Kozy

just bought an '04 rx8. They put a new, although used, engine in it. The check engine light was on and the dealer said its because the engine was just replaced and you need to drive it 200 miles. Well I drove it 220 miles and the light is still on. I have a pocket scanner and first scan it read "no codes". Then the second time I got two codes which were "p2070" and "p/d p2070". Im aware this code means air intake, but since its pending and the fact it didnt catch it the first scan makes it seem like thats not the reason the engine light is on.

any ideas?

Mr.Mango

iTrader: (2)

If my memory serves correct that code is for the Shutter valve, carbon builds up on it. It is located on the front of the lower intake manifold and not the easiest to get at. Try doing a De-carb first, it will help your motor and hopefully fix your problem. If your still getting the code after its a vacuum-actuated valve, so it can be tested... Use a vacuum pump and multimeter, you can verify that the actuator works and that the sensor isn't faulty. Your next step would be to test the solenoid that controls it.

Kozy

the code is actually for the air intake valve

McKennaR

iTrader: (1)

The code is actually for the SSV, as indicated above by Mr Mango, which with a generic "pocket scanner" such as you're using, will appear as "intake valve." So you were both right.

Check this thread out.

https://www.rx8club.com/trouble-shoo...e-p2070-79403/

When I went to google.com and in the search window typed (w/o quotes) "site:rx8club.com p2070" the first thread that popped up in my results is the above linked thread.

It really helps me find what I'm looking for far better than the useless search window on this site.

Anyways, there are a pantload of SSV remove-and-clean DIY threads on here, but yours might not need that. All you might need is to connect a vac line to your SSV or something simple, so start there, and if everything is correctly attached, then you *may* need to pull and clean your SSV.

Hope this helps.

Ryan

Kozy

Thanks! Im a full time college student and when im not in school im either working or working out so I dont really have time to do anything unless its just plugging something in (which I saw in the thread, that could be it). Is there anyway that you could elaborate on what id need to plug in (someone said it was a vaccum hose but idk where to even begin to look for where it would be).

Anywho, I test drove another RX8 that was fine and it felt like it has the same power mine does, meaning my car doesnt hiccup, have loss of power, stall, ect... Maybe i just need to red line it a few times to try and clear whatever is causing the problem, idk though! I might just bring it in tomorrow to get a sticker and see if any other codes pop up on their machine!

Does anyone know how many miles it typically takes for the CEL to clear after installing a new (used) motor?

McKennaR

iTrader: (1)

If the dealer did everything properly, there wouldn't be a CEL. To put it bluntly, they're blowing smoke up your ***.

You can try clearing the code with your pocket scanner and seeing if it comes back?

Otherwise, I'd take a hard look in the SSV area for unplugged electrical connectors or hoses. Attached is a pic of an SSV from a 4 port car, still in the lower intake manifold but removed from the car. The little battery lookin' thing with the electrical connector sticking out of the back is the solenoid, make sure it's present and plugged in. The little "hat" on the top of the whole assembly (the one closest to my thumb in the picture, not the one opposite my hand, but yeah make sure there's a vac line there too) with the little pipe sticking out of it is where the vac line connects to it.

Mr.Mango

iTrader: (2)

There is a vacuum line on the actuator for this valve, that is where you would attach the vacuum pump if you were to test it. Its possible that line came off and is causing a vacuum leak, but most likely the valve is sticking open.. As a vacuum leak would cause lose of power.

The shutter valve isnt supposed to open until 3500rpm (give or take) so you will lose bottom end power if its stuck open.. something the RX8 already lacks probably why your not seeing a huge difference. And the opposite would happen it its stuck closed, you would lose mid-top end power.

Your NOT supposed to have a CEL when replacing the motor, if all functions are working properly of course. Occasionally people will get a P0410 if the tech removes the air pump but I never take it out to avoid that.

Braden

Kozy

thanks guys for the replies and the pictures, ill check all of that out tomorrow.

If it makes a difference, I did start red lining the car today and i noticed the CEL was flashing at some points, does this matter?

And I did punch it in 1st gear and peeled out and did a 180 (i was just seeing if i had power haha, but i am aware how stupid that was) granted i turned DCS off, but still.

McKennaR

iTrader: (1)

Flashing CEL = misfire.

https://www.rx8club.com/tech-garage-...t-here-222280/

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

rofl dealership ... run away from that stealershit as fast as you can !

drive it hard and keep cycling the full rpm range, it usually free the SSV like that.

flashing CEL means misfiring, change coils and plugs.

Kozy

do i have to remove the tire to change the plugs?

btw the engine starts fairly easily (compared to videos i watched on youtube). I can grab a video soon and post it on here and tell me what u think.

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

it gives you more room, but I never had to remove the tire to do plugs. and I'm a big guy which used to weight 250 lbs, now 225 , no issues.

