STOP Fuse Keeps Blowing...
#51
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Have you tried unclipping all three brake light harnesses and inserting them one at a time to identify which one is blowing your fuse? Once you do that, you can identify which branch is causing the problem. Could be the wire, socket, bulb, etc.
Also, I would not insert a higher fuse rating than what is specified, you would be masking the problem potentially and/or creating additional damage. The fuse is a 15A for a reason.
Also, I would not insert a higher fuse rating than what is specified, you would be masking the problem potentially and/or creating additional damage. The fuse is a 15A for a reason.
#52
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Have you tried unclipping all three brake light harnesses and inserting them one at a time to identify which one is blowing your fuse? Once you do that, you can identify which branch is causing the problem. Could be the wire, socket, bulb, etc.
Also, I would not insert a higher fuse rating than what is specified, you would be masking the problem potentially and/or creating additional damage. The fuse is a 15A for a reason.
Also, I would not insert a higher fuse rating than what is specified, you would be masking the problem potentially and/or creating additional damage. The fuse is a 15A for a reason.
#53
Reginald P. Billingsly
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Can I join the club? My stop fuse is getting killed every time I press the break pedal. Doesn't matter if the car is on or off still does it, I think the harness going to the 3rd brake light is the culprit after reading this. Cause I disconnected the harness at the socket and it still blew the fuse. The odd thing is it will only blow the fuse when the trunk is closed, I think I have a short to ground in that harness. I will update later when I get home and can do some more diagnostic.
#56
Reginald P. Billingsly
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I took off the carpet/insulation whatever you wanna call it, on the driver side of the trunk and off the trunk lid itself. Un-clipped the harness on both ends and removed it from the trunk entirely. The wire insulation broke about three inches below the spot where the wire loom goes into the trunk, where is bends at some crazy angle. I just cut the wires near the clips and re-ran the wires through the looms and butt spliced the wires. Reattached the clips and viola, works great now.
#57
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Well I removed the 3rd brake light harness and I put a new fuse in, started the car and my fuse still blew and my brakes didn't light up.
But when i was driving with the blown fuse for about 10 seconds my wheels seemed to be locking on me because I lost alot of power and I down shifted and still couldnt move fast....It seemed as if I was towing something.
Any suggestions???
But when i was driving with the blown fuse for about 10 seconds my wheels seemed to be locking on me because I lost alot of power and I down shifted and still couldnt move fast....It seemed as if I was towing something.
Any suggestions???
#58
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Well I removed the 3rd brake light harness and I put a new fuse in, started the car and my fuse still blew and my brakes didn't light up.
But when i was driving with the blown fuse for about 10 seconds my wheels seemed to be locking on me because I lost alot of power and I down shifted and still couldnt move fast....It seemed as if I was towing something.
Any suggestions???
But when i was driving with the blown fuse for about 10 seconds my wheels seemed to be locking on me because I lost alot of power and I down shifted and still couldnt move fast....It seemed as if I was towing something.
Any suggestions???
#60
Grasshopper
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I pulled the carpeting out of my trunk to get a good look at how the brake lights are wired.
This should help narrow down why the STOP fuse keeps blowing.
First thing I would do is disconnect the main rear wire harness.
If the fuse doesn't blow with this harness disconnected, then you know for sure its in the rear somewhere.
Reconnect the main wire harness that you disconnected above.
Next thing to do is disconnect the harness for the 3rd brake light (this is on the driver's side).
If the fuse doesn't blow, then you know its somewhere in the wiring leading up to the 3rd brake light.
If the fuse does blow, then look at where the brake light wires are spliced together.
You'll see them wrapped with electrical tape.
After removing the electrical tape you'll see that the wires are crimped together.
You will need to cut the wires up against the crimp so you can separate each wire.
Simply connect one wire at a time to the "incoming" wire coming from the main wire harness.
Once you find out which wire causes your fuse to blow, follow that wire and check for any exposed copper wire.
Obviously, since you had to remove the crimp, use a butt-splice connector to connect the wires to each other again.
Now yes, you can separate the wires and check continuity with a meter instead of testing each wire until one blows the fuse.
This was intended for someone with little to no electrical skills and doesn't know how to use a meter.
Hope this helps!
This should help narrow down why the STOP fuse keeps blowing.
First thing I would do is disconnect the main rear wire harness.
If the fuse doesn't blow with this harness disconnected, then you know for sure its in the rear somewhere.
Reconnect the main wire harness that you disconnected above.
Next thing to do is disconnect the harness for the 3rd brake light (this is on the driver's side).
If the fuse doesn't blow, then you know its somewhere in the wiring leading up to the 3rd brake light.
If the fuse does blow, then look at where the brake light wires are spliced together.
You'll see them wrapped with electrical tape.
After removing the electrical tape you'll see that the wires are crimped together.
You will need to cut the wires up against the crimp so you can separate each wire.
Simply connect one wire at a time to the "incoming" wire coming from the main wire harness.
Once you find out which wire causes your fuse to blow, follow that wire and check for any exposed copper wire.
Obviously, since you had to remove the crimp, use a butt-splice connector to connect the wires to each other again.
Now yes, you can separate the wires and check continuity with a meter instead of testing each wire until one blows the fuse.
This was intended for someone with little to no electrical skills and doesn't know how to use a meter.
Hope this helps!
Last edited by Jon316G; 05-26-2009 at 02:28 AM.
#61
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Jon I just followed your guide and I disconnected the main rear connector and put a new fuse in and the fuse blew. Car wasn't started, but turn the key to the acc and still blew.
