P2070 code, but no other symptoms
12-18-2009, 06:56 PM
#51
Since you have the AEM you'll need to loosen the clamps for the couplers.
Once the clamps are loose, slide the piping towards the front of the car.
The very last coupler is attached to the throttle body.
You'll see a wire harness connecting to the left side of the throttle body.
Once the clamps are loose, slide the piping towards the front of the car.
The very last coupler is attached to the throttle body.
You'll see a wire harness connecting to the left side of the throttle body.
Last edited by Jon316G; 12-18-2009 at 07:04 PM.
vimeo
12-18-2009, 11:05 PM
#55
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Decarb in itself is not covered. But if you were to go in for "loss of power" or "engine stall" and they propose decarb, then it is covered. This is because these two issues have TSB explaining decarb as the solution. On the last page of TSB, you can see the warranty information which you have to point to. Hope this helps....I am planning on going in at the end of warranty period again to ask for a second decarb and new set of spark plugs :D
12-18-2009, 11:23 PM
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http://www.finishlineperformance.com...9-08-1929a.pdf
I found this TSB on the subject....pretty much explains what Jon's video showed. Do any of you guys know if the warranty info on the last page applies for 04 model with 54K miles on it?
I found this TSB on the subject....pretty much explains what Jon's video showed. Do any of you guys know if the warranty info on the last page applies for 04 model with 54K miles on it?
12-19-2009, 09:16 AM
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http://www.finishlineperformance.com...9-08-1929a.pdf
I found this TSB on the subject....pretty much explains what Jon's video showed. Do any of you guys know if the warranty info on the last page applies for 04 model with 54K miles on it?
I found this TSB on the subject....pretty much explains what Jon's video showed. Do any of you guys know if the warranty info on the last page applies for 04 model with 54K miles on it?
I love this car and all. But at the rate the parts are failing left and right, I'm probably gonna have to get rid of it soon. I've had to get new coils, plugs, plug wires, cat converter, and now this damn SSV, all within the last month or so. What's gonna be next? And my car just turned 36K miles. I can't imagine shelling out money for a shitload of parts @ 60K miles. I know it's a rotary, blah, blah, blah...but it's unacceptable to go 100K miles in this day and age without spending big bucks @ every 30K miles.
Sorry for the rant, but I'm just a little po'd.
12-19-2009, 09:18 AM
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Since you have the AEM you'll need to loosen the clamps for the couplers.
Once the clamps are loose, slide the piping towards the front of the car.
The very last coupler is attached to the throttle body.
You'll see a wire harness connecting to the left side of the throttle body.
Once the clamps are loose, slide the piping towards the front of the car.
The very last coupler is attached to the throttle body.
You'll see a wire harness connecting to the left side of the throttle body.
Thanks. I'll try to get to it sometime soon.
12-23-2009, 04:37 PM
#60
so it looks like i will need to replace some gaskets in order to remove a lot of the parts to gain access to the SSV Valve...if so, does anyone know of a list of parts needed to remove adn clean the SSV??
12-24-2009, 07:06 AM
#61
tksnobords- If you want to play it safe and replace gaskets, I would only worry about the thermostat gasket.
The ACV gasket isn't one to worry about, and the SSV shouldn't be a problem to reuse unless you deform it trying to slide the valve out (which I've done before).
But here are the part numbers (prices from OnlineMazdaParts.com):
Thermostat Gasket- N3H110153 ($3.91)
SSV Gasket- N3H420155 ($6.55)
The ACV gasket isn't one to worry about, and the SSV shouldn't be a problem to reuse unless you deform it trying to slide the valve out (which I've done before).
But here are the part numbers (prices from OnlineMazdaParts.com):
Thermostat Gasket- N3H110153 ($3.91)
SSV Gasket- N3H420155 ($6.55)
12-24-2009, 09:48 AM
#62
Nope...Your car is out of warranty, so it's not gonna be covered. My car is an 04 with 36K, but it's also out of warranty. I know that the stealership wanted over $900 to replace the SSV.
I love this car and all. But at the rate the parts are failing left and right, I'm probably gonna have to get rid of it soon. I've had to get new coils, plugs, plug wires, cat converter, and now this damn SSV, all within the last month or so.
I love this car and all. But at the rate the parts are failing left and right, I'm probably gonna have to get rid of it soon. I've had to get new coils, plugs, plug wires, cat converter, and now this damn SSV, all within the last month or so.
01-03-2010, 02:58 PM
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Hopefully not 
But I thought that last year when I fixed a friend's stuck SSV.
It lasted all summer and when the outside temps dropped, the valve started sticking again.
That's when I had to remove the valve and really clean it and the housing.
You have to consider that any form of "decarbing" or cleaning without removing the valve is only cleaning a small percentage of the valve.
So depending on how bad it is, it *could* come back later on.
But you might as well try "decarbing" the valve now and if it returns in the future, you know what needs to be done.
But I thought that last year when I fixed a friend's stuck SSV.
It lasted all summer and when the outside temps dropped, the valve started sticking again.
That's when I had to remove the valve and really clean it and the housing.
