JPYRITZ

Ok so let new start by saying I'm kind of a noob when it comes to 8's. Bought my first 8 last may and have have no problems out of it. I absolutely love it minus the mpg but I have come to grips with that every time it hit that 9k mark and I hear that beautiful buzzer sound. I just hit 66k on the mileage and have done all the maintenance just recently. ie; plugs, plug wires, new redline tranny and dif flush and ofcoarse oil change that is religiously every 3k. Ok now to start with my problems. Three days ago I just finished changing out the rotors and all new pads all the way around, took her out to bed the brakes in real good and had no problems with her, felt really good and had great grip. Parked her and about an hour later I needed to go to the store started it up and bam it hit me Limp mode. Now like I said I'm new to the 8 and had neve seen this before. Plugged my obdII in and it gave me a p2102 code tac motor circut low. I jumped on here and started researching. I started by taking my throttle body off and cleaned it really well and polished it up. Reinstalled and ran codes again, nothing started her up and no limp mode, throttle response was awesome and it ran great. 13 miles down the road, limp mode hit me again. I pulled over and was letting her cool down alittle before I shut her down and that when my hood started billowing out steam. I opened the hood after shutdown and coolant was spewing out of the cap. I lost about half of my coolant and made a big a$$ mess all over my engine. I had it towed back to my house, where I played mad scientist trying to locate the problem. Radiator was good and clean no leaks, hoses were good, so I started taking off air box, well just the bottom of it, no stock air box, running aem intake. The battery and battery box. Noticed a **** ton of old battery acid/ corrosion on the fan and fan motor. Think that might have been the problem. Both fans turn freely by hand, I would refilled with coolant and start her back up to see if they both kick on but now I have a car I think is flooded lol because now it won't start. I tried the pull the fuel pump fuse trick, nothing. Tried the accelerator to the floor, nothing. Tried the pull the spark plugs let it dry out, nothing. It just wont start now. I'm at a loss now. Could the two be tied together at all or just by chance they are both gonna hit me at once? I need help from the rotary God out there. What's my next step.Oh I forgot to mention 05 BB 6MT only mod is the AEM intake and slotted and drilled rotors.

Harlan

iTrader: (3)

Keep trying the deflood procedure until she starts. Alternatively you could pull the plugs and the E-shaft sensor, then turn her over to dry out a few times, reinstall clean dry plugs and should start first try. Just hope and pray you didn't lose a coolant seal.

JPYRITZ

Coolant seal? Where would this happen at. When I popped the hood all the coolant was coming from under the resivor cap so I am assuming everything else is good, assuming. I figured I am gonna have to get a new cap due to this on not hold the seal, but under the amount of pressure I could understand that. Now to the Eshaft sensor, forgive me Luke I said before noob, is that around the main pulley? And how would I remove it? Thank you for ur help by the way.

Harlan

iTrader: (3)

The E-shaft sensor is kinda below the main pulley on the drives side. It takes a signal off the trigger wheel on the main pulley. All you have to do is pull the connector and the ECU will cut fuel and spark to the engine when it cranks.

The coolant seal I'm referring to is internal to the engine, when they blow they allow combustion gasses into the coolant loop. The can be quickly damaged if the car overheats and require a complete rebuild to replace. The only reason I bring this up is that
1. You overheated.
2. You can't start the engine. (Which happens when an engine with a blown coolant seal sits and coolant runs into the combustion chamber.)

When you get it running again and properly filled with coolant, wait until the engine is cool, remove the coolant reservoir cap then start the engine. If you see surging/bubbles out the small line returning to the reservoir you have a bad coolant seal. If the reservoir trys to boil over instantly when you start it, you have a really bad coolant seal.

JPYRITZ

Thanks I will give it a try and post back. Keeping my fingers crossed that, that isn't the problem

JPYRITZ

Nothing, still won't start and still at a loss, I think I am gonna have to break down and take her in to the shop. Hopefully I'll be able to find a good rotary guy locally to start digging around.

VOODOO8

If you do have a blown coolant seal, info on this thread may help: http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...p/t-11441.html.

Harlan

iTrader: (3)

Did you replace the e-shaft connector before you tried to start it again?

wcs

iTrader: (2)

First: Ho---leeeee-*******-wall-of-text-dude!
And you didn't even double space after the period.

Second: WTF is p2102 code tac motor circut low? https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.p...sfire+Detected

Need more detail but the overheating issue could be something as simple as a bad Thermostat