t.swain

I've been searching around and can't find specifics to my problem.
I've got a 2004 with 77000 miles. Less than 15k on the new engine.
Just yesterday after starting my car, I noticed that my car does not want to go into hear easily. Eventually I can get it to go in, reverse is a nightmare though. However, everything shifts fine while I'm driving. 1st-6th. It's just leaving the neutral position.
I think the resistance/pressure when pushing the clutch in has lessened but it may just be in my head.

Anybody know what's up?

t.swain

Oh and once everything is warmed up, it does seem to leave the neutral position a little easier. But not as easily as it should.

LittleZ360

Stop driving it first off.
First check your clutch pedal, it may have broken/bent at the base (this is common on the 1st gens)
I say that, because say you noticed tension loss in the clutch. It can snap on you while driving on the highway, then your in a scary situation...

Being said, if not clutch related (pedal,cylinder, etc) then I'd say your synchro(s) failing. In which case it won't be long until you can't get into gear at all. This usually shows dominantly in R and 1st.
You can try rocking the car a little where it sits, then try again getting into gear.

Sorry to say, but your story is just like mine. Ended up biting down and bought a new tranny.
In my case I bought the car used and it had always been clunky getting into gear compared to other 8s I've driven. It seemed to get worse even tho I babied the tranny.
Then the first and reverse crap started up.

Good luck.

LittleZ360

Also... A synchro saver is a good investment to accompany your new tranny. I think the previous owner of my 8 really slammed through the gears...
I never did, but its known that as nice as our gearboxes are, they don't like do be manhandled.

Loki

iTrader: (1)

Basics first: when was the last time the trans fluid was changed? What fluid is in there now?

t.swain

Thanks for all the advice. I'm thinking it might be the clutch because when I push on it, it makes a squeaking noise and sounds like its damn near about to snap.
I've stopped driving the car. But I'm on leave and have to drive from Michigan to Virginia on June 6th. So I'm kind of limited on time.
Why is it that it would shift just fine while driving if something is failing/ has failed already?
Haven't been to where my cars is in a few days so I haven't actually been able to look at anything.
Can we start with trying to diagnose the clutch?
If its a hydraulic problem, how do I start to check for that. Where do I check the fluids for that? Etc
Never messed around with the clutch on this car before.

Again, thanks for all the help.

t.swain

That sounds like a new clutch and transmission. Awesome.

When the car is off, I can shift into every gear including reverse flawlessly. Does this symbolize the same problem or could that mean it has something to do with the clutch hydraulics?

t.swain

Well, while driving to the mechanics, I hear a snap and then my clutch won't go in to the floor because when I push it it like moves off to the right near the break pedal.
Any idea what snapped? I'm about to crawl in there and look around.

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

The clutch pedal assembly has snapped as they are inclined to do. Lots of thread coverage on that subject. Also mentioned in this thread in post #3, #6, and #11.

t.swain

Is this a DIY kinda fix or should I get my car towed to the shop? And what's an average price I should be looking at to get this fixed?
I talked to a mechanic and they mentioned having to remove the tranmission to fix this which is going to cost me a hell of a lot more money.

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

Slow down a bit first and take a breath...

A clutch pedal assembly failure would, at most, cost you about $200. That is if you purchase a brand new clutch pedal assembly at retail cost from a dealer. You can do a ton cheaper by removing the pedal and having a shop just weld it back up at the right points.

Removing the old is literally 2 electrical clips and 3 10mm nuts (or 12mm?). It's a pain to do in the footwell, but the angles involved are the only problem involved here.

Since you know your clutch pedal assembly is broken (because of the sideways movement; no in-tact pedal will flex to the side), replace or weld the pedal assembly first.

Yes, you MIGHT have transmission damage from the pedal failure. Yes you MIGHT have other damage to a bearing or something as previously discussed. But you simply can not even confirm that until you replace the clutch pedal assembly. If you replace transmission/clutch parts and not your pedal, you still have a broken pedal!


The cheapest option is to just remove the pedal and take it to a shop with welding equipment. Have the pedal welded back together. Re-install. Probably $40 or less.

Until you do that, don't start worrying about other items.

200.mph

iTrader: (9)

mine was half broke when i welded it and has held up over 20k miles

LittleZ360

Wow, yeah I tried warning you in the 3rd post on this thread... I wish u woulda taken my advice in that post (stop driving it).
I'm just glad you or your car didnt get hurt.
You dodged a bullet.

2nd, the pedal assembly isn't too expensive.
3rd, a GOOD weld will do the job, but be cautious about it. I would check the weld every so often and make sure it doesn't start to give, u might not be as lucky if it snaps on you again.

southdakotadr8

I too have had scyncro problems in my 2004 80,000 miles. if i'm in neutral it's hard to get the car into 1st or reverse at times. but if i put it in 3rd, then try to go back to 1st it goes right in. same way with reverse, i put it in 4th or 6th it goes right in afterward.( holding the clutch down the entire time ) it just moves the gears slightly, allowing me to put it in the desired gear without hastle. i hate not being able to get it in gear at the light the first time... not exactly a fix but it helps when it starts going out