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Just bought a 2004 rx8 cranks and runs smooth but it smokes and smells like its loading up with fuel if I let it idle after a few minutes it dies and wont restart and idea whats going on
Could either be running too rich and flooding out or has bad oil control rings, depending on whether it's actually smoke or if it's really steam then it could be a bad coolant seal. Just guesses. More info would help a lot. Is it hard to get started when warm/cold? Does it run smoothly at idle? What about just before it dies? Any CEL? Does it just smoke at idle or does it smoke a lot when revved as well?
What color is the smoke? After it dies and it won't restart..what do you do to get it started again?
Could either be running too rich and flooding out or has bad oil control rings, depending on whether it's actually smoke or if it's really steam then it could be a bad coolant seal. Just guesses. More info would help a lot. Is it hard to get started when warm/cold? Does it run smoothly at idle? What about just before it dies? Any CEL? Does it just smoke at idle or does it smoke a lot when revved as well?
Let's start with this:
- Mileage
- MT or AT
- Any other mods other than catalytic delete
- Last time coils where replaced
- Last time plugs where replaced
- Last time wire where replaced
- Air filter
- Oil consumption
- Any coolant loss?
Initial thoughts are the engine is ka-putz-ski
But without a Catalytic you are going to get more exhaust smoke until the engine is hot and the smell with make your eyes water.
I love it
Sorry for the lack if info im new the the mazda world. If I let car sit 30-40 minutes it cranks back up. The water and oil levels look fine im not sure on wirers or coil I have only had car a month car has m/t no mods
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A compression test is not easily performed on a rotary engine. You have 3 faces on each rotor that have to be tested. And, the engine has to be spinning above a certain rpm, to make sure the apex seals have a chance to contact the rotor housing.
You can get a kind of general reading with a standard compression guage, but you may miss things.
You haven't answered WCS's questions. If you want help, this has to be a two way conversation.
Where is here?
You can get a kind of general reading with a standard compression guage, but you may miss things.
You haven't answered WCS's questions. If you want help, this has to be a two way conversation.
Where is here?
Answer each of the questions listed by WCS.
The suggestion to take it to a dealership comes from you seeming inability to do this, plus the inability to construct a complete sentence.
People here are willing to help, but cannot do it if you pick and choose what information to provide.
The suggestion to take it to a dealership comes from you seeming inability to do this, plus the inability to construct a complete sentence.
People here are willing to help, but cannot do it if you pick and choose what information to provide.
When were the ignition coils changed? Sounds like its not burning fuel. If coils/plugs are older than 30,009mi, replace. Basically, if your ignition is worn out, you would get the symptoms you describe, but you could also have low compression (which often results from weak ignition) and for that you need a new engine.
Comp test you need a rotary tester not a normal one. But it would be a good next step.
Comp test you need a rotary tester not a normal one. But it would be a good next step.
When were the ignition coils changed? Sounds like its not burning fuel. If coils/plugs are older than 30,009mi, replace. Basically, if your ignition is worn out, you would get the symptoms you describe, but you could also have low compression (which often results from weak ignition) and for that you need a new engine.
Comp test you need a rotary tester not a normal one. But it would be a good next step.
Comp test you need a rotary tester not a normal one. But it would be a good next step.
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