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Keep getting misfire issues, and I got the freeze frame data, was hoping someone could decipher it. Its a race car with no cats, new plugs wires, BHR coils, new aftermarket MAF, have a Denso on the way. Idles fine when cold, unless you push the clutch in. It drives jerky but I was chalking that up to the flywheel. I've reset the NVRAM cleaned the crank angle sensor. Running premix and OMP. The race is in like 3 days, kinda need a hail mary.
What intake are you running? If not stock, can you give stock a try?
You're in open loop due to system failure, which means the fuel trims aren't being learned. EVAP leak sounds like it should be easy to track down, a broken hose would do it.
Also that freezeframe is with the engine not warmed up and not idling while stationary which makes it inconclusive. Please post fuel trims, airflow rpm and O2 reading on a fully warmed up idle.
You have a Denso what on the way?
Have a look/adjust the clutch safety switch on the pedal as well. If it's intermittent it can mess with engine performance. There might be a few overlapping issues here.
I’m running the stock air intake system, I have a new Denso MAF on the way as a back up part for the race. Was going to try it instead of this autozone MAF.
im familiar with the intake system and looking for leaks but not the Evap system. I’ll look it up in a minute.
the misfire only happened while driving. And since it’s a race car with no thermostat it doesn’t stay at temp while driving slow on the streets. At idle it will go up too 205f before the second fan kicks on and brings it back down. It doesn’t throw any permeant codes while idling.
I have a 2004 rx8 100k miles.
I was driving it recently around town, and everything was fine for about an hour, then when trying to leave a red light, I suddenly lost all power. Wouldn't go over like 20mph, and started sounding like ****. I got it home and since then I can barely get it to start, and when it does it sounds like a lawnmower and there's quite a bit of smoke. I just changed the coil packs, spark plugs and spark plug wires today, but there is no change with my issue.
I have been trying to solve this for months… please don’t tell me coils and plugs cause anyone who want to fix a rotary knows that’s first…
I’ll attach the codes and some data from scanning it.
have replaced Maf twice, ess twice as well (parts store sold bad one first time), coils wires and plugs, baro sensor, ssv vdi solenoids, it has an air pump delete and catback exhaust, thought it was throttle body, put my buddys on, still died. Had a small oil line leak, put nice fancy lines in and fixed that. Has all new injectors, bought remanned secondary’s and had my primary sent in and rebuilt. Car has 50k on this motor, don’t tell me compression either cause that checks out, also has a new fuel pump, along with a new starter (this was a diff problem 😂😂, I used to get a hard stumble at 4500 and 6500 as those are the valves opening and it would kind of pop and sound like **** until it gets past those points, when that would happen I would get a blinking ce as I’m driving, if I pull it out of gear and let it die out and come to a stop the ce will blink after 20ish seconds, the blinking ce light as I’m driving stopped happening after injectors, still stalls when you pull it out of gear and even sometimes when you rev it in neutral and take your foot of the gas to let it come back down on its own… dies. It drives fine in gear, feel like it not all the power but drives fine, pretty damn jerky and jumpy almost like you have 2 options… half throttle and all throttle. I’ve thought vacuum leak but have checked and can’t find one, I’m thinking app (acceleration pedal position sensor) because if not throttle body that’s what feed the tb with data on the 5v scale, will also attach the pics of the app % one picture will be pedal to floor the other will be off completely, idk reading might be off, really want some help because it been 6 months of reading forums on this site and it’s still dying.
when I’m gear it never dies, definitely has power loss tho, that’s why I want to bring it in the Mazda and have the msp16 flashed on but that was for power loss and rough idle not dying out…
also I think app because when it comes to blinking ce lights, that always means misfire as far as I know, until I found a forum that say app sensors going out also cause blinking ce light and very jerky pedal.
thanks for reading and your time 02 codes are cause catback exhaust, still has front o2
12-09-2019, 02:55 PM
, I used to get a hard stumble at 4500 and 6500 as those are the valves opening and it would kind of pop and sound like **** until it gets past those points, when that would happen I would get a blinking ce as I’m driving, if I pull it out of gear and let it die out and come to a stop the ce will blink after 20ish seconds, the blinking ce light as I’m driving stopped happening after injectors, still stalls when you pull it out of gear and even sometimes when you rev it in neutral and take your foot of the gas to let it come back down on its own… dies. It drives fine in gear, feel like it not all the power but drives fine, pretty damn jerky and jumpy almost like you have 2 options… half throttle and all throttle. I’ve thought vacuum leak but have checked and can’t find one, I’m thinking app (acceleration pedal position sensor) because if not throttle body that’s what feed the tb with data on the 5v scale, will also attach the pics of the app % one picture will be pedal to floor the other will be off completely, idk reading might be off, really want some help because it been 6 months of reading forums on this site and it’s still dying.
