crazy4scsa

omg get out! ok ok ... no tricking the new girl, told ya, i am clueless on rotary! didnt know RENESIS was a word till i saw it on my engine cover!
fluids ... i know all about clutch fluid thanks to my leaky accent .. but the other ones, no idea!
so seems to be some up sides and some down sides .. coils/plugs/wires still worry me since i can not and will not be changing them myself!
and to think the dealer said 200k miles no problems ... eh

wheellee

i usually dont go over 30mph first thing in the morning or over 4k rpms till its warmed up. i would think if it takes you that long to get out of your complex it just gives the engine a bit more time to warm up before hitting the main roads and flooring it =)

crazy4scsa

LMAO!! thanks for the heads up!
does a dealer have to service these .. rotary and all, or jiffy lube be good?

crazy4scsa

and flooring it i have been!!!!

wheellee

i would personally stay away from a place like jiffy lube since this isnt your typical car and if you get some person in there that has no idea what they are doing with a rotory engine they could really screw things up for you

Maries8

Speed shouldn't matter, just be careful to not rev the engine very high when it's still cold. The computer will prevent it anyway, but still a good idea to take it easy until it warms up.

And never turn the engine off when it's still cold. As in don't start it in the morning, move it across the parking lot, and turn it off. I don't know if the newer models fixed the problem, but older ones had a tendency to "flood" when turned off cold, and wouldn't start again.

maskedferret

iTrader: (1)

Jiffy Lube should be fine for engine oil changes; I always go to Valvoline myself. 5w30 conventional seems to have been mentioned already - that's good.

Driving slow at start should be fine; just don't lug the engine so much. 7 mph should keep you in first gear for the most part. Driving in first like this will help teach you how to finely adjust the throttle unless you like bobbing heads in the car. :D

For other maintenance on the car it might be best to stick with a Mazda dealership, unless you know a mechanic that specializes in working on rotary engines.

The one additional thing you now have to worry about as far as fluid maintenance, however; is rear differential oil. You should ideally keep that on a similar maintenance schedule as your transmission oil.

Maries8

So THAT'S what was in my tailights when they cracked?

crazy4scsa

thats what got me all freaked out to begin with, the whole flooding thing, tow to dealer $300 later .... but i sure do know about all that now and will never ever try to do that, thanks!!! was curious if it was a problem on the 07 models or not

maskedferret

iTrader: (1)

As far as coils/wires/plugs go, don't worry about it until you start noticing the car taking longer to start up and you start to see the occasional blinking "check engine" light. Don't expect to worry about this for another 30-40k miles I would hope, assuming the dealership properly prepped this car to sell.

To save money on this I would find someone on the forum that ideally has experience replacing them that is local to you, and offer them beer or something to do it for you. Replacing these parts is relatively trivial for anyone that likes to work on their car, and the parts can be had for a lot cheaper than the dealer sells them for. (parts total maybe $250, vs. paying a stealership $700+ to do it)

Regarding flooding: It seems the 2006 and later models are more resistant to it. (my car has never been flooded even after the occasional cold stops). Regardless, don't tempt it; try not to shut the car off cold if you can at all avoid it.

... did you receive a "tutorial" DVD for your car? It might be beneficial if you got this and watched it. It's probably a good thing for a new owner to watch that is not familiar with the nuances of a rotary engined car. I am sure many around here have it; someone might be willing to give it to you. (I think I have two of them laying around somewhere)

crazy4scsa

i do think i will go with the 5w30 since 20 seems to be to thin, want to prevent problems and all!
and never use synthetic i understand
i know of no one that knows anything about rotary, dealer prices it is for me i guess, sure wish they would of changed the oil when i bought it, no clue when the last time it was changed!

lug the engine, see i get that alot, can not figure out what i am doing wrong, i stay in first and it just surges and backs down .. bobbing heads .. yeah whiplash! i will never get the hang of that! thats why i assumed it was too hard on the engine to go so darn slow, its like i am killing it!

crazy4scsa

even with 40k on it now .. see thats what pisses me off, they told me nothing about what they did if anything to it .. so i am in the dark as far as previous owner and dealer .. i know theres a reason they traded it in .. this car is too awesome to let go of unless they werent prepared for the crap storm ahead!

ok .. who lives close to memphis ... im gonna need ya if i keep this!!! i will rack up those miles in a year! i knew it would be expensive but ouch ouch ouch $700 not a possibility at all~!

crazy4scsa

well good to hear i might not have to worry about the flooding ...
no dvd, got the books but nothing else
how do i tell what package i have on the car .. it only says sport ??

if u have two, i would love to take one off your hands ...

maskedferret

iTrader: (1)

In first gear, modulate (or feather) the clutch accordingly at slow speeds if you find this happening a lot. This will reduce the jerkiness.

crazy4scsa

always so worried about burning out the clutch , by the way, any clue how long the clutch will last .. considering i drag it out when going from a stop light (i am so darn scared of stalling that i ride that clutch till i am sure i wont die!)
is 2nd to high of a gear for such slow speeds?

maskedferret

iTrader: (1)

I think 2nd gear should be fine... I can never remember these things until I actually get in my car.