Kozy

im gonna drive it to the dealer and demand they do it. well actually i already called them and they said they would for free.

Kozy

Now that i think of it i noticed that sometimes around the 3,000 rpm range it seemed like it lacked power. And although it starts easy, it does idle a little rough (i figured it could just be the design of the engine).

McKennaR

iTrader: (1)

Remember those Lexus commercials back in the day with the champagne glasses on the hood of an LS400? My 8 idles like that when warm. This is probably the smoothest engine I've ever had in any car I've ever owned (DISCLAIMER: I own Subaru's, 3.2 liter stroked & bored turbo 4 cylinders and 5 cylinder Volvos, so that's not saying much).

In fact, if I have the radio on, I have a hard time launching the car smoothly unless I stare at the tach because I can't hear the engine at all it's so quiet (DISCLAIMER: I've been in the Army for 11 years, been on the receiving end of many loud, concussive blasts... my hearing sucks).

In all seriousness, your idle should be pretty smooth, and in general throughout the rev range, I have a really hard time even feeling engine vibrations in the steering wheel. It's a very smooth car.

If your car is shaking like a dog sh*tting tacks, you should probably have that checked out.

Kozy

the only time I notice any real vibrations is when the engine is cold, and it will cause the steering wheel to vibrate a little but as soon as I put my hands on the wheel (even just resting my hands on top) causes it to stop. Im just gonna assume it's the plugs, wires, and coils cause who knows the last time they were changed, it only makes sense that that would be the problem (rough idle, flashing CEL [biggest indicator], low power around 3,000rpms sometimes, and a vibrating steering wheel on a cold start).

Today I will leave the music off and drive around and listen for misfires or anything strange like that

McKennaR

iTrader: (1)

Don't do anything until your stealership fixes everything they screwed up.

Leave everything the way it is, and say "I have the intake valve code and my check engine light is flashing, which the manual says is a misfire... so I have misfires and the SSV issue" and force them to do their job of diagnosing and resolving the issues. Don't make it easy on them. These people have already lost the benefit of the doubt in my mind by telling you that "the CEL is on because its a new engine" hoping that it will magically disappear and they won't have to dump any $$ into the car.

Stick it to them. Good luck.

Kozy

thanks. Im only 19 so it was my first time through a "stealership" and now I realize they didnt exactly think I was a good kid (or maybe they do) but they just say **** to sell it to you. Well this friday i make the 2 hour drive back to the dealership just to sit there for an hour or 2 and hope they fix it in that time period.

Kozy

So its been below freezing all night and my car was covered in snow. Started up BETTER then ever after a night of high rpm driving. When istarted it the rpms went to 1500 then dropped right below 1000 rpms where it idled flawlessly. So confused about what the lights on for! Their was no rough idling at all!

Kozy

Kozy

McKennaR

iTrader: (1)

These things start up better when cold, typically. The reverse of most cars. Has to do with the rotor housings contracting slightly to make a better seal on the rotors. When it's warm if you have issues starting it, then you'll know you're running low on compression and you need a rebuild. There's umpteen million videos on ebay demonstrating this.

Your two videos indicate excellent starting times, hot or cold, so mechanically it appears that the important parts of your engine are in good shape.

Anyways, your car starts, runs and drives normally and that's cool, but with the CEL still on, there's not a whole lot more I can tell you except for have the dealer fix their mistakes. Or if you don't want to drive that far, try doing what we all suggested throughout this thread (vac lines, electrical connectors on the solenoid, etc) and see if that fixes it. If you think you've fixed it, you can either clear the code with your pocket scanner or disconnect the negative terminal on the battery for a bit. Again, a billion threads exist on this site as to how to do it.

Kozy

thanks man! I actually just cleared the code with a pocket scanner, it read p2070 p/d and just p2070 and the guy at advanced auto parts (who knows very little) said that pending usually means the code is trying to clear itself so i figured id clear it instead. Hopefully it doesnt come back on.

I checked the plugs/wires (which btw, are the coils the things that the "other end" of the wires connect to that isnt the spark plugs is like 10" towards the front of the car???). The wires were still a rather vibrant blue (I know this isnt a good indication of age) and when I removed the wire from the other end (not the spark plugs) the connection seemed VERY clean.

Man, honestly idk what the hell the problem is. Im gonna stop worrying about it soon honestly!

Kozy

and after a short 3 miles the CEL reappears...

Mr.Mango

iTrader: (2)

Take it to the dealer or follow the steps we provided and report back for your P2070

To answer your question yes those are the coils at the other side of the wire... If you dont know when they were changed replace all 4 coils, all 4 wires and all 4 plugs.

The vibration could be motor mounts, the dealer will know how to check them. Its quiet easy and a common problem with the 8.