pledpled12

iTrader: (2)

hey,
i have an automatic..hahahahahahhahahahahahahaha -.-
ok thats outta the way
so i bought the car used and they needed to jumpstart the car for it to work
the manual mode doesnt "engage" when i shift to M it stay at D
i can move the gear lever back and forth in M and nothing happens, same with the paddle shifts
the used car dealer i got it from said that i need to reset the ECU because the battery died a long time ago and it got jumpstarted.
i was looking at the audi a4 forum becuase A4's also have manual shift mode and the same thing happened to someother guy
they said they found the solution. Theres a magnet involved in the shifting to manual mode or something and it broke or came off
but the guy with the problem said he got a new magnet for 50$ and the manual mode works fine
is it the same with the RX8?
i also saw in the audi forum that it could be some microchip or something
anyone know if resetting the ECU on the RX8 will fix this problem or is it possibly the same as the audi system. Will i have to check for a magnet? Or will i need a new microchip or w.e it is. If you know what the chip is for the rx8 can you tell me what its called and how much it costs.
right now im hoping its just an ECU problem that can be fixed by a reset.
any help?
also the AT warning light came on when i got the car but nothing seems wrong with the transmission, its been 2 months already since i got the car and no problems, when i need to accelerate to overtake someone i can still press the accelerator down and the computer shifts down smoothly so im hoping the manual mode and the AT warning light can be fixed with the ECU reset

i have a white 2007 mazda RX8 that i got in early september, havent been able to use it since


also there is no delay or anything when i shift into drive or reverse or nuetral etc
just some vibration when i idle in reverse or drive but thats probably because of an engine mount

ronx8

i have an automatic..hahahahahahhahahahahahahaha -.-

i loled!

anyway the vibration is more in drive than in neutral in my car too. i wouldnt say its a motor mount just yet, you could try changing plugs and coils if its really, really bad.

as for the manual mode issue, i would take it back to the dealer u got it. hopefully that will be covered under some kind of warranty or something?

lilring

iTrader: (11)

the motor mount is bad.. trust me.. i owned an auto for 3 years. get new mounts... take it to the mazda dealer for the lastest computer updates and check for the TSBs since you have warrenty.. good luck with every thing

McNeese

Man surely would've loved to know if someone actually solved the solution to no manual mode whatsoever. I know it's a super old thread but whew would sure love it if someone had some insight

McKennaR

iTrader: (1)

Option A: If no codes, time to check the physical layer. My favorite part. PLEASE READ THE WHOLE THING BEFORE YOU DO THIS!

There is a sub-miniature switch (P/N d2s-5l13) that tells the TCM that the shifter is in "M". This switch is buried in the bowels of the auto shifter assembly.

The symptoms you mention indicate that your switch might be broken, or at the very least not communicating to the TCM for whatever reason.

You'll want to ensure this switch is present, not broken, and still connected to the wiring harness.

Step 1. Take off your console cover (this is covered ad nauseum elsewhere)

Step 2. Disconnect the plug at the rear of the shifter assembly (large white plastic thing to the right in the first picture below) and clean the contacts with your favorite electronics / contact cleaner and something as lint-free as possible. Take this time to ensure all of the wires going to and from this plug are not cut, and are fully inserted into the back of their respective connectors. Check for corrosion, too, as this is in a place that sometimes gets crap spilled on it.

Step 3. Reconnect this connector

Step 4. Reinstall console cover

STOP HERE and take a test drive. If no change, then proceed.

Step 5. Pull the car into the garage and lift the front half of the car however you typically do when you're working under the car. If you don't have ramps, YOU MUST USE JACK STANDS.

Step 6. Chock the rear wheels, set e-brake, ensure the car is in park, etc.

Step 7. Remove the automatic shifter assembly. This is covered in depth in the factory shop manual. It takes about 10 minutes.

Step 8. With the shift assembly on a bench or in your lap, using needle nose pliers, remove the rear connector from the lower half of the assembly. Just pinch it from below and it will come out.

Step 9. Separate upper and lower portions of the shift assembly from each other using a 10mm socket / ratchet and a 10mm wrench. Place the wrench on the bolt heads on the "upper" portion of the assembly (mine also had philips head grooves in them, don't bother with those, they strip easily), and the socket on the nut underneath.

Step 10. Once separated, follow the wires into the portion of the mechanism pictured below. Note: TAKE YOUR TIME on separation, make mental notes of how it looked when you first opened it. There's a spring-loaded rod that follows a track that helps the shifter "lock" into position whenever you're in gear. Make sure that thing sits in and follows the track when you put this assembly back together.

You'll see the switch in question, the wires leading to it, and a metal "clip" looking thing that reminds me of the spoon on a hand grenade, so I'm calling it a spoon.

Anyways, that spoon hits the switch whenever the gear selector lever is moved into "M". Try it out while the thing is on the bench, you'll see what I mean.

This tells the PCM / TCM that the driver has selected M and "activates" the paddles & up / down switches on the upper portion of the auto shift assembly. Make sure your switch looks like the one in the pictures. Actuate the "M" mode while you can see it to make sure the spoon is hitting the red button on the switch and nothing is bent or misaligned. Also make sure the switch makes a clicking sound, and that all of the wires leading to the contacts on the switch are present, accounted for and free of major corrosion that would inhibit a connection.

Switch maker website: Subminiature Basic Switch D2S | Subminiature Basic Switches (S-Size) | Basic Switches | Switches | Products | OMRON Electronic Components Web

I'm sure you can apply power and test continuity on this switch, but I don't have a walkthrough on that one.

If this switch is bad, Mazda says to replace the entire shift assembly. If you're handy with the solder and have the patience of a saint, you can just replace this switch by itself and call it a day.

Reassembly is the opposite of disassembly. I'd recommend a tube of blue loc-tite on reassembly because that's what Mazda did when they were putting this thing together.

Option B. I have a known good shift assembly for sale on the cheap in the classifieds.

McNeese

Holy crap... This this is what I've been waiting for!!!! I needed this you are awesome!!!!! This is freakin great!!