ello13

Hi guys, I thought I'd share my problem here and hopefully receive some help. This is a 6 speed with about 27,000 miles and bone stock cept for a racing beat revi intake and duct. Car is well maintained and oil and filter was changed less than 500 miles and 2 weeks ago.

Two days ago I was driving on the highway accelerating up to 70 in 3rd when cars ahead start braking, so I put the car in neutral. As soon as I did that the rpms dropped straight to 0 and all the lights lit up on the dash. I was just about to pull over when I thought to put it back into gear. As soon as I did that, the car picked up again and the lights all went off.

I had hoped and thought everything was fine until I pulled up to a stop light where the car stalled. It started right up again with no problems but I noticed that it wouldn't idle and would stall almost immediately if I didn't keep reving in neutral. The next morning when I started it up, the idle was a little erratic and would threaten to stall out on me. It would come close and then the car kicks the revs back up. The car feels underpowered as well and I hear a funny sound coming from the front. The car also seems to sutter even at high speeds and even in a hgh gear such as 6th. I went to the dealer that morning and after I got there it wouldn't hold it's idle anymore and stalled.

I dropped it off and worried for the worst. They told me that aftermaket intake was leaking and that it would be a $105 repair. I asked whether anything else might be wrong in addition to the intake and they said they wouldn't know for sure without having that repaired or having my stock intake in there (I don't know where the stock is right now). I had told them that the revi was purchased and installed by a dealer and had hoped it would be covered and they said that I'd need to contact the installing dealer and get them to authorize it (which they told me they probably wouldn't). They told me it was ok to drive in it's current state so I took the car home to look up my paperwork. The revi was installed a little over a year ago and I went to RB's website where it says the warranty is only for a year so I'm a little bummed about that. I'm not expecting this dealer cover it because I know it's aftermarket, but was wondering what recourses I have.


Questions:

So, my questions are, do you guys think the only problem with the car is the cold air intake? Would I be able to test or fix the leak myself? I don't plan on moving my car from the garage until I either get it fixed or back to the dealer, but can driving a car with a leaky cold air intake cause addition problems? What I'm worried most is even if I plunk the $105 down, that won't fix my problem OR they'll then let me know of additional problems. I'd also prefer to do it myself if it's not a difficult job. Just wondering what you all would do and suggestions.



Cliffnotes:

The car is a 6 speed with a revi cold air intake and duct. Car has 27k miles and is well maintained (oil, etc). Car doesn't idle correctly and stalls whenever I put it in neutral or stop at the stoplight. Power feels a little low and the car sometimes sutters even at high speeds and in a high gear such as 6th. I took it to the dealer and they told me it was a leaky intake and would cost $105 to fix. If you can answer some questions above or provide any insight, that would be appreciated!



Any and all help would greatly be appreciated. Thankyou for reading.

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

Check the plug for the VFAD nipple... up by the dipstick tube...if it is missing it will idle poorly. It is a 10 cent part if it is missing.

The intake can leak before the MAF all it wants and it wont affect anything.

Where did they say the leak is?

G-ReX

If you look for the pool of intake fluid on the ground, the leak will be just above that.

Seriously, check the VFAD vacuum cap as dannobre said. They apparently get knocked off a lot.
Check that the MAF is still seated correctly on the blue connector tube.
See if the screen inside the tube is torn or displaced.
Make sure the accordion tube is still hooked up to the blue connector tube correctly.

ello13

I looked around and I couldn't identify what might be a VFAD nipple. I see comething orange that's pointed down? I'll search on this forum for a picture to help me identify it. The dealer didn't get into specifics, just saying that the problem was my aftermarket air intake and that it would cost $$$ for them to go in there and find out the leak to fix it. I didn't know what to ask further nor did I want to annoy them. I was a scared that they would use the aftermarket intake to screw me with.

Also, there is no leaking of fluids at all. There are no cels on either.


Thanks for both of your help.

edit: If anyone can chime in with what I'm looking for in the VFAD, that would greatly be appreciated. I'm sorting through dozens of threads and none so far have a picture for me. Some are mentioning the VFAD is just for noice reduction?

I'm also looking into getting a MAF cleaner and doing that tomorrow. Too bad there's no complete (with pictures) DIY for that. =(

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

I posted a picture in another thread that shows the location of the nipple plug:
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tech-garage-22/check-engine-light-reset-ecu-126409/
Its the 9th post down.

I question the "leaking intake" being the problem. With your car having 27K miles, have you replaced your plugs (or had the recall done)?
Also, did you receive any CEL (besides when all the lights came on)? Normally it would be stored and the code can be pulled (which will help narrow the problem down).

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

I was also thinking... I don't own a Racing Beat intake, but I thought that the VFAD unit stayed on. This would mean that the nipple on the intake manifold would still have the vacuum line connected to it.
In the link I mentioned above (the picture on the 9th post) shows the VFAD assembly and is shown as "dashed-lines". See if you have this still installed.

ello13

The leading and trailing plugs were replaced under warranty around 6k miles. I don't believe there was ever a cel on besides whenever I stalled out. Should I of asked the dealer what cel was tripped (if there was one tripped)? I just didn't want to push it with the dealer because I heard they're the best in Chicago (Wilkin's Mazda) and I've been going to them lately. I'll go check out your post right now. Thanks!

ello13

Hi, I just went and checked both the picture and the car. I think the ornage/red plastic thing is in fact the nipple (according to your picture) and there are was nothing attached to it (nothing relating to the dashed line). So, I don't think the nipple fell off. Any other thoughts?

ello13

Ok....so I discovered the problem. The giant tube (sorry don't know names) that runs behind the revi CAI must of blown off as I was accelerating. I just need to find the correct hex size and pull the tube back in place and tighten I believe. The dealer told me, they would need to open it up and patch the leak up. I understand the cai was aftermarket, but when I get the correct hex size, it's a 1 minute fix!!!! Man, I used to trust this dealer too. It's just a matter of good customer service! I know they weren't obligated to do anything, but someone who wants to do the right thing would.