So I guess my problem is not the rear wiring. Any other suggestions before I have to take it to the stealerships??
So I guess my problem is not the rear wiring. Any other suggestions before I have to take it to the stealerships??
#63
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Yes I put the key to the ACC and I can wait forever and the fuse will not blow until I hold the brake pedal for at least 1-2 seconds. Same thing happens when the car is running. Fuse won't blow until the brake pedal is depressed for about 1-2seconds, than lights(abs/tsc) go on meaning fuse blew.
I think one of my ABS speed sensors is broken or damaged. im going to take it to my friend he's a mechanic and going to check the sensors.
But thank you for the guide Jon, it was a very nice write up.
I think one of my ABS speed sensors is broken or damaged. im going to take it to my friend he's a mechanic and going to check the sensors.
But thank you for the guide Jon, it was a very nice write up.
#64
Grasshopper
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The ACC (fuse, switch, or relay) and the STOP fuse is not on the same circuit.
You do not need to have the key on ACC to complete this particular circuit.
Go out to your car and press on the brake pedal without inserting your key.
I bet the lights turn on
This is why I questioned if the fuse blows when you turn to ACC or did it just blow when you inserted the new fuse.
#65
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You should look closer at the diagram....
The ACC (fuse, switch, or relay) and the STOP fuse is not on the same circuit.
You do not need to have the key on ACC to complete this particular circuit.
Go out to your car and press on the brake pedal without inserting your key.
I bet the lights turn on
This is why I questioned if the fuse blows when you turn to ACC or did it just blow when you inserted the new fuse.
The ACC (fuse, switch, or relay) and the STOP fuse is not on the same circuit.
You do not need to have the key on ACC to complete this particular circuit.
Go out to your car and press on the brake pedal without inserting your key.
I bet the lights turn on
This is why I questioned if the fuse blows when you turn to ACC or did it just blow when you inserted the new fuse.
#66
Grasshopper
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Lights will come on without the key in (I just ran out to my car to verify).
So the fuse probably just blew again.
Another quick thing to eliminate would be the switch itself (on the brake pedal).
There are 4 wires running into the switch.
I took my switch apart before (which is a PITA) and there were two springs inside.
If one of them came loose and is shorting across the terminals inside, that could do it.
If you have local friend that has an 8, try swapping with his switch.
Its at least something easy to eliminate.
BTW... the switch turns clock-wise to release from the bracket.
So the fuse probably just blew again.
Another quick thing to eliminate would be the switch itself (on the brake pedal).
There are 4 wires running into the switch.
I took my switch apart before (which is a PITA) and there were two springs inside.
If one of them came loose and is shorting across the terminals inside, that could do it.
If you have local friend that has an 8, try swapping with his switch.
Its at least something easy to eliminate.
BTW... the switch turns clock-wise to release from the bracket.
#67
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Lights will come on without the key in (I just ran out to my car to verify).
So the fuse probably just blew again.
Another quick thing to eliminate would be the switch itself (on the brake pedal).
There are 4 wires running into the switch.
I took my switch apart before (which is a PITA) and there were two springs inside.
If one of them came loose and is shorting across the terminals inside, that could do it.
If you have local friend that has an 8, try swapping with his switch.
Its at least something easy to eliminate.
BTW... the switch turns clock-wise to release from the bracket.
So the fuse probably just blew again.
Another quick thing to eliminate would be the switch itself (on the brake pedal).
There are 4 wires running into the switch.
I took my switch apart before (which is a PITA) and there were two springs inside.
If one of them came loose and is shorting across the terminals inside, that could do it.
If you have local friend that has an 8, try swapping with his switch.
Its at least something easy to eliminate.
BTW... the switch turns clock-wise to release from the bracket.
Right now I just checked if the fuse was blowing from my 2 front speed sensors. Mikko said his problem was the left front speed sensor.
So I jacked up the front end, removed both speed sensors. Turn on the key first with NO fuse and I noticed the ABS/TSC lights were automatically on.
So I turned off the car, put a new 15A fuse in, put the key into ACC, held the brake for maybe 1 second and boom goes the fuse.
Meaning the problem cannot be my 2 front speed sensors. Problem is elsewhere.
Should I check the Rear speed sensors aswell?
Last edited by szym0n; 05-26-2009 at 03:16 PM.
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#71
I don't see how the speed sensors can blow that fuse since they wire into the DSC Control Module.
Attachment 139394
Attachment 139394
Anyway... when i disconnect the abs sensor from the front left wheel hub, -> the fuse does't blow, and when i connect it back to the wheel hub -> the fuse burns at the moment i put ACC on.
I may be wrong, i hope not. We'll see it tomorrow when i get the car back from the service.
#72
Grasshopper
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Looking at the electrical diagram I posted above, how does the STOP fuse blow with the speed sensor instead of the DSC fuses that sends electricity to the DSC module?
I'm not attacking what you're saying, I just wouldn't expect the speed sensors to blow the STOP fuse.
Last edited by Jon316G; 05-27-2009 at 02:34 PM.
#73
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I got my problem fixed.. Gave the car to my buddy, he took it over night look at the wiring all over the car and noticed the wires were melting all over the places which was causing a shortage. Fixed the prob and no more lights for me =) ty everyone for trying to help me troubleshoot.
#75
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Some wires were melted under the steering wheel, some more under the plastic along the side, and he said some more were melted in the tail lights where the two wires are crimped together.