Rats in my engine! Misfiring domino effect
10-28-2011, 01:32 PM
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Rats in my engine! Misfiring domino effect
Hello fellas!
So here's the scoop. I get in my 04 RX8 manual factory GT (73k mi) a couple days ago, drive it a tenth of a mile to the stoplight at the end of my street, then while coming to a stop experience a severe engine shuddering coupled with inability to rev, so I immediately turn it off. It is not cold out. Up until this point, even the night before, I was having NO issues with my engine (ran smooth as silk), normal oil level, premium gas, and absolutely no troubles starting.
Looking under the hood, I noticed some sort of rodent nest (we have rats on my street), and without digging too deeply saw that my alarm wires were chewed through. I didn't dig deeper into the engine but wouldn't be surprised if the chewing was more extensive.
Took it to the dealer yesterday- they ran diagnostics and called today telling me the following:
1) Flooded engine
2) Stone cold dead battery
3) Problem was due to engine was misfiring
4) As a result, plugs, coils, starter need to be replaced (i JUST got plugs/coils replaced 1 year ago)
5) Furthermore, the CATALYTIC CONVERTER is now burnt out and needs replacing.
Total damage ~ $3000.
As a relatively inexperienced RX8 owner, wtf is this? The tech at the Mazda dealer says to look at it as a 'domino effect' resulting from engine misfiring, but doesn't have an opinion on why it actually happened.
My question is: Does that make sense? Also do you think the rats could have chewed through some sort of wire (do rx8 plugs even have wires?) causing the misfire and subsequent $3k worth of carnage?? It is also weird that my battery is dead now because it has been showing no signs of lack of juice- maybe there is a wire short as a result of recent chewing?
If I can pin this on the rats, with any possible scenario, I may have a good argument for a comprehensive insurance claim, as I don't have $3k to pay for my baby right now
.
PS anybody know about the 100k 8 year warranty? I do fall into that category, but don't know if this would technically qualify as:
Rotary engine core
- Rotary engine and internal parts
- Internal seals and gaskets
Please help me revive her,
Yours truly.
So here's the scoop. I get in my 04 RX8 manual factory GT (73k mi) a couple days ago, drive it a tenth of a mile to the stoplight at the end of my street, then while coming to a stop experience a severe engine shuddering coupled with inability to rev, so I immediately turn it off. It is not cold out. Up until this point, even the night before, I was having NO issues with my engine (ran smooth as silk), normal oil level, premium gas, and absolutely no troubles starting.
Looking under the hood, I noticed some sort of rodent nest (we have rats on my street), and without digging too deeply saw that my alarm wires were chewed through. I didn't dig deeper into the engine but wouldn't be surprised if the chewing was more extensive.
Took it to the dealer yesterday- they ran diagnostics and called today telling me the following:
1) Flooded engine
2) Stone cold dead battery
3) Problem was due to engine was misfiring
4) As a result, plugs, coils, starter need to be replaced (i JUST got plugs/coils replaced 1 year ago)
5) Furthermore, the CATALYTIC CONVERTER is now burnt out and needs replacing.
Total damage ~ $3000.
As a relatively inexperienced RX8 owner, wtf is this? The tech at the Mazda dealer says to look at it as a 'domino effect' resulting from engine misfiring, but doesn't have an opinion on why it actually happened.
My question is: Does that make sense? Also do you think the rats could have chewed through some sort of wire (do rx8 plugs even have wires?) causing the misfire and subsequent $3k worth of carnage?? It is also weird that my battery is dead now because it has been showing no signs of lack of juice- maybe there is a wire short as a result of recent chewing?
If I can pin this on the rats, with any possible scenario, I may have a good argument for a comprehensive insurance claim, as I don't have $3k to pay for my baby right now
. PS anybody know about the 100k 8 year warranty? I do fall into that category, but don't know if this would technically qualify as:
Rotary engine core
- Rotary engine and internal parts
- Internal seals and gaskets
Please help me revive her,
Yours truly.
Last edited by darkrider007; 10-28-2011 at 01:38 PM.
