Second Opinion?
10-15-2011, 04:06 PM
#1
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Second Opinion?
Hello all,
I just paid off my car but wanted to take it into the shop for some symptoms. I just got my car back from Zwhizz mechanics (San Diego, CA) and they are recomending a new engine for 5500 (parts and labor). But do I need a new engine and is it worth it is my question?
2004 Manual Trans. 110000 miles.
SYMPTOMS:
WORK PERFORMED
New Coils, Plugs, Wires, Battery, Radiator, Resovoir,
OTHER
It seems to drive fine once I get out and about. I don't think there is a loss of power when cruising (city and highway) but whether thats from me being used to it, or it not being a problem I am no longer sure?
John Hine Mazda did a diagnostic and told me that it passed the compression test and that it may need a new water pump?
Zwhizz told me it failed the block test and needs a new engine.
I appreciate any and all input. I'm sure similar questions have been answered and I will continue to search the forums. However if you have any ideas on what I should proceed to do next, (go to another mechanic, find a lift and sponser some forum members to help fix/swap, sell it, replace the eninge, drive it off a cliff) I am open to suggestions.
Thanks again guys, I will be looking forward to your responses!
I just paid off my car but wanted to take it into the shop for some symptoms. I just got my car back from Zwhizz mechanics (San Diego, CA) and they are recomending a new engine for 5500 (parts and labor). But do I need a new engine and is it worth it is my question?
2004 Manual Trans. 110000 miles.
SYMPTOMS:
- Check Engine light P0300
- Gray smoke (on start - sometimes sweet smelling (coolant) sometimes (carbon'y)
- Takes a little longer to turn over than normal then lack of power until warmed up
- Dissapearing coolant ( I don't see it on the ground but the overflow resevoir is empty.)
WORK PERFORMED
New Coils, Plugs, Wires, Battery, Radiator, Resovoir,
OTHER
It seems to drive fine once I get out and about. I don't think there is a loss of power when cruising (city and highway) but whether thats from me being used to it, or it not being a problem I am no longer sure?
John Hine Mazda did a diagnostic and told me that it passed the compression test and that it may need a new water pump?
Zwhizz told me it failed the block test and needs a new engine.
I appreciate any and all input. I'm sure similar questions have been answered and I will continue to search the forums. However if you have any ideas on what I should proceed to do next, (go to another mechanic, find a lift and sponser some forum members to help fix/swap, sell it, replace the eninge, drive it off a cliff) I am open to suggestions.
Thanks again guys, I will be looking forward to your responses!
10-15-2011, 04:26 PM
#2
Light grey or white smoke (that smells sweet, like coolant) from the exhaust is an indication of a compromised internal coolant seal. Coolant is entering the combustion chamber and causing your rough/hard starts and the smoke your seeing. The only true and lasting fix is to rebuild the engine.
10-15-2011, 04:31 PM
#3
Sounds like a blown coolant seal to me.
A rotary engine can pass a compression test with a blown coolant seal.
I would bring it back to Mazda and ask for a coolant pressure test if your under warranty. Otherwise I would bring it to another shop to confirm it.
Good luck
A rotary engine can pass a compression test with a blown coolant seal.
I would bring it back to Mazda and ask for a coolant pressure test if your under warranty. Otherwise I would bring it to another shop to confirm it.
Good luck
10-15-2011, 04:34 PM
#4
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The thing that concerns me is the coolant consumption.
A lot of 2004's have needed engine replacements due to bad programing on teh ECUs to meet emmissions regulations. The cars have been re-programed by the dealerships and should be fine now, but if hte damage had already occured, the engine ends up needing to be replaced.
Re-manufactured engines from the dealer run about $3K plus labor $5500 would be reasonable total cost.
If you're gonna put a new water pump, don't do the OEM one. There's a vendor here in the forum's sponsor section that makes an upgraded pump. The design is much closer to the series II water pump, flows better, & is less prone to cavitation (boiling the fluid at high RPMs due to the impeller's ineficiency)
If your Coolant consumption is caused by the water pump. I'd say just replace that.
If you have trully failed the compression test, then you may need to replace the whole engine.
A lot of 2004's have needed engine replacements due to bad programing on teh ECUs to meet emmissions regulations. The cars have been re-programed by the dealerships and should be fine now, but if hte damage had already occured, the engine ends up needing to be replaced.
Re-manufactured engines from the dealer run about $3K plus labor $5500 would be reasonable total cost.
If you're gonna put a new water pump, don't do the OEM one. There's a vendor here in the forum's sponsor section that makes an upgraded pump. The design is much closer to the series II water pump, flows better, & is less prone to cavitation (boiling the fluid at high RPMs due to the impeller's ineficiency)
If your Coolant consumption is caused by the water pump. I'd say just replace that.
If you have trully failed the compression test, then you may need to replace the whole engine.
10-15-2011, 04:47 PM
#5
Its a Time Machine!
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Light grey or white smoke (that smells sweet, like coolant) from the exhaust is an indication of a compromised internal coolant seal. Coolant is entering the combustion chamber and causing your rough/hard starts and the smoke your seeing. The only true and lasting fix is to rebuild the engine.
Sounds like a blown coolant seal to me.
A rotary engine can pass a compression test with a blown coolant seal.
I would bring it back to Mazda and ask for a coolant pressure test if your under warranty. Otherwise I would bring it to another shop to confirm it.
Unfortunatly I am out of warranty, I just found some info that said the same thing about the enigne passing the test with a blown seal. Thanks!
Good luck
A rotary engine can pass a compression test with a blown coolant seal.
I would bring it back to Mazda and ask for a coolant pressure test if your under warranty. Otherwise I would bring it to another shop to confirm it.
Unfortunatly I am out of warranty, I just found some info that said the same thing about the enigne passing the test with a blown seal. Thanks!
Good luck
The thing that concerns me is the coolant consumption.
A lot of 2004's have needed engine replacements due to bad programing on teh ECUs to meet emmissions regulations. The cars have been re-programed by the dealerships and should be fine now, but if hte damage had already occured, the engine ends up needing to be replaced.
Re-manufactured engines from the dealer run about $3K plus labor $5500 would be reasonable total cost.
If you're gonna put a new water pump, don't do the OEM one. There's a vendor here in the forum's sponsor section that makes an upgraded pump. The design is much closer to the series II water pump, flows better, & is less prone to cavitation (boiling the fluid at high RPMs due to the impeller's ineficiency)
If your Coolant consumption is caused by the water pump. I'd say just replace that.
If you have trully failed the compression test, then you may need to replace the whole engine.
A lot of 2004's have needed engine replacements due to bad programing on teh ECUs to meet emmissions regulations. The cars have been re-programed by the dealerships and should be fine now, but if hte damage had already occured, the engine ends up needing to be replaced.
Re-manufactured engines from the dealer run about $3K plus labor $5500 would be reasonable total cost.
If you're gonna put a new water pump, don't do the OEM one. There's a vendor here in the forum's sponsor section that makes an upgraded pump. The design is much closer to the series II water pump, flows better, & is less prone to cavitation (boiling the fluid at high RPMs due to the impeller's ineficiency)
If your Coolant consumption is caused by the water pump. I'd say just replace that.
If you have trully failed the compression test, then you may need to replace the whole engine.
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