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Old 04-17-2017, 12:18 PM   #51
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Still.
Dragging.
His.
Feet.
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Old 04-17-2017, 08:20 PM   #52
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Well, this is progress... I guess.

He sent photos and said everything looks perfect. He thinks that the low compression was due to carbon. He said his warranty guy is coming back soon to... pass judgement, I guess?

This is allegedly after several (more than 2-3?) Seafoam treatments.

Honestly, I still think I'm getting taken for a ride.
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Old 04-17-2017, 10:20 PM   #53
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Well, this is progress... I guess.

He sent photos and said everything looks perfect. He thinks that the low compression was due to carbon. He said his warranty guy is coming back soon to... pass judgement, I guess?

This is allegedly after several (more than 2-3?) Seafoam treatments.

Honestly, I still think I'm getting taken for a ride.
So almost 2 months later you still "working" with them to resolve the issue? I guess you have a lot more patience than me...

Please PM me the vendor so I don't EVER buy anything from them, planning things for the future and this is NOT what I want, period.
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Old 04-17-2017, 11:03 PM   #54
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Well, this is progress... I guess.

He sent photos and said everything looks perfect. He thinks that the low compression was due to carbon.
Eiwww, is that crud in the cooling jacket considered normal ?!
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Old 04-18-2017, 08:47 AM   #55
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So almost 2 months later you still "working" with them to resolve the issue? I guess you have a lot more patience than me...

Please PM me the vendor so I don't EVER buy anything from them, planning things for the future and this is NOT what I want, period.
Yah, but what choice do I have? He has the engine.

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Eiwww, is that crud in the cooling jacket considered normal ?!
He seems to think it's normal. I find that odd since I put in only the pre-mixed FL-22 and it was only in the car for 11 months and 8500 miles.
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Old 04-18-2017, 12:14 PM   #56
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Um..... That is not normal for the coolant jackets to look like that and that is a lot of carbon build up for what 8k?


This is mine after almost 30k on a failing Mazda reman.


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Old 04-18-2017, 12:17 PM   #57
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Eiwww, is that crud in the cooling jacket considered normal ?!
Wait, you all don't put cottage cheese in your coolant?
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Old 04-18-2017, 12:18 PM   #58
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Oh and seafoam doesn't due dick to remove carbon. But like I said, I highly doubt they installed your engine in a car and ran it to properly compression test it and seafoam it.
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Old 04-18-2017, 12:27 PM   #59
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This is mine after almost 30k on a failing Mazda reman.
A blown coolant seal AND a cracked housing? I may have almost the exact same failure going on - leaking coolant into housing #2, coming out of bottom spark plug hole on a Mazda reman w/ 35k miles.

Carry on guys, don't mean to thread jack....
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Old 04-18-2017, 12:30 PM   #60
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TX

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A blown coolant seal AND a cracked housing? I may have almost the exact same failure going on - leaking coolant into housing #2, coming out of bottom spark plug hole on a Mazda reman w/ 35k miles.

Carry on guys, don't mean to thread jack....
A routine oil sample test found traces of coolant in the oil due to a failing coolant seal so I pulled it and sent it to Pineapple racing before it actually blew. The crack around the spark plug hole is very common.
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Old 04-18-2017, 01:34 PM   #61
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Okay, so what the hell is that crap in the coolant passages?

I only have these photos and the rebuilder's questionable word to go by.
It looks waxy. I would have expected it to be stained green by the FL-22.
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Old 04-18-2017, 01:38 PM   #62
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Maybe it appears earlier in the thread, but did they use any new parts, like housing or rotors?
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Old 04-18-2017, 01:43 PM   #63
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I can't find the paperwork anymore (just moved, things are scattered) but IIRC, they reused housings and rotors. The total cost including round-trip freight was about $2200.

He diagnosed the initial problem a year ago as carbon-locked side seals. Said it took some effort to get them free.
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Old 04-18-2017, 01:48 PM   #64
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Okay, so what the hell is that crap in the coolant passages?

I only have these photos and the rebuilder's questionable word to go by.
It looks waxy. I would have expected it to be stained green by the FL-22.
At least some of it looks crystalline, like minerals and/or salts.

Some of it looks like it could be grease, like waaaaaaaay too much assembly lube was used.

Whatever is going on, I agree with 9K. The gunk in the coolant passages is not normal, and that is a ton of carbon for such a new engine.

.

Last edited by Steve Dallas; 04-18-2017 at 02:09 PM.
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Old 04-18-2017, 02:05 PM   #65
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Well, if they did install the engine in a car for testing, maybe the gunk is from the components they used.

