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Overheating!

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Old 06-18-2008, 10:11 PM
  #26  
sold the 8... :(
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^that post made me lol...best post.....ever
Old 06-18-2008, 11:13 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by MazdaManiac
Who is doing that?
The problem is a combination of factors:
  1. Constant A/C usage
There's your problem right there!

I'm surprised you didn't notice!



Mu ha ha.........................
Old 06-19-2008, 12:15 AM
  #28  
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I've had roughly the opposite situaion with my vehicle which probably makes the situation more frustrating. Granted, I'm running N/A unlike MM who has the added turbo and intercooler setup.

Easy, I think your trans temperatures might have something to do with it. I have been told that running the vehicle in sportronic mode tends to make it run hotter than just keeping it in drive. This was on a Mazda 6 though.

My current setup for cooling is as follows for reference:
1. Seibon vented hood
2. Race battery (removed tray)
3. Koyo Radiator
4. Distilled water w/ redline water wetter
5. Mazmart water pump
6. MM fan switch
7. 1.3 bar radiator cap

My temps with the heat have been around the 205 to 210 range at the most. The oil temperatures have been the bottle neck in my cooling system and often drive up my coolant temps.

I also have a fully gutted front bumper with wire mesh instead of the plastic.
Old 06-19-2008, 12:38 AM
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And life goes on.
As I stated before,, why should I have to do all this to car that should not be doing what it's doing in the first place. This car should be made to work in these temps. Mazda needs to figure this out and fix it. Otherwise not sell the car in warm climates. Like that would work.
An additional oil cooler and separate trans cooler would be nice. Might solve part of the problem, if not all.
Also not shifting in manual mode,,, Sorry but I just can't. I might as well be driving a Honda civic.
Oh and I want to see you guy's run around when it's 120 degrees out with the AC off.
Old 06-19-2008, 07:14 PM
  #30  
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good luck Easy, keep us posted
Old 06-19-2008, 07:15 PM
  #31  
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I say install the water pump, it's only going to HELP. you already have it, might as well.
If the engine should ever go, take it off, slap the OEM one back one. they'll never know.
Old 06-19-2008, 07:42 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by Jedi54
I say install the water pump, it's only going to HELP. you already have it, might as well.
If the engine should ever go, take it off, slap the OEM one back one. they'll never know.
*slap the OEM one back one.*

correction

*slap the OEM one back ON*

Old 06-19-2008, 08:02 PM
  #33  
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So I went to the dealer today and asked them what they found out from Mazda. .Well this is what they said. "Take the hood off". OK. SO they took my hood off and said to me to "Go drive around and see what happens". Now at this point in time I am thinking , wtf? this is it? OK I'll go drive around.
So off on my merry way I went.
Outside air temps 106. Car temps while in stop and go traffic 243 degrees.
Well this just eliminated all kinds of things. Not enough air flow,, not. I'll post some pics later when I get back to my computer. I'm hijacking MM's puter again.
Well I emailed the pics to the dealer. They will send them to "Techline"and I'll await a new trouble shooting scenario.
So they reinstalled my hood. I left thinking to myself,,, "that was fun".
Old 06-19-2008, 08:03 PM
  #34  
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OMFG!!!! I can't believe that was their genius plan!

What if it worked?! What would the have you do?! Take the hood off for the summer months???
Old 06-19-2008, 09:44 PM
  #35  
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rofl ! wow. what kind of *smart *** plan* was that ?

Why dont they just give you another car already? yeah Lemon law period is over, but at this rate. Mazda is just wasting their money to keep checking it.
Old 06-19-2008, 10:39 PM
  #36  
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Perhaps you have a blockage and the fluid is not recircuilating.
Old 06-19-2008, 11:35 PM
  #37  
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Learned something from this thread - Despite what everyone says the OEM water temp guage actually does work !!!!!

that ambient temp you have there is insane , no wonder your poor rotary can't hack the pace . Face it - you will have to do mods to keep it cool . Mazda will not be able to fix it .

Last edited by Brettus; 06-19-2008 at 11:39 PM.
Old 06-20-2008, 01:29 AM
  #38  
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You know Mazda has to look at all the variables in the system. So far they have changed all the elements in the cooling system. Rad, Coolant and the mixture, thermostat, waterpump and don't forget the engine a few times.

It just seems to me that the cooling system is just completely inadequate.

This is what I saw today during there testing procedure. It was about 108 degrees outside.



So I figure I will install the Mazmart waterpump this weekend. See what it does.

All in all I just hope that Mazda can learn from this so it doesn't happen to other people.
And if there any other people that are overheating I would like to know. All information is helpful to Mazda.
Old 06-20-2008, 01:33 AM
  #39  
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Unhappy

Sorry, Overheating = No Fun!
Old 06-20-2008, 04:15 AM
  #40  
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I'm 100% with you Erick that it shouldn't be up to the owner to mod their own vehicle to make it do what it should be doing already from the factory. Sure, Phoenix does see some pretty insane temperatures and combined with an already hot rotary it makes things worse.

Still, we can't ignore the fact that many other RX8's roll around Phoenix without any major cooling issues. It may or may not be something localized to your vehicle, but I would have expected Mazda to come up with something better than rolling around with your hood off. So what would have happened IF that would have worked?!? Are you supposed to drive without a HOOD ON?

I am curious if there is something to be investigated in regards to your transmission cooling. We've swapped motors so any localized motor issue would have to be eliminated. There's not much, if anything, left to rule out besides the tranny.

A pump install would certainly help rule out more issues. At the same time, I would be expecting Mazda to perform this trouble shooting.
Old 06-20-2008, 05:05 AM
  #41  
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Those numbers are pretty insane.

Hell with Mazda's flash, I've seen 105 Celsius(221 F !!!) when its only like 75 F outside.

