MS and AEM CAI warning to all!!
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Joined: Oct 2007
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From: Ajax, Ontario
Thumper, try my winter routine, which I did last year and has had no problems with MS CAI.
Once a month, use railless/touchless car wash at Sunoco (cleans the best). Not all railless/touchless are created equal. I have tried Esso's, Petro Canada's and Shell's, and I can say Sunoco's ultimate wash is the best one. You will be inclined to feel bad and a waste of money because you know it'll snow tomorrow, or is already snowing like crazy, but don't think that way. The point of this is to wash your car even in the winter to clean the **** off.
Approximately, at the end of each week, go to a gas station with self-wash bays that allow you to wash your own car. DO NOT wash the car there, but simply, use $2 spray rinse from top to bottom the car with hot water. When spraying, spray at 45 deg angles. Try not to spray perpendicular to the paint surface. Then spend another $2 if you're slow, and dedicate that time to spray the wheel wells and under car.
Areas to watch for when spraying are exactly the areas where you see rust develop on RX8's.. i.e. the lip portion of the wheel well, and the front side of the rear wheel well. The section along the sides of the car under belly.
Don't forget once a year to crawl underneath your car and apply a coat of BLUE MAGIC to your ENTIRE CAT-BACK EXHAUST. That coat should last you a year of protection as I have done.
Once a month, use railless/touchless car wash at Sunoco (cleans the best). Not all railless/touchless are created equal. I have tried Esso's, Petro Canada's and Shell's, and I can say Sunoco's ultimate wash is the best one. You will be inclined to feel bad and a waste of money because you know it'll snow tomorrow, or is already snowing like crazy, but don't think that way. The point of this is to wash your car even in the winter to clean the **** off.
Approximately, at the end of each week, go to a gas station with self-wash bays that allow you to wash your own car. DO NOT wash the car there, but simply, use $2 spray rinse from top to bottom the car with hot water. When spraying, spray at 45 deg angles. Try not to spray perpendicular to the paint surface. Then spend another $2 if you're slow, and dedicate that time to spray the wheel wells and under car.
Areas to watch for when spraying are exactly the areas where you see rust develop on RX8's.. i.e. the lip portion of the wheel well, and the front side of the rear wheel well. The section along the sides of the car under belly.
Don't forget once a year to crawl underneath your car and apply a coat of BLUE MAGIC to your ENTIRE CAT-BACK EXHAUST. That coat should last you a year of protection as I have done.
Leave the de-carboning to high RPMs/seafoam/directly injecting water into the tb/manifold...
https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.p...take+water+MAF
I didn't read this thread, just decided to link to a similar topic with good info.
Fried MAF -> Fried Cat -> Low Compression motor -> New motor -> (possible) Headaches
https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.p...take+water+MAF
I didn't read this thread, just decided to link to a similar topic with good info.
Fried MAF -> Fried Cat -> Low Compression motor -> New motor -> (possible) Headaches
notice if the computer does not sense the same code for 2 drive cycles. it will switch the light off, then another 3-4 cycles, it will be off from the memory.
so you dont really need to reset it, but ahh whatever
so you dont really need to reset it, but ahh whatever
all cold air intakes that sit that low can have this problem..
this is also why there is a specific warning in the MS installation manual about driving the car in the rain/puddles/ etc.. this is why.
this is also why there is a specific warning in the MS installation manual about driving the car in the rain/puddles/ etc.. this is why.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Oct 2007
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From: Ajax, Ontario
It's touchless they don't scratch and great way to get the salt off in the winter.
I'm gonna try a pizza box to put over it, to shield it before washing it next time. See if that works
I'm gonna try a pizza box to put over it, to shield it before washing it next time. See if that works
The Local Idiot
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 406
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From: Big D, Texas
I really wouldn't recommend doing this. If you get too much water in the combustion chamber at once, your engine will not be happy about it. I've heard some people claim a rotary can't by hydrolocked, but frankly that's a load of crap; the engine might not stop turning entirely like a piston engine, but the additional force on the apex seals, E-shaft bearings, etc. should not be dismissed.
I havent tried this before, but considering its an 04 should i notice some improvements with idle or acceleration?
zoom fuckin zoom
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 386
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From: PA, USA
my son washed his aem cai filter didnt let it dry sprayed oil on it then reinstalled and started car, after a few seconds it missed then backfired really loud and stalled.
plugs were soaked and fouled, i took all 4 out threw em away and told him to let it sit and dry out. figured he could suffer a day and learn from his mistakes. New plugs and it fired right up. His AEM is on a na Talon (didnt want to get him a fast 1st car to kill himself with) and sits right where a fog light should sit, way too low imo. I told him to hacksaw it off where it turns down out of the bay. Hydrolock is alot ruffer on a piston engine
plugs were soaked and fouled, i took all 4 out threw em away and told him to let it sit and dry out. figured he could suffer a day and learn from his mistakes. New plugs and it fired right up. His AEM is on a na Talon (didnt want to get him a fast 1st car to kill himself with) and sits right where a fog light should sit, way too low imo. I told him to hacksaw it off where it turns down out of the bay. Hydrolock is alot ruffer on a piston engine
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