10-28-2011, 01:43 PM
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domino effect does happen, misfires can cause cats to clog. yes we do have spark plug wires. alooding can occur with a weak battery and or with the old style starter. did you get a flashing cel? that usually means misfire.
as far as the engine core waranty you could call mazda with your vin. its based on when the car was first sold
as far as the engine core waranty you could call mazda with your vin. its based on when the car was first sold
10-28-2011, 01:54 PM
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It is an old-style starter. Unfortunately there was no CEL, but I did shut it off very quickly when it happened. Tech said it was definitely some sort of misfiring.
Any ideas on if I have an insurance argument? I don't have a good enough understanding to know whether chewed-through wires could cause a misfire. I am hoping that it could.
Any ideas on if I have an insurance argument? I don't have a good enough understanding to know whether chewed-through wires could cause a misfire. I am hoping that it could.
10-28-2011, 01:57 PM
#4
you can get Plugs, coils, wires for $300
AP midpipe to replace CAT $200
Battery from AZ $100
that's $600 in parts not counting the starter (If in fact it is bad)
These parts can easily be replaced yourself in a day....
AP midpipe to replace CAT $200
Battery from AZ $100
that's $600 in parts not counting the starter (If in fact it is bad)
These parts can easily be replaced yourself in a day....
Last edited by cornholio135; 10-28-2011 at 01:59 PM.
10-28-2011, 01:57 PM
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For a moment I'm going to ignore the potential rodent damage.
If the 8 was indeed flooded, then it was caused by ignition failure, starter failure, or battery failure. Alternator failure is really only going to impact post-start, not pre-start. IF you flood, it's from one of these, and I've never heard of it being all 3 at once. If your cat is cooked, then it is likely that it is your ignition, and that your ignition has been failing for some time. You say "replaced 1 year ago", but how many miles is that? The coils can fail as early as 12,000 miles, average around 30,000 miles, and can occasionally get to 45,50, 55, or even 60k. Both ends of are extremes though, and average of 25,000 to 35,000 is pretty much the norm. Cascading failure is very common for the 8s. The typical cascade is coil or wire failure straining the other plug on that rotor, leading to additional coil/plug/wire failure, excess fuel from poor or no spark starts clogging the cat, once the cat has clogged far enough, localized heat buildup starts damaging the O2 sensors, and eventually the engine itself if it doesn't light the car on fire first.
Even all of that though, you were driving the car when it ran into the issue, so flooding isn't a possibility unless the dealer flooded it, which is their own fault. Flooding is when it "can't start" due to excess fuel preventing a spark, it's an inherent part of the definition. If it shuts off while running, that wasn't due to a flood. It can't be.
However, depending on what all was chewed on, yes, the rodents can certainly trigger all of that. But you would pretty much have to prove what was damaged from their teeth. The alarm wires for example could have drained the battery, they could have damaged the ignition wires or even alternator wiring. Unless there was a short that burnt out the starter or alternator though, there is no reason they couldn't just replace the harness. No need to replace the hardware itself.
Something fishy is going on. On the surface, any one piece of the information sounds "normal", but all put together it just doesn't fit itself.
If the 8 was indeed flooded, then it was caused by ignition failure, starter failure, or battery failure. Alternator failure is really only going to impact post-start, not pre-start. IF you flood, it's from one of these, and I've never heard of it being all 3 at once. If your cat is cooked, then it is likely that it is your ignition, and that your ignition has been failing for some time. You say "replaced 1 year ago", but how many miles is that? The coils can fail as early as 12,000 miles, average around 30,000 miles, and can occasionally get to 45,50, 55, or even 60k. Both ends of are extremes though, and average of 25,000 to 35,000 is pretty much the norm. Cascading failure is very common for the 8s. The typical cascade is coil or wire failure straining the other plug on that rotor, leading to additional coil/plug/wire failure, excess fuel from poor or no spark starts clogging the cat, once the cat has clogged far enough, localized heat buildup starts damaging the O2 sensors, and eventually the engine itself if it doesn't light the car on fire first.
