Well this is a new one in my book. I have had powerloss issues before but none like this. I have had 2 coils replaced in the last 6 months. They were replaced because I noticed powerloss below 4000K. Anyway, on to my new problem. I revcently moved to ohio. About a 6 hour drive. It drove great all the way here. Once here the first time I went out roaming around I noticed that my 8 was acting very strange. It's like it cuts power every 4 or 5 seconds. When in 1st and 2nd gear it is VERY noticeable bc of the jerking motion. Going down the highway in 5th or 6th it is still noticable but not as drastic...I just figured that it was bc of running 89(which I always did back home in NC). So i put 93 in and it seemed to do a little better for a couple days but today it started again. I have had the plugs replaced in the last 10K. I have a KN intake (old version) PLEASE HELP. I only have 1,900 miles left on my warrenty. Anyone know a good dealership in the Dayton, OH area? Thanks in advance! Matt

 

clean your MAF?

 

I took it to the dealer and they reflased it. DID NOT HELP. So like suggested I cleaned the MAF. Still didn't help. Any other suggestions? I only have 1,600 miles left on the warrenty. ANYONE...

 

Hello,

See my post from erjjet. I highly recommend you pay for a warr. extension. My eng is now being replaced after 4 mnths of pwr loss etc. It would have cost me 6/8 k w/out warr. I tried 93 octain, ocatain boost, gas cleaner, Techron additive etc.. Does it happen at certain Temps outside?

good luck

 

Is it an AT or MT?

CAT converter?

 

Who would I need to see about a warrenty extension. As many times as this thing has been in the shop I would def. agree that I need it. As far as the cat...I'm not sure. The Engine does get extremley HOTT FAST. I mean I can drive a mile down the road and pop the hood and it's already VERY warm under the hood....Engine shakes alot. never noticed that before. Best way to describe what it's doing is I hold the throttle to get the RPM's to about 3K while idling bc if you don't it acts like it wants to die...while I'm holding it constant at 3K it will drop to 2K or 1500 for a secound and bounce back to 3K for 3 secs and back and forth...sometimes it runs fine....I don't know. It's starting to drive me nutts!!!! Anyway, thanks so much for your help guys. I guess I'll give Mazda a call again tomorrow and drop it off again. He keeps saying it's the K&N intake that is causing it, BUT it's been on there for OVER a year without a problem.

 

describe how you cleaned your maf.

 

https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.p...=1#post1416809

This may help, may not. I have done some homework. It is 97 today. All good.

 

well I pulled the MAF sensor...or atleast what I THINK the MAF sensor out and cleaned it with cue tips and rubbing alcohol. Got a little bit of black stuff off of it waited a few mins for it to dry and replaced it....looks like a little brown teardrop? was that right? Anyway, today I just drove to lunch and it's 92 degrees here and Dayton, OH. No problems...it's the strangest thing!! I have to drive back to NC next week. I gotta get this figured out before then. Thanks... OH I did have my Cat off for a few months and was running a midpipe. Having it off for a couple months would not have messed it up would it?

 

the tear drop is the Intake Air Temp, IAT, sensor. so you may be getting a better temp reading now. The MAF is actually up inside the tube that the IAT is attached to. get some carb cleaner and actually spray up in there. wait for it to dry and replace.

 

well don't I feel like a DA :P I guess I know what I'm doing this afternoon! I hope that helps. Thanks man!

 

nah dont feel like a DA tis an easy mistake to make

 

OK...well I cleaned the real MAF now and it did not help at all. I have noticed a few different threads on this site that talked about this issue...My latest experience has been when I pust down on the maf sensor while it's screwed in to the air intake it messes up the idol. If I press hard enough it actually cuts the car OFF. I did notice a very small rip in the o ring that holds in sensor in tight when screwed in. Would this cause the problem I've been discribing? Also, I have noticed now that is only is a problem at like 10-30% throttle. Anytime it's Jerking and slugging with me if I floor it it hesitates a sec or so but when it kicks in it does not stumble anymore...until i let off the gas of course. Any ideas?