You have to consider that any form of "decarbing" or cleaning without removing the valve is only cleaning a small percentage of the valve.
So depending on how bad it is, it *could* come back later on.
But you might as well try "decarbing" the valve now and if it returns in the future, you know what needs to be done.
01-03-2010, 03:05 PM
#68
As I noted earlier... spraying any cleaner through the UIM is only a temporary fix and may not free up a really stuck valve.
When I first worked on this issue, I removed the UIM and sprayed right onto the SSV... that still wouldn't free it up.
If your valve is really sticking, I suggest removing it and cleaning the valve and housing.
Here is my DIY thread detailing this procedure and includes a video:
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-do-yourself-forum-73/diy-remove-ssv-beta-teaser-video-184663/
When I first worked on this issue, I removed the UIM and sprayed right onto the SSV... that still wouldn't free it up.
If your valve is really sticking, I suggest removing it and cleaning the valve and housing.
Here is my DIY thread detailing this procedure and includes a video:
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-do-yourself-forum-73/diy-remove-ssv-beta-teaser-video-184663/
01-03-2010, 03:32 PM
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As I noted earlier... spraying any cleaner through the UIM is only a temporary fix and may not free up a really stuck valve.
When I first worked on this issue, I removed the UIM and sprayed right onto the SSV... that still wouldn't free it up.
If your valve is really sticking, I suggest removing it and cleaning the valve and housing.
Here is my DIY thread detailing this procedure and includes a video:
https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?t=184663
When I first worked on this issue, I removed the UIM and sprayed right onto the SSV... that still wouldn't free it up.
If your valve is really sticking, I suggest removing it and cleaning the valve and housing.
Here is my DIY thread detailing this procedure and includes a video:
https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?t=184663
I appreciate you sending the link !
01-04-2010, 12:46 PM
#71
On the 1st page of this very thread (post 16) I linked to the video, and you replied right afterward
Only thing it doesn't show is testing the SSV solenoid, which is a little more detailed to test the switch when its energized and when its not.
I might create another DIY on testing that later...
And any vacuum pump will work... the MityVac is used for bleeding brakes, but it works well for other projects
Only thing it doesn't show is testing the SSV solenoid, which is a little more detailed to test the switch when its energized and when its not.
I might create another DIY on testing that later...
And any vacuum pump will work... the MityVac is used for bleeding brakes, but it works well for other projects
Last edited by Jon316G; 01-04-2010 at 12:48 PM.
01-04-2010, 03:22 PM
#73
But you will also notice that you need to apply voltage to the solenoid to activate the "switch".
You can use a vacuum pump if you like, the instructions above lists airflow (positive pressure), but you'll be utilizing vacuum (negative pressure) instead.
So the concept will be opposite when referring to the diagram above, or keep in mind that when you don't build-up vacuum, you have airflow (because the switch/pathway is open).
Last edited by Jon316G; 01-04-2010 at 03:24 PM.
01-05-2010, 08:24 AM
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Hi Jon,
now that the light started to come on more often, I decided to use the screw driver to test the sticky SSV. First few times, it felt like it was stuck and pushing with screw driver would unstuck it and the light would go off. Then I left the car out in the cold for a few days and the light came back on. This time around, I can't even move any parts with the screw driver. It seems like it's completely stuck now. The joints used to move this seem to be completely rusted.
Can I spray something on the rust to see if this is the problem? I am still little hisitant to take it to the dealer with all the stories posted here.
I still do not see any change in drivability. no loss of power or mileage at all. It feels almost as if the SSV were the appendix :D why is this?
now that the light started to come on more often, I decided to use the screw driver to test the sticky SSV. First few times, it felt like it was stuck and pushing with screw driver would unstuck it and the light would go off. Then I left the car out in the cold for a few days and the light came back on. This time around, I can't even move any parts with the screw driver. It seems like it's completely stuck now. The joints used to move this seem to be completely rusted.
Can I spray something on the rust to see if this is the problem? I am still little hisitant to take it to the dealer with all the stories posted here.
I still do not see any change in drivability. no loss of power or mileage at all. It feels almost as if the SSV were the appendix :D why is this?
01-05-2010, 08:31 AM
#75
Only good way to free the valve is to remove and clean it as I demonstrated in the video.
I've already tried the "spray cleaner onto the valve through the top" idea and it doesn't work that well because you are only spraying a small percentage of the valve.
It might free it up some to run a little bit longer, but as you encountered, it'll just return.
And if you take it to the dealer, they will not remove the valve as I demonstrated.
Instead, they will want to replace the whole lower intake manifold.
A couple hours of your time, the cost of carb cleaner, and some coolant is WAY cheaper than the dealer.
I've already tried the "spray cleaner onto the valve through the top" idea and it doesn't work that well because you are only spraying a small percentage of the valve.
It might free it up some to run a little bit longer, but as you encountered, it'll just return.
And if you take it to the dealer, they will not remove the valve as I demonstrated.
Instead, they will want to replace the whole lower intake manifold.
A couple hours of your time, the cost of carb cleaner, and some coolant is WAY cheaper than the dealer.