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Old Jan 9, 2010 | 01:22 PM
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From: NOVA
quick help!!!

when installing MS springs on a stock shock, do I need to trim that yellow bump stop??
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Old Jan 9, 2010 | 01:23 PM
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not relevant but you post number is 666.. yikes
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Old Jan 9, 2010 | 01:42 PM
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I don't think so - the MS are not THAT much shorter, and are stiffer than stock, so less chance of full compression.

Even if the shock mashes the bumpstop, no biggie.
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Old Jan 9, 2010 | 02:17 PM
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Even with the serious drops that some of the locals have done we have never cut/trimmed/altered the bumpstop.
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Old Jan 9, 2010 | 02:32 PM
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From: NOVA
also, how the hell do you get the front sway bar out? I am trying to follorw expo's DIY but, it's no help.
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Old Jan 9, 2010 | 02:36 PM
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ROFL...that damn thing is a pain in the butt. If I remember correctly you have to rotate the sway bar clockwise with some fidgiting of the control arms to get it past and fished through.
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Old Jan 9, 2010 | 02:38 PM
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Originally Posted by DeViLbOi
ROFL...that damn thing is a pain in the butt. If I remember correctly you have to rotate the sway bar clockwise with some fidgiting of the control arms to get it past and fished through.
yes, we cant get it to do a 180 so the endlink connection is out side.

anyone in NOVA wanna stop over and help
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Old Jan 9, 2010 | 02:48 PM
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I know it took 3 of us about 45 minutes of fiddling to get it so that we could rotate it. If I remember correctly I even had to lift the one wheel so someone else could rotate it and clear the control arm. Someone else did it locally with one other guy and it took them an hour and a half to get it to rotate around. Which front sway are you putting in btw?
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Old Jan 9, 2010 | 02:55 PM
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All I can say is it takes a long *** time to get that sway outta there. I did mine by myself and it took freakin forever. I do remember the following which might help you.

When I finally got it:

1.) I had to almost completely roatate it where needed INSIDE the last part of the frame(I'll call it) before you get it out into the fender well area. It took some walking back and forth from side to side of the car to eventually see/get it where I needed it to be.

2.) It came out the drivers side and once I got it so far, it might have taken some different steering wheel turns/angles to finally get it.

EDIT: Apparently most have better luck taking it out the passenger side, so go with that!

Good luck, don't give up, and don't get frustrated to where you just start yanking it around.


Bump stops.......not really sure, but probably not. I only have RB sprongs and "yes", I did cut mine down per the instructions, but they were NOT MS springs.

Last edited by Mazurfer; Jan 9, 2010 at 05:57 PM.
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Old Jan 9, 2010 | 03:04 PM
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Easy way to get the sway bar out is to remove the lower rad supports and loosen the front of the the plastic tray....push the rad a bit and then it fits easily...takes about 10 min to do the lowering...and saves a lot of pissing around......
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Old Jan 9, 2010 | 03:13 PM
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We did have the lower tray out all the way...but what does disconnecting the lower part of the rad gain you...you still have a hose in the way of pulling the sway straight out.
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Old Jan 9, 2010 | 03:16 PM
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Originally Posted by dannobre
Easy way to get the sway bar out is to remove the lower rad supports and loosen the front of the the plastic tray....push the rad a bit and then it fits easily...takes about 10 min to do the lowering...and saves a lot of pissing around......
Pissing around is something I do rather well.
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Old Jan 9, 2010 | 03:28 PM
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From: NOVA
it just does not seem possible at all...
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Old Jan 9, 2010 | 03:31 PM
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I'd cut the bump stops about an inch...there is really no problem with them an inch shorter....but there is a huge problem if you are hitting them all the time....
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Old Jan 9, 2010 | 04:24 PM
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From: NOVA
so, should we cut the stops or not?? what can go wrong/.
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Old Jan 9, 2010 | 05:25 PM
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From: NOVA
okwe got the sway bar rotated 180 but now it's getting snagged on what looks like one of te radiator hoses..
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Old Jan 9, 2010 | 05:37 PM
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You have to kinda rotate/wiggle/pull carefully to get it to come out. I found it easier to pull it out the passenger side...then the rad hoses are less of an issue

It's also easier with 2 people...so one can support the end while the other guides it out
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Old Jan 9, 2010 | 05:47 PM
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Yup...we found the passenger side easier as well. Once we got it rotated it came out real quick so you're not far from gettin it done d00d.
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Old Jan 9, 2010 | 05:53 PM
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From: NOVA
PT sways BTW
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Old Jan 9, 2010 | 07:43 PM
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New endlinks?
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Old Jan 9, 2010 | 07:56 PM
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From: NOVA
no, I am not using the stiff settings until I can get them. Others have said they are ok to use though

It took us 7-1/2 hours to do just the front....we messed up a few times but the front springs and front sway bar.

Tomorrow we will do the rear stuff.
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Old Jan 10, 2010 | 08:33 AM
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Rear is cake!
Bet it takes you probably less than 15 minutes to do the rear sway, and just a little bit longer for the springs. Think you'll knock it out in under an hour.
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Old Jan 10, 2010 | 10:11 AM
  #23  
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From: NOVA
ok, we got one of the rear shocks kinda off but the whole wheel hub aasembly has moved towards the car and is kinda jammed the shock in there. how the hell are we going to be able to reassemble this thing?
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Old Jan 10, 2010 | 01:41 PM
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From: NOVA
alrght we got it all done....

thanks everyone
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