So, this is a rather complex question (so maybe jon is the only one with the answer).
How is the process of 'steering' in regards to providing power to the rack? I'm obviously having another issue since I have the sensor cables soldered to the adapter, and I'm thinking it might be the EPS.

From what I gathered: the harness goes directly to the EPS itself, both the sensors & the power, the EPS gets its supply directly from the battery and supplies it to the rack via the harness. Does the EPSprovide a constant supply of power to the rack or is it only when the steering wheel is turning?
I'm asking this because I was measuring the current from the EPS into the harness and had no current, even with the car running.

Fact 1: Steering was working perfectly until I got into a deep puddle of water, could've submerged the rack and also flooded the EPS because I came rather fast into it. It stopped working since then UNTIL

Fact 2: Weeks later when replacing the alternator, when turning the car on after having the battery disconnected for a while it worked, just once, but it worked perfectly again, which leads me to believe it's the source of power and not the rack itself.

Fact 3: Hasn't worked again after turning the car off.

EDIT: Nevermind, found some more info in the manual: http://www.rotaryheads.com/PDF/RX8/8Steering.PDF
Will update after some more testing.

 

Check this out, this might help if you haven't done it yet. All the pictures show pretty much most of the connectors for the harness.

DIY: Power Steering connector cleaning

 

Alas, I read this post awhile back and I wake up this morning to find my power steering light on. -sigh- Its alright though, awesome reason to lay out of work and work on my car :D
Steerling has been heavy on the left side since the night before last, i has a feeling this was coming so i ordered the parts then.

 

there is also a bad ground causing poor contact to the eps,is the one that goes right on top of the eps to body ground close to the batery..

 

According to the link I posted, the wire to the EPS fuse on the positive terminal of the battery is a ground. I think it could be for the module. However, the harness itself only has two grounds as seen in the picture below.

 

The EPS Module also has 3 grounds, 1 on the main power connector, and 2 on the connector that goes to the PCM. 1B, 2A, and 2O. I don't know the exact location on the chassis but I think they're next to the washer fluid.

 

Good data, I already cleaned the connectors and nothing, will check voltage and post results.

Thanks

 

Well once again this site saved me money. Had no power steering. Pulled harness cleaned contacts and grounds. Used di-electric grease on the connectors and viola. It works. Thank you!

 

BUMP for the COLD WEATHER EPS PROBLEM!

 

Ok guys, so three years ago I replaced my harness since I was getting the power steering failure and this fixed it up until the last 6 months. At that point on, I've been getting extremely intermittent failures, like days to weeks apart. I went ahead and replaced the harness again last week and noticed an improvement even in steering feel. Unfortunately today I got the EPS failure light again leaving school and went home to clean the connectors for the temporary fix. I thinking it's the upper harness that's corroded ever so slightly (can't tell easily by eye).

Guess it's time to solder the connectors once and for all?

 

Anyone?

 

The question seems rhetorical. I hard wired the connector years ago, before I even started having any problems. Never had to deal with it again. Nearly free if you know what you are doing. Only reason I can think of to go with any other option is if you aren't comfortable with proper electrical work, which I admit is probably the greater percentage of owners.

 

Another solution to try if your power steering is not working is to do a total reset of the car.

The solution is to:
-disconnect negative terminal.
-Turn key forward
-within 5 seconds stomp the break pedal 10 times
-Turn key back.
-reconnect battery

you wont get an indication anything happened because the battery is off.

When I started the car the light was gone & steering worked. It also ran like a bag of ****. So you have to take it down the street to have the computer re-learn its fuel trims.

 

Ok guys. After soldering the power and torque sensor connections, I seemed to have fixed my uneven steering from left to right, and my car felt perfect! Unfortunately, this lastest maybe a week or two until I slowly started losing steering feel. Two weeks ago I couldn't take it anymore and after rereading the entire thread, I discovered MM's posts about the torque sensor being the primary cause of uneven steering. I decided to cut my soldered connections of the torque sensor and start over. Problem was solved once again for another week or so, and now I'm back to the same problem once again.

