LittleZ360

Okay so I had my engine,transmission,clutch, motor mounts, coils, plugs, and wires replaced. Engine under warranty. This was for a storm of issues that happened all in a short amount of time. Hot start issue, 1st and reverse engagement issues, rough idle, power loss, etc... All hit at about 50k miles with virtually no prior issues.
For the last month of taking it easy on the new engine, clutch and tranny. I started opening it up a bit more. All seemed great, power has been spot on, idle smooth as silk.
About 2 days ago, I get in, started up normal, warmed up and on my way. Although starting off in 1st gear, it hesitated applying power, like it's not getting enough gas/air. Then getting a little higher in RPMs it would smooth out and power seemed normal. After driving around a bit, it seems as though its in every gear, in low rpms...I'd say anywhere under 3500rpms it just lags on the power.

The exhaust sounds like it might be a bit deeper sounding in low rpms. The idle seems to kinda stutter occasionally but not often... I think it may be taking a bit more time to start every now n then.

My battery is probably about due for replacement, but it has never given any signs of failur... no corrosion, fast cranking speed at start up...

My cat has never been replaced... Could this be clogged?
The tech (when engine was replaced) said there was a CEL that came up after the work was done, I forget the code, but he said the SSV was getting stuck when the engine was cold, but would work normally after the engine warmed up.
After the work, I picked up the car and the CEL hasn't come back on since, so I was thinking this might have cleared itself up.

I still don't have any CELs coming up.

I was just going to take it back to the dealer, but I'd like to troubleshoot it as much as I can first, for I don't want to get stuck with a Diag. Fee for something I can take care of myself...

I'm going to pick up a new battery tomorrow, but I'd like to hear your thoughts on the situation.

Thanks for reading

LittleZ360

After posting (above) I went out for a smoke, and shook my exhaust around a little and couldn't hear anything rattling around in there.. I know an inspection would require taking it off and checking it out.
I'm just wondering, don't you think the tech would have checked it when removing the engine and tranny?
I would have also expected an inspection of the SSV but didn't hear about that until everything was all buttoned up.

I'm leaning towards the SSV, I've read a few of the threads on it, but my only battle with the SSV is I'm not getting any CELs...

I'm getting confused...

Harlan

iTrader: (3)

Does sound like a stuck open SSV.

LittleZ360

Yeah that's what I'm thinking... Since I know I atleast temporarily had a SSV issue, I'm sure it'd be a good idea to remove and clean it. I see there's a thorough DIY on here for it.
I guess that will be a project for this coming weekend. I think the dealership quoted me a few hundred dollars...it was over a month ago so I'm not sure.
I'd prefer to save my money and learn my way around the car some more.

LittleZ360

I wonder... the SSV opens around like 3250 rpms or somethin right? If I were to keep my rpms moving up and down through this range, on a fully warmed up engine, could I possibly loosen it up u think? I'm going to try tomorrow...

amazon_jade

I'd be surprised if it was only a few hundred to take the SSV out and clean it.

On the other hand.. if it was.... I would pay the few hundred and save myself the trouble

wcs

iTrader: (2)

MMmmm maybe.
The SSV opens first from Load and second by RPM

It would still require some work but I've been considering pouring seafoam down my LIM on to the SSV to clean it up.
To do this you have to remove the UIM but that's alot less work than removing the SSV to clean it.

Just say'n ... I've not tried it

Have you tried manually opening and closing the SSV to see if its sticky?
The actuator and arm are located right behind the alternator under the UIM.

See pic in this thread
https://www.rx8club.com/rx-8-discussion-3/possible-vdi-ssv-232316/

LittleZ360

Yeah, I'm too cheap to pay them more than $200 to clean anything on my car.
If I can do it in a day, I'll be content. Like I said, I'm also curious about digging in there and learning a bit more.

LittleZ360

No, I went out there the other day and tried to find it with no luck. (Didn't try very hard, was getting dark)
Thanx for the link, I'm going to give it another go in a few minutes.
I'll post what I find.

BTW, I'm hesitant to use seafoam on a new engine... Is that me being over concerned?

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

I just dealt with a member through PM and his dealer quoted $650 to remove, clean, and install a new valve.
Though I've heard different quotes from various dealers.

If its sticking but still moves, that can help... I've done that with Carb Cleaner.
But expect to revisit this within the year because it'll stick again.
Tried it with a local's car and we ended-up having to remove and clean the valve (which is where my DIY video came from).

