lurching in first/reverse (MT) from neutral
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lurching in first/reverse (MT) from neutral
Hi there,
My transmission started acting up quite badly recently. Its always been hard to get it into first gear, but now its become semi-impossible.
When I'm at a dead stop and try to get into first or second gear the rpms will drop quite drastically and the engine will almost stall (I'm releasing the clutch slowly). When I give it a bit more gas, it will engage but will do so with a very loud clunking noise and some amount of lurching. This only occurs in the 1st and reverse gears, and all other gears work fine after that. I've always let the tranny fluid warm up and I changed fluids to redline around 5k miles back.
I'm not too experienced with transmissions, so any/all advice would be appreciated.... Thank you!
My transmission started acting up quite badly recently. Its always been hard to get it into first gear, but now its become semi-impossible.
When I'm at a dead stop and try to get into first or second gear the rpms will drop quite drastically and the engine will almost stall (I'm releasing the clutch slowly). When I give it a bit more gas, it will engage but will do so with a very loud clunking noise and some amount of lurching. This only occurs in the 1st and reverse gears, and all other gears work fine after that. I've always let the tranny fluid warm up and I changed fluids to redline around 5k miles back.
I'm not too experienced with transmissions, so any/all advice would be appreciated.... Thank you!
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What fluid?
It could be syncros, clutch, release bearing, or clutch pedal assembly.
The clutch pedal assembly is an easy thing to check on, and fairly common. Open the driver's door, sit on the ground next to the driver's seat with your legs forward under the door and you as far forward toward the door as you can. Take a look at the pedal, wiggle it around. It shouldn't have any side to side flex, the motion should be straight down and straight up, it shouldn't twist anything in the process. Without any pressure on it, it should also be level with the brake pedal. If you see any of the assembly twisting or shifting oddly, out of position, shifts side to side, then your pedal is broken, and can easily be causing your problems. The pedal is covered up to 100k miles by Mazda.
If the pedal assembly is fine, then it's going to be a tougher diagnosis and more expensive repair.
It could be syncros, clutch, release bearing, or clutch pedal assembly.
The clutch pedal assembly is an easy thing to check on, and fairly common. Open the driver's door, sit on the ground next to the driver's seat with your legs forward under the door and you as far forward toward the door as you can. Take a look at the pedal, wiggle it around. It shouldn't have any side to side flex, the motion should be straight down and straight up, it shouldn't twist anything in the process. Without any pressure on it, it should also be level with the brake pedal. If you see any of the assembly twisting or shifting oddly, out of position, shifts side to side, then your pedal is broken, and can easily be causing your problems. The pedal is covered up to 100k miles by Mazda.
If the pedal assembly is fine, then it's going to be a tougher diagnosis and more expensive repair.
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I used redline MT90
Wouldn't the release bearing/ pedal assembly cause problems throughout the gear range?
I checked the pedal assembly, and it doesn't seem to have too much flex. Could it be my clutch on its way out?
Wouldn't the release bearing/ pedal assembly cause problems throughout the gear range?
I checked the pedal assembly, and it doesn't seem to have too much flex. Could it be my clutch on its way out?
What fluid?
It could be syncros, clutch, release bearing, or clutch pedal assembly.
The clutch pedal assembly is an easy thing to check on, and fairly common. Open the driver's door, sit on the ground next to the driver's seat with your legs forward under the door and you as far forward toward the door as you can. Take a look at the pedal, wiggle it around. It shouldn't have any side to side flex, the motion should be straight down and straight up, it shouldn't twist anything in the process. Without any pressure on it, it should also be level with the brake pedal. If you see any of the assembly twisting or shifting oddly, out of position, shifts side to side, then your pedal is broken, and can easily be causing your problems. The pedal is covered up to 100k miles by Mazda.
If the pedal assembly is fine, then it's going to be a tougher diagnosis and more expensive repair.
It could be syncros, clutch, release bearing, or clutch pedal assembly.
The clutch pedal assembly is an easy thing to check on, and fairly common. Open the driver's door, sit on the ground next to the driver's seat with your legs forward under the door and you as far forward toward the door as you can. Take a look at the pedal, wiggle it around. It shouldn't have any side to side flex, the motion should be straight down and straight up, it shouldn't twist anything in the process. Without any pressure on it, it should also be level with the brake pedal. If you see any of the assembly twisting or shifting oddly, out of position, shifts side to side, then your pedal is broken, and can easily be causing your problems. The pedal is covered up to 100k miles by Mazda.
If the pedal assembly is fine, then it's going to be a tougher diagnosis and more expensive repair.
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