SERIOUS steering problem
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SERIOUS steering problem
Guys: I'm in need of help here. I have a 2006 Mazda RX8 whose power steering light came on 1 1/2 weeks ago. I took it to the dlr where it's been living since: Dlr put new connectors in and tech drove it home: light came on again. Dlr says it could require new computer power steering module and/or new rack & pinion or BOTH. Ideas anyone? I'm looking at $2K plus and I'm sick.
Thanks.
Thanks.
#3
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explain, "dealer put new connectors"
do you have the part number? The Power steering harness is usually the culprit in P/S failure, it was in my case.
As MM mentioned, it's about $120 and with a little patience and some basic hand tools it can be swapped out.
Not sure I've seen anyone here have to replace an entire rack and pinion.
do you have the part number? The Power steering harness is usually the culprit in P/S failure, it was in my case.
As MM mentioned, it's about $120 and with a little patience and some basic hand tools it can be swapped out.
Not sure I've seen anyone here have to replace an entire rack and pinion.
#4
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However, I've replaced everything BUT the rack on mine and I am still having an intermittent failure.
We scoped the power, ran the diagnostic, looked at the torque sensor output and concluded that the only component left that could cause the kind of spastic self-steering that I am getting (which nearly threw me onto the highway at Firebird East on Sunday) would be the windings in the rack motor.
I have replaced ALL the wiring with a custom-built, shielded, one-piece harness and I've swapped out the EPS module and filter for known-good units.
Racks can be had at the wrecking yards for about $350.
The actual swap is pretty easy - you just un-plug it, pop the tie-rod ends from the steering knuckles, unbolt the rack and one radiator bracket and pull it out.
It will require a wheel alignment, though.
#5
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I figured you'd be the first after hearing that your posessed car was acting up again.
just turn off the P/S and drive it without the assist, you'll be BUFF in no time.
Time to start checking the local yards, good luck.
just turn off the P/S and drive it without the assist, you'll be BUFF in no time.
Time to start checking the local yards, good luck.
#6
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I did drive with no assist in one session and lemme tell ya, turn 5 (the "carousel") was no fun.
Driving what is, essentially, a high-speed "U"-turn at the edge of traction on race rubber with NO power assist on what should be a power rack tore up all the tendons in my left arm, especially my old-*** elbow.
Driving what is, essentially, a high-speed "U"-turn at the edge of traction on race rubber with NO power assist on what should be a power rack tore up all the tendons in my left arm, especially my old-*** elbow.
#7
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should I have Emilie bring the massage lotion to Vegas? She'll fix ya if you ask nice.
#10
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"I have replaced ALL the wiring with a custom-built, shielded, one-piece harness"
MM, with all the discussions about how sensitive/picky (above all other things) the harness wiring is, is it possible that this custom wiring, even if properly connected, is the source of the problem? It'd be a shame to replace the rack without at least swapping in a new OEM harness first.
MM, with all the discussions about how sensitive/picky (above all other things) the harness wiring is, is it possible that this custom wiring, even if properly connected, is the source of the problem? It'd be a shame to replace the rack without at least swapping in a new OEM harness first.
#11
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MM, with all the discussions about how sensitive/picky (above all other things) the harness wiring is, is it possible that this custom wiring, even if properly connected, is the source of the problem? It'd be a shame to replace the rack without at least swapping in a new OEM harness first.
Then soldered the wires.
Then replaced them one at a time.
Then made a completely new harness.
Then swapped the HU and filter with all three combination.
The "sensitive" wires are those for the torque sensor. We verified that it was reporting good values with the e-MDS.
No, it doesn't.
I've had it steer me off the highway at "elevated" speeds, "assist" with a banging, random opposite-lock at low speeds and get almost completely stuck at one steering angle or another at just about any speed.
Going through the "kink" (turn 2/3) at FIR East resulted in "automatic" counter-steer on several occasions, including a side-by-side at speed in full boost. I'm sure the other driver was not amused.
Last edited by MazdaManiac; 06-07-2010 at 12:59 PM.
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#15
Hmmmmmm.........
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How do you disconnect the PS? I suspect mine as a cause of some issues.
When I open the doors the dash goes bananas with the tacho, fuel gauge, etc sweeping madly. Close the door and its fine. I cant start the car (starter wont even crank) from battery but it will jump start. With the car started and idling if i turn the steering wheel the car will stall if the revs aren't kept high. With the revs up, I can turn the steering no issues but I can feel some strange things happening through the steering column.
I am going to pull the connectors and clean them, as well as the ground wire. But just for ***** and giggles I want to try and disconnect the EPS as well.
Cheers
Andrew
When I open the doors the dash goes bananas with the tacho, fuel gauge, etc sweeping madly. Close the door and its fine. I cant start the car (starter wont even crank) from battery but it will jump start. With the car started and idling if i turn the steering wheel the car will stall if the revs aren't kept high. With the revs up, I can turn the steering no issues but I can feel some strange things happening through the steering column.
I am going to pull the connectors and clean them, as well as the ground wire. But just for ***** and giggles I want to try and disconnect the EPS as well.
Cheers
Andrew
#16
Hmmmmmm.........
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Scratch it, I think its something else https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-trouble-shooting-95/grounding-shorting-issue-199354/#post3599980
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I'll probably be the first. I had mine over at Berge where Mike (the rotary master-tech over there) said he has never replaced a rack, other than one that was damaged in a wreck. Failures are almost ALWAYS the harness.
However, I've replaced everything BUT the rack on mine and I am still having an intermittent failure.
We scoped the power, ran the diagnostic, looked at the torque sensor output and concluded that the only component left that could cause the kind of spastic self-steering that I am getting (which nearly threw me onto the highway at Firebird East on Sunday) would be the windings in the rack motor.
I have replaced ALL the wiring with a custom-built, shielded, one-piece harness and I've swapped out the EPS module and filter for known-good units.
Racks can be had at the wrecking yards for about $350.
The actual swap is pretty easy - you just un-plug it, pop the tie-rod ends from the steering knuckles, unbolt the rack and one radiator bracket and pull it out.
It will require a wheel alignment, though.
However, I've replaced everything BUT the rack on mine and I am still having an intermittent failure.
We scoped the power, ran the diagnostic, looked at the torque sensor output and concluded that the only component left that could cause the kind of spastic self-steering that I am getting (which nearly threw me onto the highway at Firebird East on Sunday) would be the windings in the rack motor.
I have replaced ALL the wiring with a custom-built, shielded, one-piece harness and I've swapped out the EPS module and filter for known-good units.
Racks can be had at the wrecking yards for about $350.
The actual swap is pretty easy - you just un-plug it, pop the tie-rod ends from the steering knuckles, unbolt the rack and one radiator bracket and pull it out.
It will require a wheel alignment, though.
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