Even all of that though, you were driving the car when it ran into the issue, so flooding isn't a possibility unless the dealer flooded it, which is their own fault. Flooding is when it "can't start" due to excess fuel preventing a spark, it's an inherent part of the definition. If it shuts off while running, that wasn't due to a flood. It can't be.
However, depending on what all was chewed on, yes, the rodents can certainly trigger all of that. But you would pretty much have to prove what was damaged from their teeth. The alarm wires for example could have drained the battery, they could have damaged the ignition wires or even alternator wiring. Unless there was a short that burnt out the starter or alternator though, there is no reason they couldn't just replace the harness. No need to replace the hardware itself.
Something fishy is going on. On the surface, any one piece of the information sounds "normal", but all put together it just doesn't fit itself.
Last edited by RIWWP; 10-28-2011 at 02:00 PM.
10-28-2011, 01:58 PM
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i think it could. shutting these cars before they are warmed up can cause flooding. espically if you have an old starter+old/weak battery
10-28-2011, 02:01 PM
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where are u located? if you are close to me ill take a look for ya. i have some old but ing parts in my garage. everytime i offer to help someone out tho, they are usually far away
10-28-2011, 02:23 PM
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200.mph-
Don't worry about it - thanks for the offer though!! I'm up in Boston anywhow which is quite the trek. And yes I do have the old starter.
RIWWP-
Your expertise if comforting- I indeed believe the dealer flooded it (I'm willing to overlook this to work with them), and you are right about the O2 sensor. Plugs/wires/coils were replaced 5k mi ago @ 65k. This is good info. My main problem right now if finding a way to PAY for all of this, whether by claim or warranty.
cornholio135-
If what you say is true then you are a genius!! Can I really use the AP Pipe and pass emissions (I know it says off-road only but I am super tight on cash- I will basically be putting this entire bill on my credit card)?
I was actually thinking of selling the car as I can't bear to see the wear and tear that city life brings down on my baby. Not sure if repair & sell was worth it vs just selling it outright as is, but if I can get the AP pipe that'll save me over a grand (dealer quotes $1500 for cat).
UPDATE: Dealer says the spark wires have NO chews, and the extended 100k mi warranty won't cover this (misfiring not a core failure).
Don't worry about it - thanks for the offer though!! I'm up in Boston anywhow which is quite the trek. And yes I do have the old starter.
RIWWP-
Your expertise if comforting- I indeed believe the dealer flooded it (I'm willing to overlook this to work with them), and you are right about the O2 sensor. Plugs/wires/coils were replaced 5k mi ago @ 65k. This is good info. My main problem right now if finding a way to PAY for all of this, whether by claim or warranty.
cornholio135-
If what you say is true then you are a genius!! Can I really use the AP Pipe and pass emissions (I know it says off-road only but I am super tight on cash- I will basically be putting this entire bill on my credit card)?
I was actually thinking of selling the car as I can't bear to see the wear and tear that city life brings down on my baby. Not sure if repair & sell was worth it vs just selling it outright as is, but if I can get the AP pipe that'll save me over a grand (dealer quotes $1500 for cat).
UPDATE: Dealer says the spark wires have NO chews, and the extended 100k mi warranty won't cover this (misfiring not a core failure).
Last edited by darkrider007; 10-29-2011 at 01:17 PM.
10-28-2011, 02:32 PM
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A) You can "pass emissions" without a cat in states that don't have a sniffer test (where it actually measures emissions). Most states have an ODB2-only test that if you have an AP to mask the CEL caused by no-cat, you don't trip the CEL so it doesn 't fail you. You might get suspicious looks from the mechanic who is going to be smelling unburnt fuel though, and taken to an extreme, they could challenge you on it, and depending on what the laws are, hold the car until they find out what is going on. I've never heard of that happening, just like I've never heard of the FBI handing out the $1,000 federal fine for removing a cat.
B) Always give a shot with your insurance company to see what they say. You will have to prove the connection, and it's probably going to require the dealer's cooperation there, and that's your hardest point, but they might just say "sorry, we don't cover rats eating wires", in which case it just removes that from the table anyway.
