Starting Issues? START HERE.
 

Alright, so to follow in line with my “Misfire Issues” thread, I am creating this one for “Starting Issues”. There have been and still are many threads being created because people are having issues starting their vehicle. Instead of telling most people to just Search, I figured this method would help ease down the amount of threads being created.

This thread will follow the same guideline as my last one - I will post possible issues, and possible ways to fix those particular issues. Also, again, if anyone has anything they would like me to Add or Edit, please just comment below or PM me and I will get on it. I am making up this thread fairly quickly, and will most likely miss a few things.

Anyways, lets get started. For all you suffering from hard or long starts, read the following information to attempt to diagnose / fix your starting issue. I will include DIY’s on as many topics as possible.

Issue #1: Bad Connections on Battery
It is amazing how easy it is to get bad connections and never really think of it. You can get a bad connection on your battery from loose ends, corrosion, or wrecked ends. To check if they are loose, simply wiggle remove the battery cover and try to wiggle the connections. If you can, they are loose. Also, visibly inspect them for corrosion (Generally white or even a greenish color of dust-like material built up on the connections). To add, visibly inspect them for damage, such as cracked, wires loose/detached from end, etc.

Solution #1: Tighten, Clean, Repair and Replace
If your connections are loose, tighten them. Easy as that. But, before doing this, I would still recommend taking them off anyways and cleaning them with a wire brush. If you have corrosion on the ends, take them off and clean them thoroughly with a wire brush, on the terminal (Part on battery) itself, and also on the connection itself (Part that goes onto battery). Be careful though, as that white/green/blue build-up you may see is battery acid. A little bit of baking soda/water will help neutralize it so you can safely clean it.

If you find that they are in bad condition, wires are loose on the ends (Or off), then replace the ends.

Links (DIY’s):
To clean the battery posts, click the link below:
http://www.howtocleanstuff.net/how-t...ery-terminals/

To clean and replace ends, click this link:
http://www.doityourself.com/stry/car...ry-terminals#b

Problem #2: Bad Battery
Batteries don’t last forever, but they should last a few good years. If by chance your battery has run its life cycle (Or faulty for some reason), it is time to make sure that it is really dead. Pretty easy to do - Just take a multimeter and test the battery to make sure it has around 14-14.3 volts (Link / DIY below). This will tell you that your battery may be dead, or it could be telling you that your alternator is not producing the required amount of charge.

Solution #2: Change the Battery
If your battery is bad, simply buy another one and swap it out.

Links (DIY’s):
To check the battery for voltage, click the link below:
http://www.ehow.com/video_2319935_test-car-battery-multimeter.html
To replace the battery, click the link below:
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tech-garage-22/their-diy-battery-change-193195/

Problem #3: Old / Bad Starter
Your starter may be not be the updated version, or it could not be functioning anymore as it should be. This could be because the starter motor is going too slow to start up the engine. It is hard to test the starter, so I really have no insight on this unfortunately (Anyone have idea’s here?) I will include a link below to test the starter motor, but I cannot include a DIY on removing the starter, as I could not find one.

I will include a link below in which Brettus here demonstrates the old starter and the updated starters, via video. Check them out in the Links section below.

Solution #3: Replace
If your starter is the old version (Go to the dealership to get this checked out), then you will want to upgrade to the newer starter. It will crank at faster RPMs and be stronger in general. If you already have the upgraded starter, it may need replacing. Going to the dealership to check the starter motor would be a great start if you aren’t very “handy” with cars.

Links (DIY’s):
To see the videos of bad-to-upgraded starter, click this link:
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-trouble-shooting-95/hard-starting-suspect-your-starter-motor-check-out-207244/

To test the starter motor, click here:
http://www.carbasics.co.uk/how_to_te...rter_motor.htm

Problem #4: Bad Alternator
If you have a bad alternator, and it is not properly charging your battery, then starting it will be quite the task. Actually, it won’t happen. You may also notice that while driving the car is not running or staying running properly. You can check the voltage output in two ways - Check your battery to see what kind of voltage it is getting with the multimeter (DIY in Problem #2’s Links), and you can also check the alternator itself, which is the better idea of the two. I will include a DIY on how to do this below.

Solution #4: Replace
If your alternator is bad, the only real option you have is to replace it. You could get it rebuilt, but generally replacing it can be just as cheap. Go to a dealership or buy your own and install it. You can replace it on your own as well, but if you are not good with car’s, taking it to the dealership may be the best option.

