More overheating issues
06-25-2011, 08:01 AM
#28
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Dannobre or Mazurfer, I do have an accessport but have no freakin idea how to lower the fan on speed. I'd really like to know how you did it. I've only had it for a while and managed to install the Stage 1 mod at first. I put it back to stock when it started overheating. I would imagine the altitude could have something to do with it. Leaner/hotter makes sense, but would it make that much difference. I've spotted a couple 8's in my area but I can never seem to get close enough to one of them to pull them over and have a conversation with them about their car.
Anyways, if one of you guys can teach me how to lower the fan on timing that may help a bunch, even with the new rad. I pulled into my garage yesterday afternoon at 400pm and shut it down and the fans ran 7 minutes before they stopped. The temp needle was just left of center (I know it's not exactly accurate, but I didn't have the access hooked up at the time. I was afraid to look at the actual temp
)
Thanks
Jim
Anyways, if one of you guys can teach me how to lower the fan on timing that may help a bunch, even with the new rad. I pulled into my garage yesterday afternoon at 400pm and shut it down and the fans ran 7 minutes before they stopped. The temp needle was just left of center (I know it's not exactly accurate, but I didn't have the access hooked up at the time. I was afraid to look at the actual temp
)Thanks
Jim
06-25-2011, 06:47 PM
#30
Rockie Mountain Newbie
Hey Jim,
It was a pleasure to meet you today, and get a chance to talk, and look over your car.
If you don't mind terribly, I'll share what I found with everyone on here.
After taking a drive with Jim in his '07, we immediately had the temperature skyrocket up into the 240 range after a short distance (maybe 2 miles) after he got over to my place with his fully warmed up car. That was with the a/c running.
As soon as we turned off the a/c, the temp dropped right down into the normal range (203 to 220 depending on traffic, and speed, plus amount of spurs we were digging into her sides), normally sticking around 208 at highway speeds in 6th gear, or 216 in 4th gear in normal traffic.
This lead me to think that the cooling system isn't the issue at all, and that the fault now lies in the a/c system.
When we got back over to my house, I hooked up a car of a/c refrigerant that I own that has a pressure gauge built into it. Not professional by any means, but its the best we have on hand.
Just hooking it up, I could see that the pressure was high with the vehicle shut off. Once we started the car, and had the a/c running, it was at the border of the yellow alert zone and the red warning zone, which according to the gauge on the refrigerant, is 65 psi. The normal zone is between 25 and 45 psi.
So, I have recommended to Jim to take his car to a shop that specializes in automotive a/c systems, and have them check to see if the system is over pressurized, or if there's a faulty part of the a/c system that needs attention.
I noticed that in the service manual for the RX-8, the 4th item in the troubleshooting chart for Cooling System Concerns - Overheating, it says right there - Excessive A/C System Pressure, so I'm fairly certain that I'm pointing Jim on the right path to get his car running right.
Any additional thoughts?
BC.
It was a pleasure to meet you today, and get a chance to talk, and look over your car.
If you don't mind terribly, I'll share what I found with everyone on here.
After taking a drive with Jim in his '07, we immediately had the temperature skyrocket up into the 240 range after a short distance (maybe 2 miles) after he got over to my place with his fully warmed up car. That was with the a/c running.
As soon as we turned off the a/c, the temp dropped right down into the normal range (203 to 220 depending on traffic, and speed, plus amount of spurs we were digging into her sides), normally sticking around 208 at highway speeds in 6th gear, or 216 in 4th gear in normal traffic.
This lead me to think that the cooling system isn't the issue at all, and that the fault now lies in the a/c system.
When we got back over to my house, I hooked up a car of a/c refrigerant that I own that has a pressure gauge built into it. Not professional by any means, but its the best we have on hand.
Just hooking it up, I could see that the pressure was high with the vehicle shut off. Once we started the car, and had the a/c running, it was at the border of the yellow alert zone and the red warning zone, which according to the gauge on the refrigerant, is 65 psi. The normal zone is between 25 and 45 psi.
So, I have recommended to Jim to take his car to a shop that specializes in automotive a/c systems, and have them check to see if the system is over pressurized, or if there's a faulty part of the a/c system that needs attention.
I noticed that in the service manual for the RX-8, the 4th item in the troubleshooting chart for Cooling System Concerns - Overheating, it says right there - Excessive A/C System Pressure, so I'm fairly certain that I'm pointing Jim on the right path to get his car running right.
Any additional thoughts?
BC.
06-25-2011, 07:16 PM
#31
Rockie Mountain Newbie
Jim,
As a follow up, I just hooked up the same gauge to my car, ran the a/c, and the pressure was at the high end of normal, 45 psi.
