HERO

iTrader: (3)

Backstory:

It's an 04 RX-8 with a bit over 60k miles. I noticed it took a little longer to start before driving it off. After it was driven for a good 20 minutes or so (was completely warmed up) I decided to give it a redline from 1st leaving from a red light. I started off normally and gave it more gas as the rpms increased (I didnt just floor it from the start). When it was around 7.5-8k rpm the engine's sound changed to a much more mechanical VRRRRRRR type sound and the engine immediately shut off and the dash lights came on. The rpms slowly went to zero and I let the car coast to a stop. After that it wouldnt crank over.

I had the car towed and did the steps for deflooding an engine just in case. After doing so, I went to start her up and after about a second of cranking the engine just locked up remained that way.

Not sure where to go from here. Was thinking I should take out the spark plugs and see if there are any fluids in there and afterwards seeing if the crank pulley can be turned manually. The crank pully is the really big lower one right? Which direction should it be turned?

Thanks in advance!

wcs

iTrader: (2)

Honestly that sounds like a catastrophic failure.
You can take the plugs out if you want and check for chunks of broken stuff.

shadycrew31

iTrader: (6)

something went boom, not sure what though theres a few possibilities.

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

Yes, the front pulley bolt is a big one, 21mm i think (maybe 19, I get my cars confused there). You can turn it either way. Turning will be easier with the plugs out, and with the plugs out and the transmission in neutral it should rotate fairly easily, maybe just a bit harder than the amount of work needed to turn the steering wheel, though it will be a "lumpy" force distribution as the rotors move through the compression/expansion phases. If you are having to put quite a bit of muscle into it, then something is preventing it from rotating.


Another option may be that your clutch shattered. When I had a clutch shatter at ~8.5k (it was already well worn at 89,000 miles), the shrapnel sliced into my starter housing, and the metal acted like tabs against the flywheel gear preventing the engine from turning over more than a few degrees. I'm not saying that this is what happened with you, but random unlucky events like that are possible. How does your clutch pedal feel? Normal? You can check for a clutch failure by pulling the starter.

wcs

iTrader: (2)

bump?
Update?
Please?

HERO

iTrader: (3)

Sorry for the delay. I've had other matters to attend to that popped up on top of the car issues...

I tried turning the pulley but it wouldn't budge in either direction.... Then I had someone come and pull the codes. After doing so he deleted them and tried cranking it a few times consecutively. After a maybe 10 clicks with no engine movement, the motor started to crank again!! I guess whatever had it lodged came undone? It still wont crank over to start, however.

The codes pulled were: U1900, P2070, U0073

I did some research and P2070 says that the SSV is stuck open. Would that stop it from starting?

Also, I was going to do a compression test and was wondering if the SSV being stuck open will affect the results in any way.

As for the clutch, the last time I was with the car I dont remember it feeling any differently. I'll check again when I go see my car.

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

No, the SSV has nothing to do with the ability to start the car. However, it is possible that the reason for the SSV sticking open could have a very tertiary involvement in the motor problems. Example, if you have a heavily carboned engine and you were carbon locked (where a chunk of carbon comes free and wedges itself between the housing and a seal), you probably also would have a heavily carboned SSV valve.

Still on the recommended list:
Pull the plugs and look for debris in the engine
pull the starter and look for debris in the bellhousing