I'm just lost.
07-25-2010, 09:05 PM
#52
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Sounds about right Dan. After changing the mounts, and the fluids, and replacing the cat, my WOT is better than ever. If only I never had to get off the gas...but yes, my car is doing the exact same thing, and yes, I'm scratching my head...Oddly, my cel went off today, for no apparent reason. shortly after, my tps came on, blinked, beeped, and then shut off. I'm pretty sure the car is just becoming a hypochondriact...wants everything to be wrong at the same time...
07-26-2010, 03:23 PM
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Well. New cat did nothing. Dealer test drove it, and the engine is toast. Mazda is replacing it for free.
JDin- Since we have basically the EXACT problems. I would highly suggest you go get a compression test. Your engine is most likely bad....
JDin- Since we have basically the EXACT problems. I would highly suggest you go get a compression test. Your engine is most likely bad....
07-28-2010, 03:20 PM
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Very...you not having a receipt for a scheduled oil change that you didn't have done at a Mazda dealer could be the difference between you getting a free engine and you buying one.
07-29-2010, 12:22 PM
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My dealer didn't ask me for any receipts. My carfax shows oil changed every 3,000 so maybe that's why....but I'll let you know how the car is when I get it back. Looks like the engine may be your problem 
07-29-2010, 08:31 PM
#58
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Hmm, carfax? My dealership didn't believe me when THEY did the oil changes..lol. Definately keep me posted please. I'm gonna persue some other ideas in the meantime, in hopes that we're not in the same boat, lol. Thanks for the update pal. Best of luck to you, hope it all works out!
JD
JD
07-30-2010, 10:20 PM
#59
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So, I have the new supercat on for a couple weeks now...I have issues galore on the way home from work tonight, I sneak a peak under the car after I parked, and guess what I see? My brand new cat glowing red...FML. I'm wondering if I'm having intake issues. I'm parking her until my day off, not risking the new cat for the same issues. I think I'm just trying to avoid the inevitable here. the saga continues.
08-01-2010, 10:14 PM
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So, I have the new supercat on for a couple weeks now...I have issues galore on the way home from work tonight, I sneak a peak under the car after I parked, and guess what I see? My brand new cat glowing red...FML. I'm wondering if I'm having intake issues. I'm parking her until my day off, not risking the new cat for the same issues. I think I'm just trying to avoid the inevitable here. the saga continues.
08-04-2010, 06:56 PM
#61
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I was getting ready to do some work on the car today, turned it on to accessory (checking the time, before removing battery...long story), anyway, I heard a distinct humming, and found it was coming from the area around the throttle body. I pulled the wiring harness, and turned the car back to ACC, and the humming was gone, however when I plugged it back in, and started the car, it threw two codes - P0123 and P0223, for TP CIRCUIT SENSOR No. 1 (and No. 2, respectively). It then idled at 2K rpms consistantly, and had no throttle response. Shut the car down, waited, restarted, acted fine, but codes still showing. I followed the shop manual for testing the throttle body, and had continuity between the harness and the TB itself. Wondering if I was looking in the wrong place the whole time...any thoughts? or just a fluke? Thanks.
08-04-2010, 07:26 PM
#62
JDinJersey- Just to clarify... when you mentioned not having throttle response, you mean the TB valve didn't move while applying gas, correct?
Have you already tried cleaning the TB?
Its possible reseating the connector corrected your issue.
Maybe inspect the pins and ensure some aren't pushed-in.
And the CEL will illuminate for two drive cycles, then if it doesn't report further problems, it'll turn off.
Or you can disconnect the battery for at least 10min to clear it too.
Have you already tried cleaning the TB?
Its possible reseating the connector corrected your issue.
Maybe inspect the pins and ensure some aren't pushed-in.
And the CEL will illuminate for two drive cycles, then if it doesn't report further problems, it'll turn off.
Or you can disconnect the battery for at least 10min to clear it too.
08-04-2010, 07:35 PM
#63
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Resetting by drive cycle was my first thought, I didn't do anything else, drove it around for a bit then parked it. I seemed to not have any issues..not even stalling. I'll take it out again in a bit since it has cooled down, and then we'll see tomarrow.