Links (DIY’s):
To test the alternator, click the following links:
http://www.carbasics.co.uk/how_to_te...rter_motor.htm

Or


To replace the alternator yourself, click the link below:
http://www.ehow.com/how_2079783_repl...lternator.html

Or, for a description with pictures, click this link:
http://www.instructables.com/id/How-...An-Alternator/

Problem #5: Low Compression
Thats right! If your car is having Hot Start issues, whereas it is very hard to start when the engine is hot, you may be suffering from bad compression on one or both of the rotors. This really is the worst case scenario, but it is just as possible. The only real way to test for compression is to take it to the dealership and get a compression test done by them. They will tell you if you in fact are suffering from low compression.

Solution #5: Repair or Replace
Well, you have bad compression. Now you can rebuild the motor, buy a new one, or sell the car (Preferably fix it of course ;) ). Those really are your only options when it comes down to low compression, so if you are a sufferer of this, good luck and have fun!

Links:
To see and hear what low compression may sound like when trying to start, click this link:

Problem/ IDEA #6: Plugs/Wires/Coils, and Catalytic Conveter
Now this one is a touchy subject IMO. Let me start by saying that if your CAT is gone/clogged, then you may have damaged your coils/plugs. Although this doesn’t directly relate to bad starting issues, if your plugs aren’t sparking, then your car isn’t starting! Click on the link in the Links section below, and read “Problem #1, Solution #1, the Links underneath it, as well as read the “Catalytic Converter” section and it’s links.

Solution #6: Gut, Replace, Etc.
Like I said, this one is touchy, but follow the Link below to help check over and replace the plugs, coils, wires, and Cat if necessary.

Links (DIY’s)
Please click the link below and read “Problem #1” and its sections, as well as the “Cat” section:
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tech-garage-22/suffering-misfire-start-here-222280/

Problem #7: Fuel Pump
When your fuel pump is on its way out, you can experience very hard starts. What I have done for this little section (as I am in a bit of a rush), is including a little blurp that RIWWP that had posted in a thread elsewhere:

"
Typically hard hot starts when cold starts are fine can be traced to either engine compression loss or fuel pump failure.

With compression loss, it is exactly what you noted, the housings expand more than the rotors when hot, which creates a bigger gap between the seals and the housing making compression plummet.

With a fuel pump failure, the fuel pump is too hot to pump, either partially or completely.


However, the very big difference between these two failure methods is more in how the engine shuts off and how soon you can re-fire it.

It's typically the fuel pump if:
- The engine shuts of by itself while running
- The shut off is abrupt with no RPM droop
- The shut off is usually under higher fuel demand points
- It is impossible to immediately refire, usually waiting about 20 minutes lets it fire right up

It's typically the engine compression if:
- The engine is shut off by the driver
- or if the engine shuts off by itself, it shuts off from idle with a slow drooping RPM loss until it stalls
- It is possible to get it refired within the next 5 minutes or so, even if with great difficulty
"

Fuel Pump Solution:
Please read above and diagnose; I will try getting some links and what not up here sooner than later.


Alright, so for now that is it folks. This was written up much quicker than my “Misfire” thread, but none the less I am hoping it will serve its purpose as a solid starting point for people who are having issues starting their vehicle. The Coils, Plugs, Wires and Cat section are merely things to check over, FYI.

If any of the vets or anyone in general have anything that I should be adding, removing, or editing, please just comment below and I will do so as necessary.

I'm in a rush, but on quick glance, it's looking good! Glad you have the time to make these sort of threads ;)

Prob #5: hot starts- Not all compression issues have hot start issues. Could also be rough idle, bad mpg's, power issues, etc. The only way to test for compression is with a Rotary specific compression tool. People can purchase one. There are even members on this site that rent them out (NYCGPS for one).

Good start Fungster!

Good thread, I only hope that new members find their way in this post rather than other threads.

i have been having some problems with starting up(stutters kinda but always starts) and never really noticed a loss in power untill i lost to my friends tc. i have noticed 1st gear and 2nd gear are pretty slow. i beat his tc off the line but then he flew past me once i hit 2nd gear. so i am considering getting new ignotion coils but i dont want to take it to the dealership and get ripped of for new coils if thats not the problem. it is an 07' with 26k miles. how many coils are there, 4?

yes, there are 4 coils.
Please, don't come into a thread and talk/ cry about loosing in a drag race. Especially if it's street racing...

Might want to add that a faulty coolant seal can cause these symptoms as well. My latest failure was due to a faulty coolant seal that would leak into the combustion chamber when the engine cooled down. As a result, when you went to start it again, it would be a hard start and rough idle until it started to warm up.

well i havent been having a rough idle or anything just stutters on the startup then its fine. are the coils something i would be able to change on my own? because this one guy said he changed them himself in 25 mins and saved like $275 from having the dealership do it.