Or, maybe they just gave me the rebuilder equivalent of a wall job the first time around.
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Old 04-19-2017, 04:27 PM   #66
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This bodes well...
Foxtrot
Mike
Lima
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Old 04-19-2017, 05:10 PM   #67
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Old 04-20-2017, 07:11 AM   #68
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holyfuk man

time to let us know who to avoid man
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Old 04-20-2017, 07:20 AM   #69
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Not until the engine is back in my garage.
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Old 04-20-2017, 07:23 AM   #70
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i understand man. sorry about the shitshow you are going through. its a shame theres dirtbag vendors in such a small close knit community
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Old 04-20-2017, 06:29 PM   #71
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Looks to me like the reused housings were not even cleaned, hence the oxidation in the cooling passages. Plus, the irons were not ground prior to reuse as the seal tracks are alarmingly obvious in the photos. Even at 8K miles, there should not be so much seal tracking. For $2200, he likely simply resealed the engine, ala what they do with the Mazda remans, and that is why this engine has done no better than what Mazda would have provided.
Thanks for your input throughout this whole stupid process.

I paid him the $550 because I just want a running car again. I'm going to run it and hope it lasts long enough for me to save for an LS swap.
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Old 04-28-2017, 10:26 PM   #72
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OJ Imports can bite my shiny metal ***!

Engine delivered! Huzzah!

YRC (Omar's favored freight company) didn't treat my engine too gently. The pallet was mostly destroyed and they just sat it on top of another pallet. Also, the engine had evidently rolled into its side at some point because the oil filler neck studs, dipstick tube and engine hoist loop had suffered some.

Omar appears to have done nothing to clean it up inside or out. He was kind enough to ask me if I sent my engine to him with my flywheel attached. I did because I couldn't my flywheel nut socket after moving. Kinda wonder why he didn't think to keep track of that.

I removed my REmedy water pump and put my OEM one back on so I could keep the hoist hook installed. Removing it, the pump is encrusted with scunge that wasn't there when I shipped it out to him. I guess he must have filled it with tap water when he was testing it.

Another oddity: I removed the (almost new) coolant temp sensor before shipping but he shipped it back with one. Kind of wondering who is missing theirs now.

Any idea why the front rotor spark plug holes would be clean and dry but the rears are weeping dirty oil?

He was kind enough to put a better condition oil pan on after YRC dented the **** out of it. Come to think of it, though, I only started getting false oil level warnings after the rebuild a year ago...

There are two sets of engraved numbers below each leading spark plug hole (EF21JA020 and EF16EA530). Does anyone know if those are unique serial numbers?

Edit: More oddities...
I now have two sets of bolts for the e-shaft pulley AND the clutch.

Edit 2: Oh **** me.
I shipped the engine with two exhaust manifold studs still in the irons. The nuts had seized to the other 4 studs so those studs just came out and went into a baggie. The engine came back with 3 exhaust manifold studs in it (all on the top row). Great, now I have an extra exhaust manifold stud! Except the threads on the middle stud are fuckered and the nut won't go on without a fight. So, even if I could pull one of the other studs, I can't get a nut on this one. Anyone got any tricks for removing an exhaust manifold stud with trashed threads?

I'm beginning to wonder if this isn't actually the same engine that I sent him.


Bent oil filler neck stud and dipstick tube


Bent oil filler neck stud and dipstick tube


Pallet barely holding together.


Scunge in coolant passage


Flywheel with greasy handprint


What the hell is this crap all over the water pump?


The Mazmart REmedy water pump as it was when I pulled it before shipping.


Water pump housing with rust and scunge


Front rotor housing, nice and clean


Rear rotor housing weeping dirty oil.

Last edited by NotAPreppie; 04-29-2017 at 11:18 AM.
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Old 04-28-2017, 11:43 PM   #73
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Sorry for your loss brother, I also used yrc to ship my engine out to BHR and by the time it was actually delivered my bill literally doubled from the quote that I agreed to.
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Old 04-29-2017, 10:47 AM   #74
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I'm actually at a loss for words.

So many shortcuts, cheapness, laziness, poor customer service, wow.

Three gallons of distilled water costs < $3. WTF?!
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Old 04-29-2017, 11:33 AM   #75
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I'm actually at a loss for words.

So many shortcuts, cheapness, laziness, poor customer service, wow.

Three gallons of distilled water costs < $3. WTF?!
Yah, I'd hoped I'd feel better about this clusterfuck after a good night's sleep but I'm even more pissed than I was after struggling with that stud last night. (it's still not out)

He drug this thing out so long and at the end basically told me to pound sand. He also kept saying, "It's too bad you found this during install."

I couldn't figure out what the **** he meant until his word salad coalesced into, "You shouldn't sign for damaged goods." He was hinting that this was damage done by the freight company, YRC. Because, you know, YRC is known to unwrap engines and crossthread nuts and run with tap water.

The driver from YRC was hightailing it away from the loading dock before I could even get there from my office. I figure he probably fired the engine up as soon as the fork driver pulled the pallet off the trailer. How the hell am I supposed to go over an engine with a fine tooth comb and find these problems on a loading dock before the driver leaves?
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