JDinJersey

So I finally got a weekend off, and dedicated it to taking the car apart. I got new motormounts, found the passenger side mount was cracked pretty bad. Replacing them made a huge difference, no more awful vibration. (You probably could have guessed that.)

I also changed my tranny and rear fluids, (redline), and to reiterate what basically everyone has said, most worthwhile time spent.

On to the problems.
I swapped in my supercat, (took a while to get it here...) in hopes to solve my issues. All went well, and she sounds great. Took it for an easy drive, make sure all was well. Idled great, around 850 give or take, no more backfire. Then I took it on the highway and really opened her up. It felt like it was brand new. . .

Until I stopped. At which point the idle dropped to around 750, and felt like it was about to stall. I'm back to square one. I did, however, finally get a CEL: P2259. Air pump solenoid (shop manual ftw). I haven't had time to look into the connection, will check tomarrow.

My question is, the air pump malfunctioning couldn't really explain a rough idle, especially not after WOT highway drive. Air pumps are generally used for ignition/start up, correct? I'm wondering if while working on the car, I just affected the connection, maybe dirty or pulled taught. Again, back to square one. If anyone has another idea...

I plan to attempt checking the SSV while I have the manifold cover off. Attempt being the key word, as I don't know that I have the patience to be able to take it all apart again. The only other idea I have is maybe a fuel pump? Any advice, or even a theory, would be greatly appriciated. Thanks guys.

Jd

AWJay

Until you threw the CEL, I was going to say fuel pump...theres a lot of issues with the factory fuel pump. That was sounding like the beginning symptoms.

JDinJersey

That was my thought process. The CEL could have nothing to do with my issues, as I said, I'm assuming it got fouled or pulled taught when I was working on it. I've been searching for fuel pump issues, seeing if I can relate. Still open to any theories...
Thanks for the hit AWjay

JDinJersey

Thanks. I wish I did. At this point, I'm willing to try anything in order to keep it out of the dealership. The ones near me are hardly familiar with the motor, and aren't exactly the nicest people I've ever met. Unless the motor is dead (which would obviously be a failur of epic preportions, considering the Rx is maintained by yours truly, which means no receipts...), then I'm determined to figure it out. One piece at a time...

Vyndictive

iTrader: (28)

perhaps a silly question... but how many drive cycles have you had a low idle? Have you given the ecu time to relearn its fuel trims?

Never L8

iTrader: (5)

I was certain the cat was fried and the culpret of all your issues. I'm shocked and running short on ideas. After the money you've already spent, what a few more bucks to replace the fuel pump? Something's got to give, though. Have you considered running a compression check, being an '04? You haven't mentioned a loss of power, but you've damn near addressed almost all of the obvious issues.

JDinJersey

Vyn, as far as since I replaced the cat, I drove it for quite a while yesterday, but I did consider that aspect, and will be taking her out for a while today, in hopes thats the case. Only problem with that situation, is that I'm experiencing almost the exact issues as I was previously, and for about the past year. Mazda has told me several times that there is nothing wrong, and that they can't duplicate. I've taken that as a cop out, hence why I'm flying solo here lol.

Never L8, welcome to my world. All issues pointed to the cat for me. I've worked on cars all my life, this is however my first rotary (thought I'd learn something new...good idea...*sarcasm*). Replacing a fuel pump isn't a big deal to me, well, provided I can figure it out on this car lol. Its just a matter of not replacing things ***** nilly. I have two kids, so dumping money without cause is a tough choice to make.

Vyn, I've read just about all your posts, and Jon's post, especially when it came to the SSV, since I had the same overfilling issue you had. (Mine was my fault however, I was used to the oil filter holding at least .5 qt in my old mustang). I haven't gotten a CEL for that. To be honest I haven't gotten a CEL for friggen anything, until I take something apart. So the car thinks its ok, I think shes in denial. Did you get a CEL right away? Or did you experience your issues for a time without light?

Thans again for the replies guys. I have the shop manual, and I know how to google, but you guys always seem to be dead on. This is probably the most knowledgable forum I've been on. I know I've said it before, but you guys should give yourselves more credit, you give Mazda a run for the money!

adamci24

iTrader: (2)

I have the same issue with my car, but only after it heats up for awhile. I am getting a new cat put in this week. Here is my thread:
https://www.rx8club.com/rx-8-discussion-3/why-my-rx8-stalling-195904/

After your car stalls...Can you turn it back on easily? Or does it crank and you have to let it cool down for awhile before it starts?

JDinJersey

The car only stalled once or twice. I have MT so I just feather the RPMs to keep it at a decent idle. When it did stall, it had a pretty rough time starting, too a few minutes to get it back on. I read through you're whole thread, and our problems are pretty much dead on, up until the VDI codes, which still didn't make much sense in the troublshooting theory. I have already replaced my Cat. Actually, theres a list of things I've done, and all have made great differences, but none have solved the actual problem.

