have you tried resetting your ecu? It's helped with some of my issues on a number of occasions

 

By reset you mean stomp on the brake pedal 20 times? Ya I feel like I've done that almost a 100 times now, no effect even after driving awhile.

Also I've unplugged the battery too had to replace the negative terminal but still the same

 

Are those pictures from after you replaced gaskets and/or hoses you sprayed with brake clean?

 

That is a few days after I sprayed with brake clean, I have not yet replaced the gaskets I just ordered replacement gaskets the other day should be here probably by next week if not tomorrow. I do have a spare upper intake manifold that I threw on (I bought one because the seals on my EVAP purge valve not the solenoid got tore up and I couldn't find just those seals) and it actually seemed to bring the maf sensor rating up just a bit but I'm still idle hunting (the spare had used gaskets that weren't as smashing as mine) I'll check again after I get the new seals installed, I also noticed a whistle coming from the engine it sounds a lot like if you take the fuel jet air nozzle hose off the intake so maybe there's a vacuum leak elsewhere? I've also fully pulled my vacuum hoses and all of them are not cracked, torn, etc.

 

so a couple of things
I did do a compression test and the results were not good...

2: I found my vacuum leak, I did a smoke test and my ssv was leaking turns out it was missing 1 screw that holds that metal plate (In the inside that sits on the shaft) against the ssv plate, I'll see if I can find a pic. fixed that car runs perfect!

now as for my compression

these results are from a rotary compression tester I bought, I should note that since my ssv wasn't working I couldn't actually redline my engine idk if that will affect compression or not.

results:

Front Rotor: 84, 82, 84 (PSI)

Rear Rotor: 81, 89, 90 (PSI)

This is the corrected reading at 250RPM (Upgraded starter)

I did get the upgraded starter before this, mainly because my old starter was starting to get weak even for cold starts and now both starts are basically instant.

I do not have compression symptoms yet but am already saving for a rebuild.

Please note that the tester I got does not support the barometer so It may be off since I live in missouri.

the exact area where I live I'm about 922 feet above sea level.

 

Sounds reasonable. It's a borderline engine, might go a while before it starts showing symptoms, or it could start tomorrow. You can probably stretch it out with premix, extra oil does provide some extra sealing. The good news is you don't have to rush to replace it, I guess?

 

I took it to work today, and I noticed a slower start on hot but also forgot to hook my alternator up and my battery died after trying to restart it I've hooked the cable up and tightened it during my lunch I'll get the battery jumped take it home charge it and see how it runs.

Also it could be my coils too, I have oreily import directs. I have old oems but they were worn out. I don't remember if I said I had new oems but I thought these were OEM but they just said oe equivalent.

I guess my next step is OEM coils. U
I know it has new plugs and wires.

Anything else I could try, I've been using premix from Walmart the 2 cycle oil from the auto section, should I order the Mazda brand?

What's the name of it again?

 

There's no Mazda premix. Any JASO FD rated 2 stroke is good.

 

Would idemitsu work? I've heard of a lot of people using that.

And what do you mean by extra oil? Or did you just mean premixing?

 

Yes Idemitsu is fine just expensive. Look up Lucas semi synthetic JASO FD oil. It's pretty common.

Extra oil from premix, yep.

 

I noticed my hard hot starts, was my starter was failing, I had found a starter (Upgraded) on amazon but it lasted about a month when I found out about a week ago that it had melted the wires (STARTER not the wiring harness) going from the actual starter solenoid to the starter housing so I contacted the seller and was able to get a refund, not doing that again, I got the oem back on and it still hot starts fast, within a second.

Also have been using lucas FD rated Premix and so far it's running great!

one issue though, Awhile ago I lost an ac pipe (Well it got a hole in it) it was a certain pipe that I couldn't find used, so I had to order it via mazda it was back ordered, I got in the other day and went to put it on and I went to remove the overflow tank to make it easier to get to and the nipple that goes from the overflow tank to the radiator broke on the radiator so now I'm into a radiator

also I noticed my ac condenser had a hole in it too.

now for my question.

Should I go with a OEM stock radiator or just upgrade it?
and is there anything wrong with cheaping out on an ac condenser?
and yes I know how to vacuum down the system and charge it properly.

while i'm in the purchasing stage is there anything else I could put in to prolong it's life? I'm aware of the basic premixing, coils, plugs, etc but is there anything extra?

and with my engine not having much life left should I go for BHR coils or just keep getting stock ones?


also where would be a good source to buy the upgraded starter from? I see some on atkins rotary.
https://www.atkinsrotary.com/Electri...c-Starter.html
Yes I have an automatic 2004 rx8.

 

I don't think you have a ton of radiator upgrade options, being an automatic. The auto rad includes a trans cooling line which most of the usual upgrades don't.

I'm sure any OE replacement condenser will do. A/C has never been this car's strong point.

BHR vs OEM is more a question of how long you plan to keep the car... If it's for a long time, go BHR.

 

I plan to keep the car for a long while, I plan on rebuilding it here either late this year or next year.
So probably will get BHR.

As for the condenser and radiator I just ordered the condenser from o'reilly's and got the radiator from a mazda dealer.

when I remove the trans cooler lines will the transmission fluid all drain out? I'm worried if I should clamp them before removing the lines.