Great thread and thanks for taking the time to write it,
Here are a couple of things I would add.

Issue 1: after cleaning the battery terminals you should add a little bit of silicone grease to help ensure a good connection and prevent future corrosion.

Issue 2: If you make a lot of short journeys in your car the battery may not have enough time to recharge using a battery charger at home, you can trickle charge the battery overnight which will usually give new life to the battery.

search the diy section.
Why must you always ask to be spoon fed? There are even links in the original post to help you :wallbash:

I will be sure to add this in, thanks 9k

I will look more into this and add what I can for sure

Exactly.... :banghead:

Bump. Lots of "Hard Start" threads lol

Hey 9k mentioned coolant seal. I'm thinking I'm having this problem. I get alot of white smoke coming from the exhuast at a cool start up and yes hard to start. Which seal would this be? I've even noticed it on the oil dip stick. I added about 4 ounces of water to the tank at about 300 miles.

^ wrong thread to post your concern. Here, read through this instead... Rotor Misfire @ engine start only.

Have a shop do a coolant system pressure test, you can also get your oil analyzed for that gunk mixed in the dipstick.

Ok I really like that you did this, I'm having problems with my car starting, but none of these sound like the problem. My car will start no problem hot. It only has problems in cold weather I'm in OK and we have had some 19 degree nights and when I go to start my car for work it will crank but not start? But when it was up to around 40 degrees my car starts right up. I'm completely confused on what to do. Mazda replaced all main parts on my motor 2 months ago because of bad compression and I redline it to keep carbon from building up. I really need some help on this, winter is almost here and I need my car running.

what exactly did the dealer replace, 2 months ago?

They replaced apex seals and rotors.

According to this thread, what have you checked off of the list, in order to diagnose (number's 1-6)?

Yes I've checked everything off. Mazda told me my starter was fine. I have an 04 AT. And the car runs perfect when it runs. Just won't start in cold weather. I do have straight pipes and I've wondered if having no mufflers would cause not enough back pressure on the engine, and not holding warm air in the cat for it to warm up?

Update: I called Mazda and they told me the car is flooded. He said it could be due to a bad spark plug or coils. He gave me free towing, and the deflooding is covered till 100,000 miles. Looks good for me now. Should get the car back today.

Alright guys well i invested in me a diagnostic tool scan my pcm having this rx8 for 2years im tired of going up to auto zone, after running it i got codes: P2070, P0302, P0420, and p0704. After doing lots of research going in n out of threads i see Intake Manifold tuning valve stuck open bank 1 is what is malfunctioning so ima pull that and clean it following a thread i found. I also found from code P0302 that i have a Cylinder 2 Misfire Detected, i believe that is a result of me having a bad ignition #2 coil is what the tool is saying, to cure this i will buy the BHR ignition kit, yes overkill but ive been eying it on here for a while that that Charles guy is selling because i been needing to change my wires and coils anyways, it seems to make a big difference so i will invest in it, if anyone have any info or suggestions on it speak up im still learning so im ALL EARS! Based off what ive said if u got anything else to help out it'll b greatly appreciated seeing that i cant drive for 10 to 15 miles without it killin on me and fouling the plugs and having a etremly hard time cranking up! Wish me luck my 8 is too clean to b sittin in the garrage :pat:

Mod Notice to Poster:
13. Multiple posts about the same thing across many forums are considered "spamming" the site and may result in the poster being banned. (alnielsen)

Good luck ( chillinrard )

how did you specifically identify the issue being the coolant sealant?

Remove spark plugs, and perform a pressure test on the cooling system.

When you pressurize the cooling system, it will force coolant past the damaged seal, hopefully into the rotor housing. You will see the cooling system pressure gauge on the tool lose pressure. If you're really lucky, that coolant makes its way to the spark plug.

You might want to slowly turn the engine by hand on the main pulley, to see if the coolant is building up in one of the combustion chambers of the rotor.

BC.

This thread should be a sticky !

I don't seem to be loosing any coolant or getting any white smoke from the exhaust, could this still be happening?

If you're not losing coolant, then most likely not, unless there's an air bubble in the system that hasn't burped out yet to lower the coolant level.

Remember that compression is lost in 4 different directions in a rotor housing:

past weak apex seals into the next combustion chamber
past weak side seals across all combustion chambers
past weak/damaged coolant seals into the cooling system
through damage to the rotor housing, like around the spark plug hole to the atmosphere

A misfire can be caused by any of those, or through a weak ignition system that doesn't properly ignite the fuel mixture, or an overly rich mixture that won't burn, or an overly lean mixture that won't burn.

