Technically, yes.

However, if you bring it in for them to check, the dealer will enter it as a "power loss" complaint, and that diagnosis also involves new coils, plugs, wires, seafoaming, reflash, etc... any or all of which they may try to charge you for. Some dealers have been reported as not accepting "I just changed my coils and plugs", and insist that they change them first before moving on to check other stuff. If you are on good terms with your dealer, or can find someone reasonable and level headed, then you can get them to jump straight to checking the cat and/or compression.

If you tell them you are going to pay for a specific service or specific check, they always do that exactly, no issue. But if it's a warranty complaint, often they try to tack on lots of extras. Be very wary of this, and arm yourself with knowledge ahead of time.

 

Coils, plugs, and most likely CAT now!..............unfortunately.

You saying that you have original coils with over 100k miles?

In terms of your compression question..............give it a search, there are some threads on the subject.

 

Could you elaborate on the types of problems this could cause? I had some issues with my car back in the summer/fall (none since the weather turned cold), and I suspect the fuel pump may have been the problem.

Essentially, when the car was hot, there were issues at idle. The car would have a very rough idle at low RPMs and would stall out at times if I didn't give it a little gas while stopped. It was much more likely to stall when on an incline. When this happened, it was a huge pain to get it restarted- lots of cranking involved.

Also, it was difficult to fill the gas tank up. The automatic shutoff would constantly trigger even if the tank was nowhere close to full. One time I gave up after about a minute of attempting to pump once I'd gotten a gallon or two in.

These problems were definitely heat related. They popped up after long drives, and the hotter the weather the more prevalent they were. Since winter, though, they've pretty much gone away.

 

I have actually had the same thing happen to me, but a minute or so later of tryin to figure what the heck was up it would finally allow me to pump. Don't think it's happened since the cool weather either.

 

Fuel pump issues are pretty common yet a bit different from what you described.
They usually begin as fuel cut-offs with a tank that's not completely full and progressively get worse.
When the fuel pump overheats it progressivey start pumping less fuel, letting your car first go slower and then turn off. It is, at that point, practically impossible to re-start the car untill it cools down a bit (15\20 minutes or more).
This is what generally happens but symptoms may vary. The fact is that it is easy to mis interpret those symptoms because they are common to blown\worn engines, broken catalyzers etc. Some times the coil may be play a role, not often though.
Even the Oil metering pump, if worn, may not be working properly letting the engine lose compression over time.
This is a very stringed synthesis, you should research the various points