They need to figure a way to get more air to move around the engine bay ... I think the way they position the A/C Condenser is just stupid, it block almost ALL of the direct air flow from the front to the Radiator ...
Old 06-20-2008, 07:58 AM
  #42  
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I hear ya Todd. If the engine is such a hot running package from the get go,,, then why didn't they make the cooling system more than just adequate? They knew the RX-7 was prone to overheating , that should have told them something.

Well I was checking the trans temps yesterday during all this and it seems to be running cool. At least when the car was at 220 the trans was at 210. Seemed to be about 10 degrees lower on the trans temp. Blasted tthe trans pan with my Infrared Temp Gun. I will look at that further though, at higher temps.
Old 06-20-2008, 11:50 AM
  #43  
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I think they should just give you another car.

They've replaced 4 engines on ur car already + all other stuff that they've replaced + Labor = probably cheaper to give you a brand new car.
Old 06-20-2008, 02:16 PM
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right nofans in front of the a/c condensor! Maybe in back of an oilcoller?
1- Roar Racing does not sit in traffic, the study mentioned was from Mazda research not Roar Racing. It was a Roar Racing driver that informed me of this.

2- shake a bottle of redline water wetter then shake a bottle of the DEI. Now notice a difference. The redline will foam like crazy , the dei doesnt---foam is not good in a cooling system.
3- The thing about electric water pump is it is not dependant on engine rpm --so the flow is there even at idle/slow speed and even at shut down the pump can be programed to run for a time to combant heat soak. if 55 gallons a minute cant cool it then the big blocks with 700hp need to be told.
4- agreed the shrouds/fans are good , turning the fans on early is really good---the front air entry area is not sealed well and there is leakage present. note of interest-- if you use the rb air scoop you have a recirculation swirl at the top of the radiator further reducing efficiency.
5- also agree to get rid of all the blockage present.

I wonder if the a/c condensor was moved (to where --i have NO idea) then how much would that help?

A water meth system can save the internals--reducing iats and egts--but a owner of the 8 should not have to do that.
I saw a 2009 a/t car yesterday---it still has only one oil cooler. And the grill , the actual openings form the shape of a grin. Damn.
feel for yall Bro.
olddragger
Old 06-20-2008, 03:16 PM
  #45  
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Easy, maybe MM can look into a cooler running engine tune for you? In a piston engine, backing off spark advance and running a little richer did wonders for dropping temps (not that 8s need to run richer).

Just an idea.

Another thing I didn't see was running a more open exhaust may lower temps too. Still have the cat in there?

Look like everything else was covered, but my first vote would be to get the transmission its own cooler for both the tranny and the engine's sake. Should be one of the cheaper things to try too.

And yeah, Mazda should have / should still fix this issue. But corporations are bureaucracies, and if they don't have it in the rules book they will not do it unless pushed hard.

My summer cooling doesn't seem to be too bad, with all the SUVs staying home. But I don't drive that much lately.

Last edited by jeffe19007; 06-20-2008 at 03:24 PM.
Old 06-20-2008, 03:18 PM
  #46  
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random question easy: you got any other A/T owners in your area? I'm wondering if they have similar readings
Old 06-20-2008, 03:26 PM
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Does this run hot in all conditions, idling, hard acceleration and highway cruising? When is it at it's worst?

Pressure test the entire system to ensure there are no leaks including your expansion tank and pressure cap. This will tell you whether there's something wrong internally with the motor as well. Check your fan operation and ensure that they are both coming on when they should. Bad fan/s could have damaged all of the motors you've had.

Lastly, I do have the R side factory coolers and lines in stock, brand new for those autos that would like to enhance their cooling.

Paul.
Old 06-20-2008, 03:59 PM
  #48  
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I am having some overheating issues also but my 8 is pretty much down (except for real short trips) until Ray and Jeff get here so I can't do too much testing.
Old 06-20-2008, 04:58 PM
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oh oh, what happened Phil?
Old 06-20-2008, 06:00 PM
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Originally Posted by nycgps
I think they should just give you another car.

They've replaced 4 engines on ur car already + all other stuff that they've replaced + Labor = probably cheaper to give you a brand new car.
I have two pages of single line warranty repairs on this car. A new car would be nice but it isn't going to happen. Some day I'll copy the list and show you all. Nearly double what I paid for the car.


Originally Posted by Jedi54
random question easy: you got any other A/T owners in your area? I'm wondering if they have similar readings
I was PM'ing a local girl with an 06 AT. She say's the car is not liking the heat. I need to call her and talk about it more though.

Originally Posted by Mazmart
Does this run hot in all conditions, idling, hard acceleration and highway cruising? When is it at it's worst?

Pressure test the entire system to ensure there are no leaks including your expansion tank and pressure cap. This will tell you whether there's something wrong internally with the motor as well. Check your fan operation and ensure that they are both coming on when they should. Bad fan/s could have damaged all of the motors you've had.

Paul.
As far as when it does it,, stop and go traffic, getting up to cruising speed after entering freeway via a metered ramp. lower RPM's tend to keep it cooler if you can not change throttle position, kinda hard. Hard acceleration,, forget it. It's like lighting a fire under it. Any load on the engine will raise the temps.
Driving home from work today 115 degrees out side, 3.5 miles home, 1 stop light nothing over 3000 rpm. Coolant went from 161 to 218. I did the same drive after the dealer yesterday and it went to 226
The entire cooling system is new, including the radiator, water pump, coolant, thermostat, and overflow bottle and cap.
The cooling system has been checked and rechecked. The fans are set to come on at 180 and 185.
Paul I want to install your water pump I have and am waiting for a response from Mazda on it. They have heard of your pump too. As I mentioned before, I do not want to install it and then the engine dies and they say SOL.


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