I am at 60k, still on the original clutch, and sometimes drive and shift aggressively. (remember, my first manual transmission!) Clutch wear isn't that bad at low engine speeds, so I wouldn't worry about it so much if I were you. Others have reported even longer life from their clutches; but some have had shorter lives as well.

From a stop, try to get the car going from 2500 RPM or less (more if you're going uphill, of course). Feathering it out as you get going is fine, but try to be completely off the clutch within a few seconds at most. Over-thinking all of this can make it difficult; try not to think about it so much!

Sport *is* the package (trim) of your car (unless you've got leather seats -- then it's not a sport package). The other trims are Touring and Grand Touring.

I'll see if I can find those DVDs.

crazy4scsa

that helps alot, thank you!!!
nope no leather .. ok just sport, was looking up trade in kbb value, looks like ill lose about $6k trading it in .. expensive mistake .. have to seriously think this one through!
much appreciated!
gn

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

Wow this thread blew up a bit since I last looked at it....

A few comments from posts throughout the thread:

[QUOTE=crazy4scsa;3447188 .. still seems crazy to me to have to maintain a vehicle so often, especially since i can do 25k miles a year .. on a 6 yr term, this could get pricey!

oh and guess i forgot to mention, i am not good at car work .. 32 yr old female, i cant even DIY change the oil! [/QUOTE]

Mazda intentionally made the 8 a VERY easy car to work on. Maintaining it yourself is very easy, and significantly cheaper. For example, a dealer will charge you $300 to $600 for replacing your 4 coils. From vendors here on the boards, the coils are ~$160 for all 4, and it takes ~20 minutes and a ratchet with a 12mm(?) socket. That's it. Plugs at a dealer are $300 to $500. A set of OEM plugs from vendors here are $80, and they are easily reached through the front left wheel well with a few ratchet extensions. Don't get paranoid about the cost unless you really insist on having someone else do it, in which case you have every right to be paranoid Most mechanic places have no rotary experience, and even dealers tend to have alot of mechanics that haven't received RX-8 specific training, and also don't know what they are doing. Get together with a few other people from Memphis if you want them to show you how to do everything, and I'm sure they would be happy to help.
There are several Memphis threads in this sub forum: https://www.rx8club.com/se-rx-8-forum-30/


I cruise in 6th on the highway, down as low as ~40mph. However if traffic clears and I need to pick the speed back up, I don't try to accelerate in 6th. The only time I leave it in 6th to accelerate is when I am over 75-80 range, but still drop it into 3rd often. Going to 80 in 4th is quite fine. No cause for concern. In fact, the only improvement I'd recommend is going to 80 in 3rd You still have another ~13-15mph to go in 3rd before redline. And I am completely serious. Laughing, but serious about my advice.
I am ...less than legal... when it comes to adhering to the speed limit, and frequently do a WOT (Wide Open Throttle, you will see that term alot), through 2nd, 3rd, and in the summer months, 4th.

Here is the breakdown for the MT Series 1: (exact speed may shift slightly due to tire size, tach and mph differences, my speedo is exactly one at the moment due to winter tires, rather than slightly off while on summers)
1st - Redline at ~40mph. Use it to get going from a stop only for now. Eventually, you will get good enough that you can use it for a redlight to redlight driving gear, but i wouldn't recommend it while you are a beginner.
2nd - Redline at ~63mph. Use it for cruising 10mph to 30 or 40. Really fun gear to go WOT burn to redline and still stay legal, especially on-ramps to merge.
3rd - Redline at ~93mph. Use it for cruising 30 to 50 or so. Use 2nd and 3rd here for higher speed merges and outright fun, and only some of it is illegal.
4th - Redline at ~120mph. You can use it for cruising 30-70 if you wish, although you are just burning extra gas here. I would consider it a smooth highway passing gear, rather than a cruise or raw acceleration gear.
5th - Redline at ~140mph. My least used gear. I am rarely in the 120 to 140 range, and cruising in 5th has no benefit at any speed over 6th, and any acceleration you need is better done a gear or two lower.
6th - Redline at ~186mph, although if you are shifting into 6th at 5th's redline, you won't be able to really accelerate any more due to aerodynamic drag. Cruising gear for anything over 40.