What any of this has to do with the original thread, I'm not quite sure.

BC.

hi just been given this really useful link and after reading some of the problems I have just tested my battery and it says its 12 volts, is this ok as it says above it should be 14? If I get a bigger battery will it run and start better?

Thanks

Sophie

12 volts is ok with engine off - when engine is running it should read 14volts once engine has warmed up .

ok thanks will try when running tomorrow as its 2am here and my neighbors wont be very happy!!

thanks

Sophie

So after replacing fuel pump, starter, plugs the only thing left to do is get a compression test before I spend money on anything else. What are my choices in case I need a new engine? I don't have a warranty since my car is "technically" a rebuilt title so getting a new free engine from Mazda is highly unlikely to happen. Can the engine be rebuilt using upgraded components? And can this be done by any non rotary specialized mechanic?

ok so what if my car wont click over,, my security key flashes I had my battery off for about a week since I was purchasing a red top when I went to start it no click no radio no a/c function lights are ok, i checked fuse but double checking them tomo, My car dont make no starter noise or no click at all battery is charged up im hoping is a fuse,

Thanks for all the great advice.. i will probably make a new thread though.

With the purpose being?.... :dunno:

I am a little late but also want to add that a dirty crank sensor can cause slower than normal starts.

MY starting experiences..

If the key is the problem, your radio and and cabin fans should work even when the security lights are flashing in the acc or on position. Must be a fuse.

Also known as "Eccentric Shaft Position Plate"*(ESS).

ok im having problems with my Rx8 i bought it this month, it has 81K miles and its a 2004. Everything else is fine but it takes a while to turn on i took it to the dealership that i bought it from(a nissian) and they THINK its the fuel pump so im trying to see what it is. i dont want to take it in and then mazda charges me for just looking at it. so what do you think the problem is???

Ask for a compression check before you spend money on anything else.

Wouldn't it be great if there was a thread with all sorts of information in it.
You know, something that puts together a whole bunch of information about common problems with used RX-8's, or tips for a new owner to look at when they are thinking about, or just recently bought a used RX-8, but they are having a bit of difficulty with their recent purchase?

Or maybe, even a thread about how to diagnose common starting issues?
Wouldn't it be great if that thread even had videos in it with examples of an RX-8 with differences in the ignition and starting system, and the video showing the changes that all of those made to how easily (or not) the engine starts after the repair?

Yeah, wouldn't a couple of threads like that be something a new owner could really find useful?

Too bad those don't exist.

BC.

I agree with you there BC. Someone should really put something like that together so it would make it easier to find information on specific issues.
At least we do have threads like this one that don't actually have any useful information in them but you can go in and post about your problems and maybe find someone who has a clue.

:suspect:





I think Bladecutter was being sarcastic, since one of the threads he referenced is this one.

as was I, derp.

very nice thread.

BUMP for the COLD WEATHER HARD-STARTS!!!

Very helpful thread, thank you.

Very good thread.. Having missfire problems myself, Only at start up, the car sounds like is bugged out, rpm's go up and down, shaky, engine light flashes! I changed coils and plugs about 4 month ago, it stopped doing that for a while, now is back at it again. Once it warms up, runs perfect.

Hello please I REALLY NEED HELP.... i have an rx8 126k original motor (engine), when i start my car theirs no lights on... exept for battery. and engine check.. other than that when I start my car it takes 4-5 seconds when i twist to the ignition.. like if its having trouble starting??? my second question is when i drive the car for atleast 10 mins... i come to a complete stop , or red light, my rpm slowly goes down from 1rpm too 0... and shuts off automactly .. like if the engine is weak or something is clauged... if i dont keep my pedal on teh gas... to redv it atleast above 1rpm.. it will shut off.. and im tired of keeping it liek that.. does anyone know this problem???

SEARCH! Your answer is all over the site

Flashing CEL is always a misfire - Please see the thread in my signature regarding misfires to begin determining the cause of your problems. Getting the code read would be a good place to start. Also, did you replace the coils and plugs/wires at the same time? You must always do them all at the same time.

One thing to consider is getting the BHR Ignition kit, best upgrade I have done by far. Please move convo to misfire thread if you haven't yet

Have you checked what CEL (engine light) is up? Get that code read to start with, diagnostics go from there


@Cliffjumper126 - I (along with many others) have no issues helping people with their problems, as I have been helped in the past. Pointing people in the right direction is great as well, but doing so in a constructive and appropriate/helpful/kind way is the way to do it