FIXED>> See below.

2004 96,500 miles manual GT.
Picked up this car last weekend with a "blown" engine. Somehow the mechanic diagnosed this with a dead battery........

I put a new Optima on it and eventually got it to start with the deflooding procedures. It ran for an hour in my parking spot with a slight random hesitation. I even launched it up my driveway and it seem to have plenty of power for that short run during this time.

The last couple days I've been working on cleaning it up. It will start right up and idle perfectly smooth for a couple of minutes then die suddenly without stumbling. At that point it either won't start or misses badly and won't stay running.

I looked over the records that are available and have ordered coils, plugs, and wires as the coils and wires are original. I pulled the converter and it looked very good visually. I also pulled the MAF and cleaned it.

I am leaning towards the fuel pump being bad as I've had two prior non rotary cars do exactly the same, but I don't have any way to test. I guessing also the fuel filters never been changed either.

Thanks, any suggestions on something I'm missing is appreciated.

 

our fuel filter is a "sock" in the tank. clean the ess and do the 20 brake pedal stomp. if you dont know what these are use the search function.

 

Fuel filter is a filter integrated into the fuel pump...there is a sock strainer as well...

The easy thing would be to check the fuel pressure....the pump is a bit of a PIA to take out just to diagnose a problem you haven't figured out

 

Ran car to get it up on ramps in the garage no problems. Stalled and quit 2 minutes in the process as usual.

ESS cleaned, wasn't dirty but had some metal shavings on the end. 20 brake stomp performed, needle swept as required.

No Bueno.. Guess I'll find someway to diagnose the fuel pump with whats available. I don't really want to fill up the tank for diagnosis to find I have to drain it again.

 

how much gas is in the tank? you dont have to drain it to check fuel pressure or swap the pump

 

Somewhere around 1/4 to 1/3.
I think I'll run a hose to a container like the service manual drain procedure and see if it stops in two minutes.

 

hooking up a fuel pressure gauge is easy and will most likely give you better info

 

The only one I have works with a schrader valve type fitting. The dealership is about 15 miles away, and I don't trust them not to sell me a bill of goods.

 

Update:
Got to where it wouldn't start at all for me to move it around.
Had several codes including a lean and misfire code.
Last night changed the fuel pump just because it was the original as a precaution. Almost no fuel was in the line when I disconnected at the engine or fuel pump. It did not fix the problem however.

This morning got up early and change all the coils, wires, and plugs. The coils and wires where all original and what looked like recent plugs where all fouled up. The coils ALL had the white spot on the back that seem to indicate failure. I am gussing that they operated just enough to get the car running when I first started working on it.

I took it for a brisk 12 mile drive. I am gonna love this car.....

Next plans are to change all the fluids and add a bunch of gauges tastefully placed for vacuum, fuel pressure, oil pressure, and whatever else to diagnose on the fly.