rebuilding my rx8 engine
10-11-2012, 06:56 AM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
rebuilding my rx8 engine
hi.i have a big problem after i opend my engine ,i changed the oil and water rings i closed it back and now is not starting,has copresion gives spark and petrol is spening but is not starting at all,from the exost is coming alot of smoke,i dont know wat else to tray i put the tester but couldn"t read eny erors.
10-11-2012, 07:43 AM
#5
FULLY SEMI AUTOMATIC
iTrader: (9)
so you opened the keg to replace coolant seals and oil control rings? did you replace apex, side, and corner seals? did you read a manual? did you mark the rotors and housings? did you spec them? how did you test compression?
10-11-2012, 08:01 AM
#9
Rockie Mountain Newbie
I would suggest deflooding it first, and see if it will start up then.
Maybe take it out for a higher speed pull start if its a manual.
How old are the ignition coils, plugs and wires?
If it still doesn't start and run, then its time for a compression test.
BC.
Maybe take it out for a higher speed pull start if its a manual.
How old are the ignition coils, plugs and wires?
If it still doesn't start and run, then its time for a compression test.
BC.
10-11-2012, 08:49 AM
#18
No there is no "timing" the OMP is controlled by Load vs RPM table and a Throttle Duty Cycle vs RPM table
This thread here -> https://www.rx8club.com/major-horsep...tments-120276/
Is an awesome read on how the OMP works.
In a nut shell the OMP is a Positive displacement pump controlled by a stepper motor.
10-11-2012, 09:27 AM
#20
Bring the car to somebody that knows what he's doing.
Best advice possible since you lack the communication skills necessary to write understandable questions with proper synthax and the engine knowledge to properly perform a rebuild.
Best advice possible since you lack the communication skills necessary to write understandable questions with proper synthax and the engine knowledge to properly perform a rebuild.
10-11-2012, 09:35 AM
#21
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
im from cyprus and here we dont have a mazda dealership i dont finde any parts here for the car and no mecanic wil tray to fix the car without parts this is the big problem!!! il burn it and trow it.thank you anyway
10-11-2012, 10:11 AM
#24
Registered
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Pacific Northwest
Posts: 16,684
Likes: 0
Received 240 Likes
on
110 Posts
night,
You have a series of problems on hand:
1) You didn't replace the seals, and that probably means that you didn't get the irons resurfaced either. This means that any compression problems that you had before the disassembly are still there. Possibly even worse because of the manual action involved in disassembly and reassembly.
2) It is entirely possible for the seals to fall out of place during reassembly if not handled properly
3) Unless you have an expensive rotary engine compression tester, you could at best get the peak compression for the highest face of each rotor, when you actually need the highest peak compression of the lowest compression face of each rotor, as well as the difference between the highest and lowest. You also need the RPM that the engine is being cranked at, so you can determine what your readings actually mean. A standard analog compression tester will not be able to do all of this.
4) Assuming everything with your engine was actually perfectly fine from reassembly, you still have a slew of problems that it could be: Missing/corroded electrical grounds, wires hooked up incorrectly, fuses blown, fuel delivery problems, e-shaft sensor misaligned, etc... You touched every single part of the air system and spark system, and nearly every part of the fueling system. All 3 systems need to be perfect to have a perfectly running engine. Something wrong with fuel or spark, even off a little bit, and you won't be starting. Something wrong with the air system and you will be able to start it but it won't stay running or will run like crap.
No offense, but I think you are out of your depth here, and it will require knowledgeable hands-on help to get it running again. Probably including another engine tear down and reassembly.
You have a series of problems on hand:
1) You didn't replace the seals, and that probably means that you didn't get the irons resurfaced either. This means that any compression problems that you had before the disassembly are still there. Possibly even worse because of the manual action involved in disassembly and reassembly.
2) It is entirely possible for the seals to fall out of place during reassembly if not handled properly
3) Unless you have an expensive rotary engine compression tester, you could at best get the peak compression for the highest face of each rotor, when you actually need the highest peak compression of the lowest compression face of each rotor, as well as the difference between the highest and lowest. You also need the RPM that the engine is being cranked at, so you can determine what your readings actually mean. A standard analog compression tester will not be able to do all of this.
4) Assuming everything with your engine was actually perfectly fine from reassembly, you still have a slew of problems that it could be: Missing/corroded electrical grounds, wires hooked up incorrectly, fuses blown, fuel delivery problems, e-shaft sensor misaligned, etc... You touched every single part of the air system and spark system, and nearly every part of the fueling system. All 3 systems need to be perfect to have a perfectly running engine. Something wrong with fuel or spark, even off a little bit, and you won't be starting. Something wrong with the air system and you will be able to start it but it won't stay running or will run like crap.
No offense, but I think you are out of your depth here, and it will require knowledgeable hands-on help to get it running again. Probably including another engine tear down and reassembly.