As far as cleaning, probably about 5 or so months ago now, when I first had the oil-pooling issue. It was a pretty dirty, which was in part why I contacted you about the ssv..which I did check today and was able to move the lever freely, with no resistance, so I take that as a good sign.
I do remember when I had the TB off the first time, that there was what looked like a divet on the bottom backside of the butterfly, almost as though it had grinded away. I'm wondering if something caked there, and was blocking the opening at idle. Probably will check tomarrow in light.
I'm in hopes that I ACCIDENTALLY fixed it lol. Thanks Jon
As far as cleaning, probably about 5 or so months ago now, when I first had the oil-pooling issue. It was a pretty dirty, which was in part why I contacted you about the ssv..which I did check today and was able to move the lever freely, with no resistance, so I take that as a good sign.
I do remember when I had the TB off the first time, that there was what looked like a divet on the bottom backside of the butterfly, almost as though it had grinded away. I'm wondering if something caked there, and was blocking the opening at idle. Probably will check tomarrow in light.
I'm in hopes that I ACCIDENTALLY fixed it lol. Thanks Jon
08-19-2010, 03:38 PM
#64
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So, I replaced my throttle body today. It now actually responds to the pedal, which is nice. It started up great, idled well while warming up. I let it get to temp, then took it out for a drive. Seemed to do well, until I got on a main road, and opened it up a bit. It never stalled, but the idle wasall over the place, between 1000 and a little under 500. I got it home, without it stalling, even though at times it sure felt like it was. Letting it sit at idle, the motor was shaking violently. But still never stalled, so I'm on the right track I think. Its off now, cooling down for a bit. I'm gonna reset, then do a couple drive cycles, hopefully thats what it needs now, just to relearn after it having learned to work with a TB that didnt open..lol. Sound about right?
PS: I know I should get the compression test, and I don't want anyone thinking I'm not taking the advice offered. I did call my local mazda, and they said they won't do the test without them thinking I need it, even after saying I was planning on paying for it. A few local places were just morons. One even told me I should get my pistons checked...he's worked on these cars a hundred times and thats always the case...I hung up on him. Regardless, if this doesn't work, I'll be calling mazda again, and bug them until they cave in. Just wanted to clarify, all advice was taken, and appriciated!
PS: I know I should get the compression test, and I don't want anyone thinking I'm not taking the advice offered. I did call my local mazda, and they said they won't do the test without them thinking I need it, even after saying I was planning on paying for it. A few local places were just morons. One even told me I should get my pistons checked...he's worked on these cars a hundred times and thats always the case...I hung up on him. Regardless, if this doesn't work, I'll be calling mazda again, and bug them until they cave in. Just wanted to clarify, all advice was taken, and appriciated!
09-22-2010, 12:22 PM
#65
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I've still been having the same issues, high end is fine, idle and low end tend to lead to stalling. Idle is still rough, slides from 1K to 500, and occassionally stalls. I've been having to shift under 4K every gear, seems to be the only way to keep it from dying. Seems like its starving at idle, but again, top end is fine, if not better than before. Seem to have a vaccuum leak somewhere, I can hear it around 3K rpms. DTC for air solenoid still showing. Still have MIAC in every gear. Decided to pull the SSV, check the solenoids behind UIM, and inspect all hoses.
Found this:
Cleaned:
.
Cleaned the housing of the intake, and the runners as best I could. Looks almost brand new. Didn't find any bad seals with any hoses, made sure they were snug and clamped properly while putting the engine bay back together. Contact cleaner on the AIR soleniod, visual inspection, looks ok. Didn't have my multimeter in my toolbox for somereason...later found it in my sons room, thanks bud..anyway, cleaned the battery connections and terminals, cleaned the TB and MAF, no oil in intake, catch can FTW. Vented the catch can to open air and capped the nipple from the intake.
Got it all back together, and suprisingly enough, started on the first try, so I didn't miss anything lol. vaccuum leaks gone, so I'm assuming either a hose was crimped, or removing the line from catch to intake solved, either way, 1 problem down. Idle is great, smooth at 900. drove it around for a few minutes, and the problems start...