C) Mazda OEM ignition parts are available from Advance Auto, and if you check online, they often have a deal that drops the price. A couple months ago, they had a free shipping and 15% off discount code, bringing the cost of 4 plugs, 4 wires, 4 coils to $182 shipped. (this is if you are in the US)
D) If you decide to sell, the dealer will only give you peanuts for it. Many people here would probably offer you $3-5k right off the top, because it's a ~$10k with only a few hundred in repairs to make it sellable. Considering the dealer's list doesn't entirely make sense, I'm not sure I would say any one part of that is actually in need of replacing. I'm sure at least one is, maybe a couple, but the entire list? No. What the actual problem is will determine which are the items that need replacing.
B) Always give a shot with your insurance company to see what they say. You will have to prove the connection, and it's probably going to require the dealer's cooperation there, and that's your hardest point, but they might just say "sorry, we don't cover rats eating wires", in which case it just removes that from the table anyway.
C) Mazda OEM ignition parts are available from Advance Auto, and if you check online, they often have a deal that drops the price. A couple months ago, they had a free shipping and 15% off discount code, bringing the cost of 4 plugs, 4 wires, 4 coils to $182 shipped. (this is if you are in the US)
D) If you decide to sell, the dealer will only give you peanuts for it. Many people here would probably offer you $3-5k right off the top, because it's a ~$10k with only a few hundred in repairs to make it sellable. Considering the dealer's list doesn't entirely make sense, I'm not sure I would say any one part of that is actually in need of replacing. I'm sure at least one is, maybe a couple, but the entire list? No. What the actual problem is will determine which are the items that need replacing.
10-28-2011, 03:22 PM
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A) You can "pass emissions" without a cat in states that don't have a sniffer test (where it actually measures emissions). Most states have an ODB2-only test that if you have an AP to mask the CEL caused by no-cat, you don't trip the CEL so it doesn 't fail you. You might get suspicious looks from the mechanic who is going to be smelling unburnt fuel though, and taken to an extreme, they could challenge you on it, and depending on what the laws are, hold the car until they find out what is going on. I've never heard of that happening, just like I've never heard of the FBI handing out the $1,000 federal fine for removing a cat.
B) Always give a shot with your insurance company to see what they say. You will have to prove the connection, and it's probably going to require the dealer's cooperation there, and that's your hardest point, but they might just say "sorry, we don't cover rats eating wires", in which case it just removes that from the table anyway.
C) Mazda OEM ignition parts are available from Advance Auto, and if you check online, they often have a deal that drops the price. A couple months ago, they had a free shipping and 15% off discount code, bringing the cost of 4 plugs, 4 wires, 4 coils to $182 shipped. (this is if you are in the US)
D) If you decide to sell, the dealer will only give you peanuts for it. Many people here would probably offer you $3-5k right off the top, because it's a ~$10k with only a few hundred in repairs to make it sellable. Considering the dealer's list doesn't entirely make sense, I'm not sure I would say any one part of that is actually in need of replacing. I'm sure at least one is, maybe a couple, but the entire list? No. What the actual problem is will determine which are the items that need replacing.
B) Always give a shot with your insurance company to see what they say. You will have to prove the connection, and it's probably going to require the dealer's cooperation there, and that's your hardest point, but they might just say "sorry, we don't cover rats eating wires", in which case it just removes that from the table anyway.
C) Mazda OEM ignition parts are available from Advance Auto, and if you check online, they often have a deal that drops the price. A couple months ago, they had a free shipping and 15% off discount code, bringing the cost of 4 plugs, 4 wires, 4 coils to $182 shipped. (this is if you are in the US)
D) If you decide to sell, the dealer will only give you peanuts for it. Many people here would probably offer you $3-5k right off the top, because it's a ~$10k with only a few hundred in repairs to make it sellable. Considering the dealer's list doesn't entirely make sense, I'm not sure I would say any one part of that is actually in need of replacing. I'm sure at least one is, maybe a couple, but the entire list? No. What the actual problem is will determine which are the items that need replacing.
NGK plugs/wires, BWD coils for $238 shipped.
