rebuilding my rx8 engine
hi.i have a big problem after i opend my engine ,i changed the oil and water rings i closed it back and now is not starting,has copresion gives spark and petrol is spening but is not starting at all,from the exost is coming alot of smoke,i dont know wat else to tray i put the tester but couldn"t read eny erors.
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Dewd
You had the engine a part. Hell .... it could be anything, Anything Recheck all connections, make sure plug leads are on correctly. I think you're on your own on this one. |
i check all connection but are ok .........thanks
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this tipe of engine has eny timing like a normal one?
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so you opened the keg to replace coolant seals and oil control rings? did you replace apex, side, and corner seals? did you read a manual? did you mark the rotors and housings? did you spec them? how did you test compression?
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Originally Posted by nightt23
(Post 4365132)
this tipe of engine has eny timing like a normal one?
And do you mean Ignition timing? What type of engine is it? 2004 - 2008 4 port auto 6 port MT 6 port Auto 2009 ~ |
Ooh couple other things to check.
Make sure the Baro Sensor is plugged in .. Make sure the ESS is plugged in ... Check Fuses |
Originally Posted by 200.mph
(Post 4365135)
so you opened the keg to replace coolant seals and oil control rings? did you replace apex, side, and corner seals? did you read a manual? did you mark the rotors and housings? did you spec them? how did you test compression?
So I'm just going to assume that the rebuild was done correctly. (we know what assuming does however) |
I would suggest deflooding it first, and see if it will start up then.
Maybe take it out for a higher speed pull start if its a manual. How old are the ignition coils, plugs and wires? If it still doesn't start and run, then its time for a compression test. BC. |
i did not change the apex seals and i test the compresion with a special tool for that,ofcourse i mark everything when i opened the engine
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i deflood it few time,after deflooding gives some miss fire until floods again and all the time is smoking a lot
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is a 4 port with automatic transmision
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There are so many things it could be ...
Recheck that you've installed the injectors correctly |
i have a manual for this tipe of engine but i didn"t finde nothing about ignition timing<if has one>
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6 months old
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Originally Posted by nightt23
(Post 4365168)
i have a manual for this tipe of engine but i didn"t finde nothing about ignition timing<if has one>
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is any timing between the oil metering pump and the rotors when the engine is assembled?
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Originally Posted by nightt23
(Post 4365179)
is any timing between the oil metering pump and the rotors when the engine is assembled?
No there is no "timing" the OMP is controlled by Load vs RPM table and a Throttle Duty Cycle vs RPM table This thread here -> https://www.rx8club.com/major-horsep...tments-120276/ Is an awesome read on how the OMP works. In a nut shell the OMP is a Positive displacement pump controlled by a stepper motor. |
ah ok thank you,cause in the past i had big problems with OMP was flooding the engine
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Bring the car to somebody that knows what he's doing.
Best advice possible since you lack the communication skills necessary to write understandable questions with proper synthax and the engine knowledge to properly perform a rebuild. |
im from cyprus and here we dont have a mazda dealership i dont finde any parts here for the car and no mecanic wil tray to fix the car without parts this is the big problem!!! il burn it and trow it.thank you anyway
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there's JDM-R in greece who could fix it.
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to send it thereto fix it and bring it back wil cost me more than the car.thank you all
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night,
You have a series of problems on hand: 1) You didn't replace the seals, and that probably means that you didn't get the irons resurfaced either. This means that any compression problems that you had before the disassembly are still there. Possibly even worse because of the manual action involved in disassembly and reassembly. 2) It is entirely possible for the seals to fall out of place during reassembly if not handled properly 3) Unless you have an expensive rotary engine compression tester, you could at best get the peak compression for the highest face of each rotor, when you actually need the highest peak compression of the lowest compression face of each rotor, as well as the difference between the highest and lowest. You also need the RPM that the engine is being cranked at, so you can determine what your readings actually mean. A standard analog compression tester will not be able to do all of this. 4) Assuming everything with your engine was actually perfectly fine from reassembly, you still have a slew of problems that it could be: Missing/corroded electrical grounds, wires hooked up incorrectly, fuses blown, fuel delivery problems, e-shaft sensor misaligned, etc... You touched every single part of the air system and spark system, and nearly every part of the fueling system. All 3 systems need to be perfect to have a perfectly running engine. Something wrong with fuel or spark, even off a little bit, and you won't be starting. Something wrong with the air system and you will be able to start it but it won't stay running or will run like crap. No offense, but I think you are out of your depth here, and it will require knowledgeable hands-on help to get it running again. Probably including another engine tear down and reassembly. |
tell me please wat is the perfect compression<in psi or bar>the number i mean
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