So your car is definitely over pressurized, or something is causing it to be over pressurized.
BC.
As a follow up, I just hooked up the same gauge to my car, ran the a/c, and the pressure was at the high end of normal, 45 psi.
So your car is definitely over pressurized, or something is causing it to be over pressurized.
BC.
06-26-2011, 06:41 AM
#32
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I would try this first if I was him, before getting another radiator.............that's for certain.
Last edited by Mazurfer; 06-26-2011 at 07:02 AM.
06-26-2011, 08:33 AM
#33
It is easy to see if the A/C is your problem...remove the belt and see if the overheating goes away 
Much less likely than an actual cooling system problem though
Did they actually pull your water pump and thermostat out?
I have seem a couple of OEM water pumps with the impellers almost gone from corrosion...
Much less likely than an actual cooling system problem though
Did they actually pull your water pump and thermostat out?
I have seem a couple of OEM water pumps with the impellers almost gone from corrosion...
06-26-2011, 09:27 AM
#34
nice find on the a/c pressure man--good work. Whether it is the cause or not , if that is high then it needs to be fixed.
I do want to say one thing 220F ect is not normal--its too high.
Look at the secondary radiator set up. Cheap==works and easy to do if you can handle a couple of tools. Also follow the other good advice posted. Secondary will work if the oem coolant system is functioning properly
I need to do a DIY thread dont I?
I do want to say one thing 220F ect is not normal--its too high.
Look at the secondary radiator set up. Cheap==works and easy to do if you can handle a couple of tools. Also follow the other good advice posted. Secondary will work if the oem coolant system is functioning properly
I need to do a DIY thread dont I?
06-27-2011, 01:11 PM
#35
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My neighbor checked my AC this morning and it was hugely overserviced which put a drag on the engine also. It don't cycle as often now and seems to still put out o.k. My right center AC vent is at 40 degrees while the other three around 60-70 degrees. Whassup wit dat? My neighbor says my heater may not be shutting off completely allowing warm air to mix with the AC air. Any ideas on that?
06-28-2011, 07:33 PM
#36
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My neighbor checked my AC this morning and it was hugely overserviced which put a drag on the engine also. It don't cycle as often now and seems to still put out o.k. My right center AC vent is at 40 degrees while the other three around 60-70 degrees. Whassup wit dat? My neighbor says my heater may not be shutting off completely allowing warm air to mix with the AC air. Any ideas on that?
Here are the two things:
1.) There is a blockage in that side. It's been known to happen. Hell people have even had rats and squirrels make homes in the airbox and other places. Not sure how'd they'd get into the duct system, but might be worth a peek.
When you were fixing what you were doing, you didn't leave a rag in there somewhere did you?
2.) If you were messing around in the dash area at anytime, did you happen to mis-align and vent ducts or anything? The manual actually says.....check to see if the duct system is installed in the car! WTF?
Then I thought of number 3.
3.) Long shot...........have you checked the cabin filter? Who knows, maybe that's it? Maybe one side is blocked and not letting air through to that side????????
You can try the A/C reset, and if it works.......good for you! Just remember you will have to do it everytime you have the battery disconnected for any length of time.
RX8 AC reset
1. Make sure the car is off AND the HVAC fan is off AND the A/C on/off button is off.
2. Press and hold the front defroster (on the left) AND air source (recirc/fresh air) buttons
3. Continue pressing the buttons in step 2 and turn the key to ACC for 3 seconds
4. Continue pressing the buttons in step 2 and further turn the key to ON (NOT START) for 3 sec.
5. Verify the programming update by observing the REAR defroster LED blink 3 times.
6. Release the two buttons from step 2 and start the car.
Don't think it's gonna work as you have some other issue, but worth a try.
Also, you could try some searches on this site or use google and maybe run across something????
Last edited by Mazurfer; 06-28-2011 at 07:46 PM.
06-30-2011, 10:05 AM
#37
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Thanks again BC. Pleasure to meet you. The eng temp is still getting high, albeit not as fast or as often. Lots more power since lowering the A/C fill. It's not working the engine as hard now. I'll put a new cabin filter in this weekend. Now the stupid glove box don't want to go back in as easy as it came out. I'll spend more time with it. Can't be rocket science. I have an appt to get the radiator changed next Wednesday. I'm thinking seriously about putting a good water pump in it at the same time. ??? Damn this is getting pricey...