$200 AP pipe, $100 battery, $70 O2 sensor, skip the starter (I don't think this is necessarily broken even though it is the old version), we're looking at like $600 parts. Mazda quoted me at $3000!!!!!!!!
Before I order any of this I might as well go for broke with the insurance company. I'll let you guys know how I fare
Last edited by darkrider007; 10-29-2011 at 01:17 PM.
10-28-2011, 04:14 PM
#11
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Honestly, if it was me, I would start with taking the car back from the dealer, and ordering the plugs, wires, and coils, pop those in as soon as they arrive, and see if the car runs fine after that.
Seriously, how in the world does the dealer know the catalytic convertor is gone if the car isn't running? Why would a dealer just randomly pop off the convertor to take a look when the original complaint was rodents might have eaten my wiring?
I think your dealer is being shady.
BC.
Seriously, how in the world does the dealer know the catalytic convertor is gone if the car isn't running? Why would a dealer just randomly pop off the convertor to take a look when the original complaint was rodents might have eaten my wiring?
I think your dealer is being shady.
BC.
10-28-2011, 05:32 PM
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Honestly, if it was me, I would start with taking the car back from the dealer, and ordering the plugs, wires, and coils, pop those in as soon as they arrive, and see if the car runs fine after that.
Seriously, how in the world does the dealer know the catalytic convertor is gone if the car isn't running? Why would a dealer just randomly pop off the convertor to take a look when the original complaint was rodents might have eaten my wiring?
I think your dealer is being shady.
BC.
Seriously, how in the world does the dealer know the catalytic convertor is gone if the car isn't running? Why would a dealer just randomly pop off the convertor to take a look when the original complaint was rodents might have eaten my wiring?
I think your dealer is being shady.
BC.
It still doesn't make sense to me... the engine sputtered to a stop while I was driving... in that case it probably wasn't flooding but misfiring I am guessing? Could this be explained BY a plugged cat?
10-28-2011, 05:42 PM
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Flooding is excess fuel running through the cat (once you get the fuel out of the engine). Same thing as excess fuel from insufficient ignition. Different temps, granted, but they both accelerate cat failure. Clogged cats restrict exhaust flow. So flow is the only thing that matters, not speed or RPM. No-load RPM on a clogged cat still doesn't mean much air/exhaust flow. Full WOT in first gear is full air flow. The clogging of the cat basically "caps" the amount of flow you can push through, and everything past that you have to use a growing portion of the engine power to compress the exhaust gases to keep the same flow rate up. For comparison purposes, a healthy Renesis moves ~5.5 grams per second of air into the engine, and roughly that (maybe a bit higher due to the added gas) of exhaust out. At full WOT peak, you will be moving roughly 180-200 grams of air per second. Unless it's a 100% clog, you will be able to idle 5g/s of air just fine through a heavily clogged cat. Clogged cats keep clogging more however, and clog faster and faster, so if you have a clog at all, you have to address it.
All that being said, if your issue was at idle (or close to it), then it's likely ignition related from your above list. Other idle problems can be MAF related, vacuum leak, e-shaft sensor dirty/miscalibrated, fuel trims off, or engine compression. None of those make the car just "shut off" when it was running before though, except for severe engine compression loss.
It's likely your ignition.
All that being said, if your issue was at idle (or close to it), then it's likely ignition related from your above list. Other idle problems can be MAF related, vacuum leak, e-shaft sensor dirty/miscalibrated, fuel trims off, or engine compression. None of those make the car just "shut off" when it was running before though, except for severe engine compression loss.
It's likely your ignition.
10-28-2011, 06:29 PM
#14
Rotary Evolution
sounds like a load of **** and they just listed off every possible cause and sent to you as a quote through the lying service advisor who gets paid commission on sales.
this is the primary reason i left the dealership community.
you would have had a CEL prior to this event if you had many of those things listed failed.
try to find a local rotary specialist and avoid that particular dealer in the future. in fact i would double check their work and file a complaint with the local BBB. i can guarantee you not all of that failed.
this is the primary reason i left the dealership community.
you would have had a CEL prior to this event if you had many of those things listed failed.
try to find a local rotary specialist and avoid that particular dealer in the future. in fact i would double check their work and file a complaint with the local BBB. i can guarantee you not all of that failed.