I've literally had it with this and have decided I will be crimping the connectors, heat-shrinking, and wrapping the connections on the torque sensor to fix this once and for all. I have never crimped connections before, but it seems pretty straightforward. Supposedly you need a very good crimp to make the connection very good, so can anyone recommend where I can buy a quality crimp that isn't too expensive? Can I buy butt splice connectors from say home depot or radio shack, or do I need a specific type? Thanks.

 

Anyone?

 

Bump.

 

Try cleaning the female end of the harness to the steering rack(below); and the connector and the ground on the rack, also try bending the the contact point on the harness (not on the rack) for a tight connection.

 

I cleaned every connector on the EPS harness and rack itself, including the grounds. It's the torque sensor that's my problem. I've been extremely busy lately and haven't had a chance to work on it, but I'm going to try crimping the connectors later this week as soldering doesn't hold long enough regardless of how well of a job I do.

 

Well after about a month of messing around trying to solve this I called the dealer and told them to order the rack.
I have cleaned all connectors probably upwards of 10 times, replaced the harness, have removed/soldered the torque and power connectors, tested for grounds, continuity, parasitic drains and even tried replacing the battery. Nothing will make it consistently work. I am assuming at this point my failure is not typical as it was brought on by hitting a curb and must have actually physically damaged something in the rack on impact. Prior to that I never had any issues, and hopefully after the rack is replaced I won't have them anymore... Keeping my fingers crossed.

 

Love this forum, woke up this morning left for work and same thing. Less than five minutes here and may have found my answer. I'll post when I try it.

 

I need some help. As i am somewhat new to fixing things on my 8. I am in the army and recently and my father put my car off the side of the garage for storage. I came home early and hopped in to start it as it was running pretty rough (but after running for a bit, it seems to be running great, a little slugish on start off tho) but my concern is; my power steering seems to be really tight most of the time. But there is no light on for it, should i just clean the connectors?? As well it doesnt really go with this thread but my abs, dsc, and my auto headlight leveling light is on when i started it?? Any help is much needed and if anyone is in the upstate ny area that may be able to assist in anything is very much appreciated!!

 

Ok, Fella's...help a Mazda chic out here please....

I have read many posts and followed them but am having no luck with my EPS turning off and on. I did have my radiator changed and I replaced the overflow tank so, I did what someone posted on here and removed the air filter casing, cleaned the connectors for the EPS, put on D-electric and reconnected. Well, didn't work..
Have reset the steering clock right/left...no luck
On, occasion when I turn the car off after starting it and the light is on, it resets (but not always)???
Dealer already tried to *&^%$ me on the radiator so thought I would get this out so I have a better idea what to do and what I am dealing with here.

Thanks for any feedback!!!!!

 

Which connections did you clean? If you've cleaned the two directly under the coolant reservior/overflow tank, you will have to clean the one on the steering rack also. Below, you will see the wire secured with two zipties just beyond the pulleys and front stabilizer bar. It was easier for me to access that from the bottom after the splash guard/undertray have been removed. Cut the zipties, follow the ground and remove it's bolt with I think an 8mm or 10mm wrench. Clean the connections and secure it.

Also, try wiggling your negative terminal on your battery which has the 60 amp EPS fuse(last picture attached below). If it is loose, clean and replace the clamp on that terminal. And don't forget to extend the tube from the overflow tank.

 

It's been mentioned a bunch of times, but if cleaning both ends of the connectors don't work, buy a new PS harness. Part # F151-67-SH0D is the latest. It's cheap, $98 + shipping @ Mazmart.com - see HERE. It's also an easy install.

If after purchasing the PS harness, you are still having problems - remove the plastic top connectors of the harness, and hard wire them together (crimp, solder, and heatwrap) as mentioned in the posts above. The dealership or any car audio shop can do this for you, if you aren't comfortable to DIY.

 

My terminals were a bit loose so I changed them out hopingthat would be the easy fix….not. Don’t know I am mechanically inclined enoughto get under the car and take off the splash guard…grrr. Ironically it powersteering was on all day until I disconnected the battery to change theterminals. Maybe I should by the harness and have someone replace it? Theconnectors I cleaned yes, were under the air filter housing.