Power Loss on High Temp Days
07-14-2011, 06:44 PM
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Power Loss on High Temp Days
I own a 2004 RX-8 with 124K miles, and the engine was already replaced at 75K miles. Over the last couple of months, I have traveled to the beach three times (209 miles one way; 3.5 hours), spending the day there, then returning around 4 p.m. The temperature on those days was always in the low to mid 90's. Each return trip home, I have experienced a loss of power when trying to accelerate while already moving. For example, I mostly travel at 75 to 80 mph, and I use my cruise control. When setting the cruise control at 75 mph, on certain occasions (going up a hill or slight incline), the speed would drop to 71 or 72 mph, which is highly unusual for my car. I'm used to my car holding it's speed when using cruise control. Also, when not using cruise control, I noticed on numerous occasions, already travelling at least 75 mph, that I could press the accelerator all the way down to the floor, and the car would not respond for approximately 8-10 seconds. Then, after 8-10 seconds, the power would come back, like a turbocharger kicking in, and my car would accelerate quickly. A couple of weeks ago, something new happened on my trip back from the beach, not only did I have the acceleration problem, but there was also the "rocks in a tin can" or "rocks in a blender" sound coming from my center console area. It was not constant, only when my RPM's were above 4500. In addition, my coolant light is coming on any time my RPM's are around or above 4500 for more than a couple of minutes.
Another issue that I have is a quick loss of power the first time I accelerate above 4500-5000 rpm in the morning, no matter the temperature outside. When accelerating there is a noticeable 1 to 2 second gap in power, the car kind of coughs, and then begins to accelerate strongly again. This last thing has been happening since last June, and the dealership thought they fixed this last year by replacing a vacuum hose that had a crack in it. Of course, they could never duplicate any of these issues that I'm having.
The advisors have indicated that the coolant light is coming on because of a faulty sensor in the coolant tank, and they say I need to have my coolant tank replaced. According to the service advisor, any time there is a bump or movement in the car then this sensor could make the light come on. I explained to him that I can make the light come on anytime my RPM's are at 4500 for a couple of minutes, then as soon as I drop the RPM's down under 4000, the light will go off after 10 seconds. This doesn't just sound like a faulty sensor to me.
Today I asked the service advisor to check my catalytic converter to see if that could be causing the problem. He basically looked at me like I was crazy, and he told me there would be a constant acceleration problem if the catalytic converter was bad. He called me later today to tell me that catalytic converter was still working, but it is on its last leg. He then repeated that the catalytic converter would not cause the problems that I described to him. I also asked him if a bad cat would throw a code, and he told me that it wouldn't for a rotary engine.
So, I would appreciate any feedback that any of you can give me. I am very frustrated with not knowing what is wrong with my car and having service advisors tell me that nothing is really wrong with it. Thanks, folks.
Another issue that I have is a quick loss of power the first time I accelerate above 4500-5000 rpm in the morning, no matter the temperature outside. When accelerating there is a noticeable 1 to 2 second gap in power, the car kind of coughs, and then begins to accelerate strongly again. This last thing has been happening since last June, and the dealership thought they fixed this last year by replacing a vacuum hose that had a crack in it. Of course, they could never duplicate any of these issues that I'm having.
The advisors have indicated that the coolant light is coming on because of a faulty sensor in the coolant tank, and they say I need to have my coolant tank replaced. According to the service advisor, any time there is a bump or movement in the car then this sensor could make the light come on. I explained to him that I can make the light come on anytime my RPM's are at 4500 for a couple of minutes, then as soon as I drop the RPM's down under 4000, the light will go off after 10 seconds. This doesn't just sound like a faulty sensor to me.
Today I asked the service advisor to check my catalytic converter to see if that could be causing the problem. He basically looked at me like I was crazy, and he told me there would be a constant acceleration problem if the catalytic converter was bad. He called me later today to tell me that catalytic converter was still working, but it is on its last leg. He then repeated that the catalytic converter would not cause the problems that I described to him. I also asked him if a bad cat would throw a code, and he told me that it wouldn't for a rotary engine.
So, I would appreciate any feedback that any of you can give me. I am very frustrated with not knowing what is wrong with my car and having service advisors tell me that nothing is really wrong with it. Thanks, folks.
07-14-2011, 08:10 PM
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I had the same problem. Loss of power and this vibrating noise from the engine. My car would even die at the stop lights after running on the interstate at 70mph for about an hour. This only happened on hot days above 80 degrees. I had the secondary shutter valve replaces, the coils, plugs and wires replaced. Even replaces the MAF and cleaned off the eccentric sensor that had a small piece of metal on it. The technicians said nothing is wrong and the compression tested good. Oh yeah I even did a little seafoaming to clean the carbon out before they replaced the secondary shutter valve. Nothing seemed to help, then I decided to add 2cycle oil in the tank and now my car runs fantastically smooth. Even idling in hot weather it is good. I think I will go back and have them check why my car is not squirting enough oil in the rotors. This seems to be my problem. I know when I replaced the MAF and cleaned off the eccentric sensor my car started to run better but I would still loose power and die at stop lights when it was hot out.
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