Near my work, in the summer months, I have a regular opportunity to do a 0 (from redline) to 120mph 1st through 4th WOT burn with little risk of law enforcement and no risk of involving anyone else, and I use it

Premix is pre-mixing oil into your gas tank. Not just any oil though, but a low ash 2-stroke oil that is meant to be burnt. The reason your 8 burns oil intentionally is because the only way to lubricate the seals inside the engine is to inject oil into the housing, which is where the combustion is occuring. Mazda took the 'consumer friendly' approach to injecting 4-stroke oil from your usual oil supply, however it isn't ideal for the purpose (4-stroke oils aren't designed to be burned), and there is somewhat less oil than there really should be. (Again, a Mazda consumer friendly approach that hurt them in the long run). Premixing 2-stroke oil into your gas tank (4oz minimum, or 1oz per 3 gallons, some people go as high as 12oz per tank, or 1oz per gallon) means that you are now also injecting a proper lubricating oil that is designed to be mixed with gasoline and lubricate engine internals before being burned off cleanly. It really does help the seals.
You still need your normal oil, topped off regularly, and regular changes, since the 4-stroke oils are designed correctly for the bearings within the engine, that 2-stroke premix can't possibly get to. You need both options really.

Can you get by without it? Sure. You could even still end up with a really long life engine. But redlining and premixing is like taking cholesterol medication and exercising for your heart. You are reducing your risk points. It won't eliminate all risk, but it really does help.


Most of the initial engine problems and 'scare' of this car and engine were due to people like you that bought for looks and expected it to be the same as a piston powered sports car, at least you came on here to ask, which immediately puts you ahead of the curve

Mazda voluntarily increased the factory engine warranty on all RX-8s to 8years 100,000 miles. It transfers with the owner, just like any other factory warranty. This is not a powertrain warranty, which covers everything having to do with the engine, transmission, drivetrain, etc... It only covers the engine itself. The factory powertrain warranty is 60,000 miles I believe, bumper to bumper is 36k or 48k, I know they have changed it a few times.

Actually you are in an ideal situation. That slow driving to get out of the complex gives the engine a nice period of light load driving to warm up before you even have a chance to really step on it. If you lived right off a main road that you could get to in seconds, you would find it much harder keeping the revs down until it warmed up.

That sounds classic of someone learning to drive stick, or else moving to a responsive throttle and harder clutch from a faint clutch engagement car. Foot and ankle control will prevent alot of that surging. You will get to the point that in first, from 0 to 40mph, you can keep the speed smooth and steady, even fluctuating it as needed.



The 8 is unique, but sudden failure is rare. Nearly every failure point is a buildup to get there. Just learning about it means you will be better prepared to recognize those signs and get it addressed early and cheaply. Just like watching for cancer signs. Ignore it and by the time you find out there is a problem, it might be terminal, it might not, but is certainly won't be cheap.

crazy4scsa

wow, see now this is what i am talking about, THANK YOU so much for spelling it all out for me, i want to print this and stick it to my dashboard!!!!
i keep re-reading it, it will sink in!
i never gave much thought to working on my own car , my luck i would break something, but finding someone to do it rather then a dealership sounds great!!
i had it in my head this thing would spend more time in the shop then in my driveway! but it seems to be a case of keeping up with it.
have a lot to think about tonight, i planned on getting something else tomorrow but looking around, nothing seems appealing after this one!
thanks!

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

Yeah, you get spoiled by the driving experience in this car I know I am. People that don't pay attention to what the car is telling them maintenance wise though, generally get jaded by the issues they run into.

I researched the 8 for 2 years before purchase, searching for exactly the one I wanted for 4 months before picking up the one I have. It was my dream car before purchase, and 1 day short of 2 years and 4 months later, It is still my dream car, and I enjoy getting in it every single time, regardless of weather, traffic, or mood. Even in terrible conditions, I'd prefer to be in my 8 because it makes everything better


And I know you mentioned you won't drive it in the snow, but just in case you think you have to at some point: If you are on summer tires, DO NOT even try it. If you have winter tires, GO FOR IT!

Snow driving is all in the tires, and this is a fantasic car in the snow, with the correct tires. Try it on summers though, and hopefully you won't get out of the driveway (so you don't wreck it down the street). The salt is a pain, and disheartening, but the driving experience is still great.

hippie-memories

Crazy4's mom here. She told me to come and read. Thank you all for your comments and suggestions.

I'll just stick with my Cobalt until I get my VW Beetle!! Yeah, hippie at heart here.

dondo

iTrader: (7)

that $6k will go a long way in maintaining your car. don't take the hit; stick with the 8 and follow the suggestions these guys have been making.

good luck!

rotarygrl04

Wow i learned even more about my RX8 reading this thread...
crazy4scsa made me laugh so hard sometimes to the point i cried but, few of her doubts were the same ones i had.. guys thanks from me too!