06-30-2011, 07:51 PM
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I don't have it but I heard the mazmart water pump is quite superior in design to the stock one. Just a consideration. Also just curious but do you not feel comfortable putting the radiator in and water pump? I put a radiator in my tacoma having never done it before with no instructions, just did what made sense when I took it apart. Obviously this might be a bit more complicated but there's probably a DIY, I'm pretty sure there's also one for the water pump, and whether you do it yourself or have someone else do it, if you're going to do both radiator and water pump you might want to do them at the same time. Again just some suggestions, good luck.
06-30-2011, 08:12 PM
#39
weeeeeeeeee
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I'm FI'd and my water temps coming off the ECU (same as would be reported by the AP) have not gone mu h over 200 in the hottest of weather. 240 is really efen scary but it's obvious you already know that.
Your oil temps got to be through the roof too. At 200 coolant temps I can get my oil up to 210-215.... granted I've got both coolant and oil running through my turbo but the type of load you must be generating (if I follow the current line of thinking correctly) has got to be translating to insane oil temps too.
Get your oil changed. Hopefully it hasn't cakked up on you.
Your oil temps got to be through the roof too. At 200 coolant temps I can get my oil up to 210-215.... granted I've got both coolant and oil running through my turbo but the type of load you must be generating (if I follow the current line of thinking correctly) has got to be translating to insane oil temps too.
Get your oil changed. Hopefully it hasn't cakked up on you.
Last edited by ShellDude; 06-30-2011 at 08:16 PM.
07-01-2011, 06:58 AM
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Thanks again BC. Pleasure to meet you. The eng temp is still getting high, albeit not as fast or as often. Lots more power since lowering the A/C fill. It's not working the engine as hard now. I'll put a new cabin filter in this weekend. Now the stupid glove box don't want to go back in as easy as it came out. I'll spend more time with it. Can't be rocket science. I have an appt to get the radiator changed next Wednesday. I'm thinking seriously about putting a good water pump in it at the same time. ??? Damn this is getting pricey...
Do the same when putting back in.
I think that's the trick.
Seems like you wouldn't have to do so, but in order for it to line up properly, I think you need to do so.
It's been awhile since I've done it, so I might not recall exactly........but try that.
07-01-2011, 10:35 AM
#41
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Hi Reaver, Thanks for the reply. It's not that I can't do it. I simply don't want to. I've been turning wrenches for 40 years and it gets old after a while. I don't want to deal with coolant all over the garage floor, nor the busted knuckles. I'm a retired Air Force maintenance guy and an A&P Mechanic. I wrenched on military and commercial airplanes for years, crawling thru fuel cells, vertical/horizontal stabilizers, hell holes, etc. I've fixed my own cars forever; rebuilt engines, pulled trannys etc, etc. Ya just get burned out after a while. I'd simply rather pay someone to do it. I'm leaning pretty close to changing the water pump at the same time. Probably will.
Mazurfer, the problem with the glove box is not squeezing the sides. When I put the cupped ends over the little bars at the base the latch mechanism on the dash is misaligned with the door latch. It's like the door is too high. I'll figure it out soon enough. Just haven't had the time. I'll get to it tomorrow.
Shelldude, I definately will change the oil with the rad and pump. Thanks to all for the imput. Gotta luv this forum.
Oh yeah! I spoke to a straight talking Mazda maintenance supervisor yesterday about the a/c. He has a Mazda also, (3 or 5, can't remember) He says the a/c systems on these cars suck. It takes his about 15 minutes in the hot sun to cool down. He has a 40 minute commute from home to his dealership and says his a/c doesn't really cool the cabin down until about halfway to work. Says the dash gets above 150 degrees and it takes forever to cool down the ductwork.
Mazurfer, the problem with the glove box is not squeezing the sides. When I put the cupped ends over the little bars at the base the latch mechanism on the dash is misaligned with the door latch. It's like the door is too high. I'll figure it out soon enough. Just haven't had the time. I'll get to it tomorrow.
Shelldude, I definately will change the oil with the rad and pump. Thanks to all for the imput. Gotta luv this forum.
Oh yeah! I spoke to a straight talking Mazda maintenance supervisor yesterday about the a/c. He has a Mazda also, (3 or 5, can't remember) He says the a/c systems on these cars suck. It takes his about 15 minutes in the hot sun to cool down. He has a 40 minute commute from home to his dealership and says his a/c doesn't really cool the cabin down until about halfway to work. Says the dash gets above 150 degrees and it takes forever to cool down the ductwork.
Last edited by oojimmyc; 07-01-2011 at 10:40 AM.