 

well its no good to have a leak there so get a new o ring. and quit pushing on it

 

well I had planned to but I was wondering if something that small could cause the problem I'm having lol

 

well I have 400 miles left on my warranty. Took my car in today. (I'm in Charleston SC for work) They told me that all of the problems i was having were bc my clutch is about to go! I thought that could be going on, but I still am at a loss as to why the RPM varies and I have loss of power while sitting still in nuetral. How would the clutch affect the car when stopped??? Don't get me wrong I know the clutch is getting bad but it just doesn't seem to make sense to me...Can anyone help??? Also what should i expect to pay if it is the clutch? Thanks! Matt

 

I have the codes they pulled. Can someone tell me what they are? po102, p0113, p0172,p0335,p0103,p0123, and p0223. I'm sure someone can tell me something from that...I hope atleast?

 

Here is a link to all the code descriptions:

https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.p...ight=cel+codes

po102 - MAF sensor circuit low input ON 1 CCM ´ (See DTC P0102 )
p0113 - IAT sensor circuit high input ON 1 CCM ´ (See DTC P0113 )
p0172 - System too rich ON 2 Fuel system ´ (See DTC P0172 )
p0335 - Eccentric shaft position sensor circuit problem ON 1 CCM ´
(See DTC P0335 )
p0103 - MAF sensor circuit high input ON 1 CCM ´ (See DTC P0103 )
p0123 - TP sensor No.1 circuit high input ON 1 CCM ´ (See DTC
P0123 )
p0223 - TP sensor No.2 circuit high input ON 1 CCM ´ (See DTC
P0223 )

 

Looks like someone pulled the MAF with the ignition still on to me.....

 

that's my preffered throw a cel trick

 

I did not pull the MAF while it was running BUT I did pull my KN filter off while it was running (just the filter) which killed the car. BUT that was 2 weeks before and it DID throw a CEL which went off by it's self after a couple trips. This time it came on while driving down the highway. I have the factory intake back on now since the first time it started acting up the dealer just flashed the ECU and blamed my problem on the K&N. Here is my Situation....I'm in Charleston,SC. for work until Sunday. I live in NC BUT am moving to Ohio on monday. I only have 390 Miles left on my warranty!!! The Dealer here that looked at it and pulled the codes said that they didn't have time to figure out what was wrong with it and fix it before I leave. " i should nurse it back to NC and let the dealer that I purchased it from fix it" but I'm only going to be home for 1 day bc I have to be in TN for work on Tuesday which means the one at home cant fix it either. IF IT EVEN MAKES IT BACK TO NC. and like I said I'm moving to ohio so I have to leave TN to go to ohio right after that. I'm just in a really bad situation. SUCKS!!! I don't know what to do. Thanks for the hep though....oh the dealer said that the ecu was pulling info from the air temp. sensor of like -40 degrees which was making the car add more fuel which was messing with the o2 sensor. What in the world would cause that? do you think my engine is pinging? I used to have a canzoomer so I know what that feels like and it REALLY feels like that. Could the canzoomer have damaged my ECU permentaly?

 

your maf is screwed because of the oil from the knn. over oiled filer sends deposits which eventually destroy the maf. same with the IAT since it is on the same component. pull you rMAF and clean it thoroughly with carb cleaner. hopefully it only needs cleaned and no treplaced.

 

As you have reported this problem prior to the end of your warranty, you will be fine should this turn out to be a warranty issue. If, as zoom44 suggests, this is a problem caused by a oil covered MAF sensor, well then it could turn out to be a different story.

K&N filters need to be oiled as per instructions supplied by K&N. Unfortunately, people tend to overoil their filters, and this oil often contaminates sensors downstream in the intake. Don't suppose you have a mate with an RX-8 who you could swap MAF's with for a day or so?? That would sort the issue out for you one way or the other.

 

I have cleaned my MAF well with carb cleaner and it did not help. nor did it look dirty to begin with. but like I said before they are saying that it is the cluth that is causing ALLLLL of the problems. I just don't see how the clutch would make it stall sitting at a light NOT in gear. Or throw a CEL! I'm afraid I'm going to spend all the money to fix the clutch and the problem is still going to be there. I wonder if I can drive it back to Ohio in a week and have it fixed there even though I'll be 1000 miles over my warrenty? since it is documented that I had the issues now...

 

and less than 50,000 miles on a clutch? I drive like a grandma MOST of the time. Anyone know about what the clutch is going to run me?