I mean they could of just reattached the tube and if there were other problems, then I'd understand then not fixing it w/o $$$. But instead, they just let it dangle there as I pull off, not fixing it for me (almost understandable) but also not telling me what was wrong.


I'm just hoping this is the only problem though. Thanks everyone and I'll let you know how it works when my buddy comes by with some more tools.

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

If it before the MAF...it shouldn't cause much of a problem with the way the car runs.....so the problem is probably further back...unless it is causing a lot of turbulence, and screwing the MAF reading up. Any leak after the Throttle body shouldn't have anything to do with your intake installation...it's all stock after that. there also isn't much that can leak after the Throttle body anyway...unless someone manhandled the upper intake manifold really bad during the install.

I'd check all the clamps and connectors around the MAF tube...and at the throttle body..and that should fix it

ello13

Hi, yeah it was the clamp that holds the i'm guessing manifold in place that was loose. The manifold had come off the CAI. I just pulled it back in place and handtightened. I lost my hex set so I don't have the right one to tighten it completely. It seems to have fixed my problem after warming up 5 mins and driving around the block once.

Thanks to a day's of research, I'm going to clean my MAF next week anyways (hoping for better mpg). How many miles does the air fliter last before it needs to be replaced or cleaned? Can I just clean it or should I buy a new one? If I were to buy a new one, would a K&N fit in the revi? Thanks all!

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

Revi has a K&N cleanable filter in it...get a recharge kit at a Pep Boys or something...and clean and re-oil it...and you are good to go for a few months at least

ello13

Thanks again. The only reason I even found the manifold not being connected was because I was poking around trying to find out how to remove the filter so I could either clean it or replace. It's nice to know there is a K&N filter already in there and that I would only need the rehcarge kit dannobre!

So, next week I plan on... cleaning the MAF with so MAF cleaner, cleaning and recharging the K&N air filter! I just changed my oil 2 weeks ago, otherwise that would be another fun activity to tack on.


So, one last question, how exactly do I get into the air filter of the revi? I searched and read all the stock air filter DIY's and even saw the video made by explo, but it doesn't look the same at all for the revi. Can anyone with experience with a revi help?

Mazurfer

Okay....here we go!

1.) You are going to have to remove the blue connector tube with the MAF on it from both ends(The accordion tube end and off the Revi box).
BTW....While I don't know for sure, I think the dealer was just going to charge you $175.00 to hook back up the blue tube to the Revi box! I'm pretty sure that you MAF was just getting turbulent air and that's what your initial issue was. But I digress............anyway, I would disconnect the MAF sensor, move the wiring out of the way, and place the blue tube(with the MAF) aside........carefully! Don't jar the MAF too much!

2.) Next, it really would be easier, but I'll let you decide. I go and pull all the little hoses off the accordion tube(There are three on the left), and I remove that whole tube as well. You can try step three without taking the accordion off, but it's a bitch............and so much easier if you just take the accordion totally off.

3.) Next, there may be another clamp(with hex) here that you will have to loosen(I don't remember), but on the back of the REVI box there are about 6 bolts in a circular pattern that need to come out(10mm?). This releases the blue plate on the back of the Revi. Once that plate is off, it's just a matter of sliding the filter straight out.

4.) I suddenly realized, I shouldn't have typed all this **** cause I have the damn instructions........PM me with you E-mail if you want them and I'll send them, but basically that's it.

Oh..........Once I had the filter out, I popped of the blue cap on the end for cleaning and I also removed the piece of tube containing the screen from the filter for cleaning as well.
Follow the directions on the K&N recharge kit closely and don't blast it with mega-force water! Let it dry good before oiling it. I actually clean it twice and then oiled it twice. Took about 3 hours total, so if you other things to do while in the process.......good!

Also, The Revi takes out one screen of the normal equation of having two, so while you have the filter out, inspect that screen and make sure it's not damaged as someone already said.

G-ReX

Pull the shock tower brace.

Disconnect the electrical connector to the MAF.

Loosen the clamp at the juncture of the MAF tube (blue tube) and the airbox.
Loosen the clamp at the juncture of the bellows assembly (accordion thing) and the throttle body.
Pull the combined MAF tube/bellows assembly out.
Watch out for the screen inside the filter neck. Don't damage that.

Remove the 6 bolts that hold the blue filter retaining ring on & remove the ring.

The filter should pull out of the airbox. Clean it & replace in reverse order.

Shock tower brace is retorqued to 15 ft-lbs.

edit: Mazsurfer beat me to it!

Mazurfer

Yeah, but you typed way less! Good Job!

ello13

Thanks G-rex and Mazurfer. This forum truly is great. I'll be pming you my e-mail now Mazurfer. You can never get too many instructions ya know.

Mazurfer

Will send them in the AM.