And this is something I insist people do if they feel their valve is sticking.
I've shown how to perform this manually (by hand) and with a vacuum pump and this can be performed with the valve still in the car.

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

And you may not see a CEL until it gets worse.
When a fault occurs, the PCM stores it as a "pending" code (no CEL illuminates).
If the fault is not found during a 2nd drive cycle, the PCM assumes there is no longer a problem and deletes the pending code.
If the problem is found during the 2nd drive cycle, the PCM judges the system has failed and a DTC (CEL) is stored.
So a sticking valve could satisfy the PCM once it operates, which then deletes the pending code, and you start over again.

LittleZ360

UPDATE:
Okay, so I went out and found the SSV, tried moving it by hand, and it seems to move easily...
It was in the closed position (down) originally and I moved it up and down all the way and it doesn't really seem to have any restriction... It moves quite freely throughout it's stroke and snaps back shut all the way when I release it, it's fast acting too.

Now I'm thinking a clogged cat...or maybe a vac. leak? My idle seems slightly rougher than it did a couple days ago when I first noticed the issue.

If I were to have a friend rev the engine while I watched the SSV from the engine bay, even though not under load will the SSV open up still?

Thoughts...?

LittleZ360

That makes sense. But now I'm wondering where my problems really sits...
I posted above, it's moving quite freely by hand...?

In reality the best case scenario would be a bad engine, that way I can go to the dealership and say they gave me a crap engine, then have them clean the SSV and save on labor while everything is out....

HAHA, although I'm hoping for something less dramatic.

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

If the lever was in the "down" position, the valve was open (which it shouldn't be).
You push down on the lever to open the valve, then the return spring in the actuator pulls it back up.

LittleZ360

Jon316G-- I'm glad you chimed in BTW. You seem to be the guy to go to on here for SSV questions. THX

LittleZ360

I'm gonna look at it again real quick, BRB!

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

Lets just make sure we're on the same page.
View the video in this thread and make sure it moves the way you see it:
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-do-yourself-forum-73/diy-troubleshoot-intake-valves-174009/
Yes... its not in the car, but the method of troubleshooting is the same and can still be performed in the car.

LittleZ360

OKAY, there was some confusion.
I "lifted" up on the arm where the rod connects to it, not on the other side of the pivot point where the "lever" is. If I were to push on that side it would be pushing down and returns up, if i do it from the actuator side its lifting up and returning down.
Does this sound more correct?

LittleZ360

Yeah, I think I'm on the same page.
I'm just not finding any kind of restriction in it...

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

Then maybe the valve itself isn't the problem.
The Tech told you the valve was sticking, but did he actually feel it sticking or was he simply going off of a DTC reading?
If it was a SSV related code, you might need to rule out the actuator or solenoid too.

And you still have the possibility of this not even being an SSV related issue.
I'm simply going off of a tech telling you there was a problem with the SSV before, but YOU need to rule that theory out before moving on.

LittleZ360

Can I just watch to see if the actuator is moving the valve fully while somebody revs the engine? Or does it have to be under load?
I'm going to run by the dealership after work tomorrow and hope the same tech is there, but I'm pretty certain he had the code and it went away after the car would warm up, didn't mention if he inspected any further or not.
Again, when I picked up the car, it was already warmed up and didn't have the CEL, and ever since then it hasn't thrown a CEL even when cold.

Is the solenoid the switch that gets made by the SSV lever? Wouldn't that be more likely to throw a CEL without effecting performance?

The first 50k miles were smooth as silk, then it's just been one thing after another. There's only so many parts that haven't been replaced yet... lol

Either way, thanks for the support Jon316G

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

Nope

Think you're referring to the actuator.
The solenoid is behind/under the UIM and is the electronic switch to allow vacuum to actuate the actuator.

Not always

There have been times where the SSV cycled when the ignition is turned off (likely to clear carbon build-up).
But there have been times I haven't seen this occur.
Won't hurt to try and see if it works for you.

LittleZ360

If the actuator or solenoid were failing, wouldn't it effect performance in higher rpms by not opening, rather than effecting lower rpms where it's normally closed where I'm getting problems?

LittleZ360

Or I suppose if the solenoid would allow some vac. through and intermitantly allow the actuator to move the valve... that would leave it open at times it should be closed... :/
Is this right?

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

Instead of throwing out crazy theories based on your little understanding on how these components operate, just test them (if you still feel its SSV related) and move on.
There are DIY threads (by me) that illustrate how to perform these tests easily.