07-01-2011, 05:34 PM
#42
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Hi Reaver, Thanks for the reply. It's not that I can't do it. I simply don't want to. I've been turning wrenches for 40 years and it gets old after a while. I don't want to deal with coolant all over the garage floor, nor the busted knuckles. I'm a retired Air Force maintenance guy and an A&P Mechanic. I wrenched on military and commercial airplanes for years, crawling thru fuel cells, vertical/horizontal stabilizers, hell holes, etc. I've fixed my own cars forever; rebuilt engines, pulled trannys etc, etc. Ya just get burned out after a while. I'd simply rather pay someone to do it. I'm leaning pretty close to changing the water pump at the same time. Probably will.
Mazurfer, the problem with the glove box is not squeezing the sides. When I put the cupped ends over the little bars at the base the latch mechanism on the dash is misaligned with the door latch. It's like the door is too high. I'll figure it out soon enough. Just haven't had the time. I'll get to it tomorrow.
Shelldude, I definately will change the oil with the rad and pump. Thanks to all for the imput. Gotta luv this forum.
Oh yeah! I spoke to a straight talking Mazda maintenance supervisor yesterday about the a/c. He has a Mazda also, (3 or 5, can't remember) He says the a/c systems on these cars suck. It takes his about 15 minutes in the hot sun to cool down. He has a 40 minute commute from home to his dealership and says his a/c doesn't really cool the cabin down until about halfway to work. Says the dash gets above 150 degrees and it takes forever to cool down the ductwork.
Mazurfer, the problem with the glove box is not squeezing the sides. When I put the cupped ends over the little bars at the base the latch mechanism on the dash is misaligned with the door latch. It's like the door is too high. I'll figure it out soon enough. Just haven't had the time. I'll get to it tomorrow.
Shelldude, I definately will change the oil with the rad and pump. Thanks to all for the imput. Gotta luv this forum.
Oh yeah! I spoke to a straight talking Mazda maintenance supervisor yesterday about the a/c. He has a Mazda also, (3 or 5, can't remember) He says the a/c systems on these cars suck. It takes his about 15 minutes in the hot sun to cool down. He has a 40 minute commute from home to his dealership and says his a/c doesn't really cool the cabin down until about halfway to work. Says the dash gets above 150 degrees and it takes forever to cool down the ductwork.
Oh......don't have to tell a Florida boy how hot it can get in there!
Use a sun sheild it will help! 
07-01-2011, 06:43 PM
#43
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Talk about "Damn the bad luck". I was sitting in traffic at 1232 pm today and the cars ahead moved forward as did I. Then this dizzy b*tch behind me pulled forward in her little eagle talon and rear-ended me while laughing and visiting with her other four friends in her car. The plastic wrap around in the rear has a few holes poked in it and i'm sure the bumper underneath is screwed. Dammit man! Luckily she had insurance. Trashed her front end on the pos talon though. It was squirting green juice all over the place when the wrecker got there. Her insurance company told me to take it to my favorite body shop next week and get it repaired. Unfortunately now if I go to sell it in the future it'll have a freakin carfax report on it. OH Well 
07-02-2011, 03:09 AM
#44
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Talk about "Damn the bad luck". I was sitting in traffic at 1232 pm today and the cars ahead moved forward as did I. Then this dizzy b*tch behind me pulled forward in her little eagle talon and rear-ended me while laughing and visiting with her other four friends in her car. The plastic wrap around in the rear has a few holes poked in it and i'm sure the bumper underneath is screwed. Dammit man! Luckily she had insurance. Trashed her front end on the pos talon though. It was squirting green juice all over the place when the wrecker got there. Her insurance company told me to take it to my favorite body shop next week and get it repaired. Unfortunately now if I go to sell it in the future it'll have a freakin carfax report on it. OH Well Also I understand what you're saying about getting worn out on it. Best of luck and sorry to hear about your accident.
07-02-2011, 01:29 PM
#45
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[quote=Reaver;4020310]Damn, it's crazy how being rear ended like that would require a new water pump/thermostat/radiator....just kidding of course
Yep!
Yep!
03-22-2012, 04:02 PM
#46
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Ok I have a similar problem. My temp needle on my dash stays to the left of center but I look up and see that its over heating. Underneath the car there is coolant dripping. What would be the first/cheapest thing to look into?
Also I just got my car started from being flooded out. Could that have caused something to go wrong? My car had never over heated in the 3 years I've had it before.
Also I just got my car started from being flooded out. Could that have caused something to go wrong? My car had never over heated in the 3 years I've had it before.
03-22-2012, 04:04 PM
#47
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My temp needle on my dash stays to the left of center but I look up and see that its over heating.
Needle just to the left of center is normal.
03-22-2012, 04:13 PM
#49
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You probably have a failing thermostat. The coolant temp sensor is only on one side of the thermostat, and you could be having the coolant overheating on the other side, but with a stuck thermostat, it isn't circulating the coolant for the temp sensor to see it.