Last edited by Karack; 10-28-2011 at 06:33 PM.
10-31-2011, 11:26 AM
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I agree with RIWPP that it is probably ignition-related. I'll get coils/plugs/wires from AAP for an easy $238 and throw them in.
As far as the cat goes, I'm trying to get it replaced under the 80k / 8yr federal emissions warranty (http://www.epa.gov/oms/consumer/warr95fs.txt), with the argument that a plugged cat could have caused the misfire, which in rare cases has been known to happen though it is usually the other way around. I am at 73k / 7 years.
The dealer is being non-committal on whether the misfire caused the cat to fail, or the other way around, saying it is 'hard to tell', and thus can't honor the warranty since it is most likely the former. Is denying me coverage even though they can't prove one way vs the other even legal? Anyone have experience with this?
Paraphrased from the federal warranty document:
"If the failure was not caused by improper maintenance or abuse, any repairs or adjustments necessary for your vehicle to pass a federally approved emissions test should be covered by the manufacturer"
I have OEM plugs/coils in there, regular maintenance, etc.
As far as the cat goes, I'm trying to get it replaced under the 80k / 8yr federal emissions warranty (http://www.epa.gov/oms/consumer/warr95fs.txt), with the argument that a plugged cat could have caused the misfire, which in rare cases has been known to happen though it is usually the other way around. I am at 73k / 7 years.
The dealer is being non-committal on whether the misfire caused the cat to fail, or the other way around, saying it is 'hard to tell', and thus can't honor the warranty since it is most likely the former. Is denying me coverage even though they can't prove one way vs the other even legal? Anyone have experience with this?
Paraphrased from the federal warranty document:
"If the failure was not caused by improper maintenance or abuse, any repairs or adjustments necessary for your vehicle to pass a federally approved emissions test should be covered by the manufacturer"
I have OEM plugs/coils in there, regular maintenance, etc.
Last edited by darkrider007; 10-31-2011 at 11:29 AM.
10-31-2011, 11:51 AM
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Cat failure due to failed ignition is covered by the federal warranty. The dealer can not refuse that legally.
If they do refuse, contact MNAO, and if they still refuse, contact the EPA.
Coil replacement is not an official maintenance item, and failure to change coils can not be legally held against you as "improper maintenance." If they disagree, pull out the RX-8 scheduled maintenance card and ask them to show you where "coil replacement" is listed.
My dealer replaced the cat with no questions asked (it was even in the trunk at the time) when it failed from a coil failure. When it arrived, I drove it in, they had to pull the midpipe off and put on the old cat just to get some test readings, then put the new cat on, the midpipe in the trunk, and handed me a "bill" for $0 along with the keys and a hand shake.
If they do refuse, contact MNAO, and if they still refuse, contact the EPA.
Coil replacement is not an official maintenance item, and failure to change coils can not be legally held against you as "improper maintenance." If they disagree, pull out the RX-8 scheduled maintenance card and ask them to show you where "coil replacement" is listed.
My dealer replaced the cat with no questions asked (it was even in the trunk at the time) when it failed from a coil failure. When it arrived, I drove it in, they had to pull the midpipe off and put on the old cat just to get some test readings, then put the new cat on, the midpipe in the trunk, and handed me a "bill" for $0 along with the keys and a hand shake.
10-31-2011, 12:03 PM
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You are the man. I'm convinced you guys have first-hand knowledge of every possible scenario- I'm on the line with MNAO as I write this
Cat failure due to failed ignition is covered by the federal warranty. The dealer can not refuse that legally.
If they do refuse, contact MNAO, and if they still refuse, contact the EPA.
Coil replacement is not an official maintenance item, and failure to change coils can not be legally held against you as "improper maintenance." If they disagree, pull out the RX-8 scheduled maintenance card and ask them to show you where "coil replacement" is listed.