1.) While driving, its fine, sounds good, moves good, didn't get on it, just drove it around the neighborhood. Problem being, as soon as I take my foot of the gas, the idle falls all the way to 500, hiccups to 700ish, back down, then evens out...Doesn't stall, but close enough.
2.)On second startup, my throttle body "humming" issues reared its ugly head again, I d/c the connection, plug it back in, its ok. The throttle body itself is new. The old one wouldn't open when I depressed the acc. pedal. This body works, but it seems on every other startup, i get no response from the pedal. flooring it takes the rpms to 3K..
3.)boatload of DTCs..:
P0223-tp sensor no. 2 circuit high input
P0123-tp sensor no.1 circuit high input
P0171-system too lean on 2 fuel system
P2259-secondary air something something...(air solenoid)
pending P2070-SSV stuck open (?)
Can you visually see the actuator for the SSV open while revving? I've pressed the arm to open it while idling, and there was no change in rpms, but while having someone rev, I tried to watch for movement of the valve, and nothing. When I put the SSV back in the housing, it slid right in, I can move the valve with no resisitance, so I cant see it getting stuck by anything I did..hopefully.
I'm off tomarrow, so I'm gonna take everything back apart, as much fun as it was the first time, and start testing the sensors and solenoids, provided my son doesn't need my multimeter for his GI JOE desert storm thing hes got going on
.
Any input would be great. I did clear the codes, drove it around a bit, and same codes popped back up. I also reset with the 20 brake stomp, and same result.
Plugs, coils, and wires changed within the past couple of months, not sure exactly when as per mileage. I did my best to not get any chemical into the runners, I sprayed a shop rag and scrubbed, but I guess its possible that I could have just fouled the plugs. I popped a misfire code once, but then it went away and hasn't returned. A little confusing, as it does feel at idle like a misfire. I figure I'll replace the plugs just to be sure.
Sorry such a long post...again...but considering the results of everything I did, I feel like I'm definately getting there. Just have to figure out if I did something wrong in the process. Thanks again for the help.
Found this:
Cleaned:
.Cleaned the housing of the intake, and the runners as best I could. Looks almost brand new. Didn't find any bad seals with any hoses, made sure they were snug and clamped properly while putting the engine bay back together. Contact cleaner on the AIR soleniod, visual inspection, looks ok. Didn't have my multimeter in my toolbox for somereason...later found it in my sons room, thanks bud..anyway, cleaned the battery connections and terminals, cleaned the TB and MAF, no oil in intake, catch can FTW. Vented the catch can to open air and capped the nipple from the intake.
Got it all back together, and suprisingly enough, started on the first try, so I didn't miss anything lol. vaccuum leaks gone, so I'm assuming either a hose was crimped, or removing the line from catch to intake solved, either way, 1 problem down. Idle is great, smooth at 900. drove it around for a few minutes, and the problems start...
1.) While driving, its fine, sounds good, moves good, didn't get on it, just drove it around the neighborhood. Problem being, as soon as I take my foot of the gas, the idle falls all the way to 500, hiccups to 700ish, back down, then evens out...Doesn't stall, but close enough.
2.)On second startup, my throttle body "humming" issues reared its ugly head again, I d/c the connection, plug it back in, its ok. The throttle body itself is new. The old one wouldn't open when I depressed the acc. pedal. This body works, but it seems on every other startup, i get no response from the pedal. flooring it takes the rpms to 3K..
3.)boatload of DTCs..:
P0223-tp sensor no. 2 circuit high input
P0123-tp sensor no.1 circuit high input
P0171-system too lean on 2 fuel system
P2259-secondary air something something...(air solenoid)
pending P2070-SSV stuck open (?)
Can you visually see the actuator for the SSV open while revving? I've pressed the arm to open it while idling, and there was no change in rpms, but while having someone rev, I tried to watch for movement of the valve, and nothing. When I put the SSV back in the housing, it slid right in, I can move the valve with no resisitance, so I cant see it getting stuck by anything I did..hopefully.
