schnell8

iTrader: (1)

In the morning, driving to work, my car runs great with the greddy turbo, but after awhile when the car goes into boost there is now acceleration and my exhaust sputters. I replaced all 4 coils with new ones. I've already had a clogged catalytic converter that I gutted. It kind of feels the same as the clogged cat but I still get full boost and I can accelerate in vacuum. Some times the car works fine for a whole drive cycle and sometimes not.

It seems like the ignition coils are bad but I just changed them and I do the resistence check on the coils and there's no abnormalities. I also checked the interceptor X and boost tracks with my boost gauge. I've changed out the coils before and it always fixed the problem.

I have been searching this website for awhile and I can't find anything similar. If anyone has any suggestions I would love to hear them. Thanks.

Kindawg

You sir have the symptons of a boost leak. Check your clamps

mysql101

Check the couplers, especially if you use the ones that shipped with the greddy kit. The one at the bottom of the charge tube is prone to ripping under boost and if this is the case, you want to fix it ASAP since when you're not in boost, the car will be sucking IN air and you might be allowing unfiltered air that contains dirt into your engine.

Blackfd3

I would check for a boost leak. Or it is even possible the plugs are fouled out. Before going nuts looking for the leak though, because that is something you would be able to hear. Check the plugs.

mysql101

This is what usually happens.

schnell8

iTrader: (1)

I do have those suggested couplers. I still have the normal boost of 5-6 psi, but it seems like the ignition just isn't firing. Has any seen the ignition coils work good for the first five minutes of a drive and then just loss power. Usually in the cold the car will run good for longer before it losses power.

Is it possible for there to be an electrical problem before the ignition coils that would affect the power of the spark? I was thinking maybe the battery cause the battery water was low. I filled it back up and will see what that does tomorrow.

Blackfd3

Would you like an electrical diagram of the system you are working on. I have All Data pro. Let me know bud and Ill shot you one over.

Blackfd3

TSB: 01-016/07

2004-2007 RX-8 - IGNITION COIL INSPECTION

APPLICABLE MODEL(S)/VINS
2004-2007 RX-8

DESCRIPTION

The following procedure is a supplement to the Workshop Manual procedure for ignition coil diagnostic testing.

INSPECTION PROCEDURE

NOTE: ^ Before inspecting ignition coils, make sure the spark plug wires and spark plug are in good condition. Defective spark plug wires and/or spark plugs may cause misdiagnosis and unnecessary replacement of ignition coils. Refer to B - SPARK TEST.








^ DO NOT diagnose ignition coil condition based on "white spots" or "heat marks" which may be found on the bottom of the ignition coil body.

1. Warm engine to normal operating temperature.

2. Verify customer concern.

A - INSPECTION USING AN INDUCTIVE TIMING LIGHT

Note: ^ Trailing ignition DOES NOT operate during engine cranking condition after Recall 4206F PCM calibration has been installed. Do not check coils during engine cranking condition.


1. Attach timing light to vehicle as per timing light manufactures instructions. (Positive negative power leads to vehicle battery etc)








2. With engine idling, carefully attach inductive lead of timing light to each spark plug wire.

3. Verify timing light flashes when the inductive lead of timing light is attached to each spark plug wire.

4. Replace any ignition coil if the timing light does not flash with engine idling and / or unstable flash while revving engine.

B - SPARK TEST

1. Release fuel line pressure. Refer to Workshop Manual section 01-14 - FUEL LINE SAFETY PROCEDURE under BEFORE REPAIR PROCEDURE.

NOTE: ^ Leave fuel pump relay removed from vehicle for the duration of the spark test procedure.


2. Verify that each high-tension lead (spark plug wire) and connector is connected properly.








3. Inspect the ignition system using the following procedure.

WARNING: ^ High voltage in the ignition system can cause strong electrical shock which can result in serious injury. Avoid direct contact to the vehicle body during the following spark test.


4. Install the fuel pump relay.

C - IGNITION COIL INSPECTION


Ignition Coil With Built-in Power Switch Inspection

1. Disconnect the ignition coil connector.

2. Measure the resistance between each terminal on the ignition coil connector.








3. If the measurement corresponds to the table, replace the ignition coil.

srt8pipe

good info! being trying to find someone with the same issues as me. Im going to check the coupling to see if it ripped and then replace all of the with the recommened couplings.

also though will boost leak cause idle to drop? or even possibly die out? it seems that I can catch idle at some point but if I let it run for about 5 mins or so then rev it then it cant hold idle at all and eventually dies.

so the sputtering of the engine is caused by the turblence of boost leak? no wonder my car sounded like a damn helicoptor.

srt8pipe

just checked the couplings that suppose to rip underboost and its fine going to check the rest tommorrow. But I checked the throttle body and the plastic part of the intake manifold and found fuel. Was it safe to do deflood the engine when it is turbo'ed? or now have I caused a problem that makes me have to clean the manifold so the air can flow freely? would I probally have to clean the intercooler too?

sorry for jacking this thread but I have alot of questions that need to be answered seeing that me and this guy has almost the same exact problems.
intresting how changing the coils resulted in a temporary fix so I would probally get it replaced again?

Summary of main problems
1. couplings ripping causing boost leak

2. car sounds like a helicoptor

3. cant barley or not even hold idle

4. fuel in intake manifold

5. loss of power

Blackfd3

Um I could be wrong. But your car sounding like a helicopter then dieng out all together to me sounds like you blew a seal. Does your car run and drive at all?
Can you start it, and when you try does it sound louder then it should? If so check compression.

You would not have to clean the IC. Leave the couplers off and the gas will go away on its own. With some air it evaporates.

mysql101

You might be right. The interceptor likely would idle OK with a vacuum leak. Even my EMU idled OK when I had a blown coupler. If the car can't idle, that's a bad sign, especially with the engine not sounding normal.

srt8pipe

Here are some better detailed issue that I've been having

1. Batteries keep dieing on me when I let the sit for 2 days or more then I have to recharge it because it seems there is not enough power to ignite the motor.

2. It seems like the only way to actually start the motor is when I take out the fuel pump fuse(because car seems to be flooded everytime I start it.)

3. When the car starts up it catches idle at a good 800 and stays strong but when I rev it after about 5 mins of having it running it doesnt catches idle unless I rev it again to about 2500 then I have to keep it there for about a min then it catches idle again.

4. No matter what though my exhaust is sputtering not real bad but you can still hear it and it smells like fuel.

Rxceler8

I'm having the same problem as schnell8..I have put in new couplers as well as new coils and plugs, hasn't solved problem..If anyone has had the problem and has been able to identify its cause, please post and let me know...Thanks

Razz1

SRT8...

You need to start a new thread.

List the mods on your car.