My dealer replaced the cat with no questions asked (it was even in the trunk at the time) when it failed from a coil failure. When it arrived, I drove it in, they had to pull the midpipe off and put on the old cat just to get some test readings, then put the new cat on, the midpipe in the trunk, and handed me a "bill" for $0 along with the keys and a hand shake.
If they do refuse, contact MNAO, and if they still refuse, contact the EPA.
Coil replacement is not an official maintenance item, and failure to change coils can not be legally held against you as "improper maintenance." If they disagree, pull out the RX-8 scheduled maintenance card and ask them to show you where "coil replacement" is listed.
My dealer replaced the cat with no questions asked (it was even in the trunk at the time) when it failed from a coil failure. When it arrived, I drove it in, they had to pull the midpipe off and put on the old cat just to get some test readings, then put the new cat on, the midpipe in the trunk, and handed me a "bill" for $0 along with the keys and a hand shake.
10-31-2011, 12:08 PM
#18
Rotary Evolution
i agree, if all the other maintenance has been done then the catalyst should be covered. coil pack failures are not considered maintenance items but rather a defect with the cars and should not be the responsibility of the the car purchaser(at least until the powertrain warranty has expired).
Last edited by Karack; 10-31-2011 at 12:10 PM.
10-31-2011, 12:09 PM
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Hardly.
My latest issue had me stumped for a while. (https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-trouble-shooting-95/shattered-clutch-repair-starter-removal-224849/)
Some of the really common stuff is just easy
11-17-2011, 10:52 PM
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This thread is officially resolved; she is purring again! Thanks everyone for your help. Sorry I haven't posted in forever- this has taken awhile for me to iron out.
CATALYTIC:
The dealer finally caved on the replacing the catalytic under emissions warranty, and even threw in the O2 sensor. What did it take? Some strong-arming via calls to various other dealers in the area (most of whom agreed it should be covered), as well as to the EPA to back me up. Took me about 2 weeks of back and forth, but was well worth it and saved me at least $2000.
COILS:
Ordered 4 from AAP ($100 shipped). Installed them myself in the dealer's parking lot while waiting for a tow to my preferred auto shop (need some body work).
PLUGS:
Once towed, my auto shop cleaned the sparks for free (they are <1 yr old, ~3kmi)- I decided to keep them in there.
COST TALLY:
$200 deflooding by dealer
$100 coils from AAP
-------
Grand Total: $300.
Original Dealer Estimate: $3000 parts + $1000 labor.
Ridiculous.
Thanks guys for seeing me through this, I am a very happy man
Goes to show you should NEVER trust the stealership to give you a cost-effective or even accurate analysis of your problem.
Anybody looking at this thread with a similar issue seeking advice, feel free to let me know and I'd be glad to help!
CATALYTIC:
The dealer finally caved on the replacing the catalytic under emissions warranty, and even threw in the O2 sensor
. What did it take? Some strong-arming via calls to various other dealers in the area (most of whom agreed it should be covered), as well as to the EPA to back me up. Took me about 2 weeks of back and forth, but was well worth it and saved me at least $2000.COILS:
Ordered 4 from AAP ($100 shipped). Installed them myself in the dealer's parking lot while waiting for a tow to my preferred auto shop (need some body work).
PLUGS:
Once towed, my auto shop cleaned the sparks for free (they are <1 yr old, ~3kmi)- I decided to keep them in there.
COST TALLY:
$200 deflooding by dealer
$100 coils from AAP
-------
Grand Total: $300.
Original Dealer Estimate: $3000 parts + $1000 labor.
Ridiculous.
Thanks guys for seeing me through this, I am a very happy man
Goes to show you should NEVER trust the stealership to give you a cost-effective or even accurate analysis of your problem.
Anybody looking at this thread with a similar issue seeking advice, feel free to let me know and I'd be glad to help!
Last edited by darkrider007; 11-17-2011 at 10:55 PM.
11-18-2011, 12:32 AM
#22
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Good to know someone didn't get ripped off by the stealership . Kind of weird you didn't get any CEL for misfires, they usually pop up right away and blink depending on how severe.
. Kind of weird you didn't get any CEL for misfires, they usually pop up right away and blink depending on how severe.
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