I'm off tomarrow, so I'm gonna take everything back apart, as much fun as it was the first time, and start testing the sensors and solenoids, provided my son doesn't need my multimeter for his GI JOE desert storm thing hes got going on
. Any input would be great. I did clear the codes, drove it around a bit, and same codes popped back up. I also reset with the 20 brake stomp, and same result.
Plugs, coils, and wires changed within the past couple of months, not sure exactly when as per mileage. I did my best to not get any chemical into the runners, I sprayed a shop rag and scrubbed, but I guess its possible that I could have just fouled the plugs. I popped a misfire code once, but then it went away and hasn't returned. A little confusing, as it does feel at idle like a misfire. I figure I'll replace the plugs just to be sure.
Sorry such a long post...again...but considering the results of everything I did, I feel like I'm definately getting there. Just have to figure out if I did something wrong in the process. Thanks again for the help.
09-22-2010, 03:21 PM
#68
Extraordinary Engineering
free revving doesn't actuate the SSV but it does gets cycled every time you shut off the ignition. (also the APV motor cycles)
If it doesn't activate then you can work from there.
Do you have a vacuum hand pump?
If it doesn't activate then you can work from there.
Do you have a vacuum hand pump?
Last edited by DarkBrew; 09-22-2010 at 03:24 PM.
09-23-2010, 01:52 AM
#70
JD
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I did reconnect the impact switch and the vaccuum line, but doesn't neccessarily mean its a solid connection. So I'll double check. I don't have a vaccuum pump, but I can grab one tomarrow. I just thought it was odd, I never got a cel for the damn ssv until I took it apart..fix one problem, cause another. I double check every connection, and start testing switches tomarrow. If anything comes to mind, by all means, Im open to advice, and I always have the forum up while I'm working on the car! Thanks guys.
09-23-2010, 09:28 PM
#71
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Took her apart, again...Checked all connections, hoses, etc, everything was tight. Used a mightyvac on the SSV, it moves freely, and is nice and shiny I don't mind saying (Thanks to Jons DIY!!). I tested resistance of the impact switch, 2.4 ohms when pressed. So the valves fine, the switch is fine, testing solenoid tomarrow hopefully. It still baffles me, I didn't get a cel for the SSV with all the issues I was having to begin with, but after I take it out and clean it, its stuck open? So by me taking all the oil/carbon residue off...the ecu thinks its stuck..Ive scratched my head so much I'm getting a bald spot.
I'm also wondering if my eccentric shaft pos could be dirty, Ive read through quite a few threads, and that seems to be a reccommended check, if I get time, it cant hurt to take a look. Just trying not to lose focus.
That being said, if the solenoid tests fine, I'll reset again, and give it a go. Anything else I should check while I've got it all apart? As much as I enjoy the internals, I don't have the time to take it down every other day. thanks again
I'm also wondering if my eccentric shaft pos could be dirty, Ive read through quite a few threads, and that seems to be a reccommended check, if I get time, it cant hurt to take a look. Just trying not to lose focus.
That being said, if the solenoid tests fine, I'll reset again, and give it a go. Anything else I should check while I've got it all apart? As much as I enjoy the internals, I don't have the time to take it down every other day. thanks again
09-24-2010, 12:07 AM
#72
One thing you can do is have someone turn the ignition to 'ON', then back to 'OFF' while you observe the SSV.
If it cycles, you know the solenoid is good.
Another thing you can verify is how the switch acts with the valve itself instead of you pressing it in manually.
Meaning... hook the meter to the impact switch with everything installed, and operate the valve with your vacuum pump like before.
Verify the the switch shows resistance with the valve closed, then open the valve and verify that the circuit it open.
Maybe even clean the electrical contacts for the impact switch just to rule out everything?
If it cycles, you know the solenoid is good.
Another thing you can verify is how the switch acts with the valve itself instead of you pressing it in manually.
Meaning... hook the meter to the impact switch with everything installed, and operate the valve with your vacuum pump like before.
Verify the the switch shows resistance with the valve closed, then open the valve and verify that the circuit it open.
Maybe even clean the electrical contacts for the impact switch just to rule out everything?
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