Recent maintenance:

Coils/plugs/wires about 2k ago.
RP super cat
Redline Optima g35 battery
replaced cracked motormounts
seafoamed
cleaned MAF*
Cleaned intae, accordian, and throttle body
installled catch can

I'm not hearing any vaccuum leaks, but that doesn't mean there isn't one.
I'm ruling out the fuel pump, because I have no real issues at higher speeds or RPMs, and through my experience, the fuel pump doesnt work that hard at idle, which is generally my issue.

I'm going to take the TB out again, for some reason I'm recalling it not closing all the way, and thinking that was odd...I'll have to take a look. I'd love to get the SSV out, but I feel like with my schedule and two kids, I might not have time for about a week or so. If the ssv is having issues, intermittent or consistant, would i get the dts immediately? I'm wondering if I should rule it out or not.

Last ditch effort will be compression test. I don't really want the bad news, and I don't have records. Which means I'm probably screwed.

bsteimel

iTrader: (5)

get a compression test, i had similar problems and it was a bad engine. You maybe not need receipts it depends on how much the shop wants to look into it. I took my car to a specific shop for a slew of warranty items, so he knew the history on it, but i do almost everything myself. Fluid, brakes, rotors, wheel bearing etc. I'm betting that your compression is probably right around the "ok" mark. When you get the compression test tell them specifically that you would like a print out of the test for your personal records. If it's not compression your only out $100, comparing to everything else you put it, it's not that much. Also if it isn't the fuel pump you can always put that fuel pump on the shelf for later, that what i did. You going to have to replace it sooner or later.

AWJay

No prob man! My experience with the fuel pumps is failure at idle and mid range power...lots of studdering and loss of power...but there will be no CEL's thrown with the fuel pump...its probably not it. but its at least a possibility still that is just beginning.

hopefully not...cause they are about 275 bucks. I had to buy one

JDinJersey

Was it a PIA to swap out? Is the upgraded pump worth the money?

adamci24

iTrader: (2)

The Fuel pump is pretty hard to swap. It needs to be tightened extremely hard and dealers usually have specific tools to do the job....I'm supposedly getting my car back today...I will see if my new Cat, radiator, and header made any difference in my car. If not, I think between both of us it is the Fuel Pump or Engine.

You could also try putting in a bottle of fuel cleaner in the tank when you fill up next. I used Valvoline cleaner in a silver bottle, and the car had a steady idle and never stalled for about a month...then it came back.

Right before you stall, or have the issues, does your car bog out and buck/vibrate at idle? Mine acts like crazy, and then shuts off. I know about 2 min before it is going to stall because of these symptoms...

jasonrxeight

seafoam in the tank?

VashGS

Compression test and new reman engine. Probably... get er' done.

adamci24

iTrader: (2)

No..I seafoamed the car regularly, but also added fuel line cleaner to my tank. Both helped. But didn't fix anything.

JDinJersey

Adam - yes, it shudders when I slow down, then shakes like a b*tch. That's why I replaced mounts, as much as it helped, it didn't solve that problem. I tried driving it today, and the idle was crazylike. I would come to a stop, and the idle would go up to 2k, then work its way down to around 700, then bounce around. It finally stalled, but I was doing like 30 at the time...odd..popped clutch, drove home, swapped cars. I'm gonna try taking a look at the ssv. Making a last ditch effort before compression test. Let me know how things go, sounds like were all in the same boat.

adamci24

iTrader: (2)

Mine does the exact same thing. Not all the time, but when I drive it awhile...My RPM will also go up to 2k and back down and jump like crazy, then stall. I had a compression test done, and my numbers were not great but did not fail.

Let me know how the SSV goes...

JDinJersey

Won't be working on the car for a couple days. My boss says its more important to come to work instead...I disagree, but no job = no money for car, so I guess its logical....lol

I'll let ya know how it goes. I think we should play a game, everyone fix something different, first one to get the car to stop stalling wins!

danielk015

iTrader: (1)

JD, thanks for the thread.. how many miles are on your car? I just started having some of these issues after taking my car into the dealership just to get a flash done... I am going to do the usual plug, wire and coil swap, hopefully it fixes it.

JDinJersey

Its an 04, mt, i'm clocking ~74000mi. Hope all goes well Dan, give us an update, so we can compare issues and fixes.

Never L8

iTrader: (5)

Dude...I hear you on not dumping more money in just to see what happens. At this point, my biggest suggestion would be my first one, and that is to get your compression checked. You almost hope it's not a blown engine, but at the same time, you do. At least you'll get an answer. I would probably check compression before throwing in a new fuel pump.

JDinJersey

Neverl8 - totally agree at this point. Probably going to make appt with dealer for this week. Just gotta find time to put the stock cat back on, after just having done it, just for sake of I don't want to hear it from them. I guess well see.

danielk015

iTrader: (1)

JD, i swapped out my coils, plugs, wires and had the same result as you.. after the swap, my engine was closed so the car seemed to be running good. went on the highway for about a 20 mile trip and as i got off and started to get to a stop, pretty much straight died when i got to low RPMs, under 700.. It really feels like someone just turns off the battery at low RPMs. The engine runs well in WOT and no lag (at least in my point of view) when I accelerate. It also starts up right away after the stall (don't have to wait until engine is cold). Scratching my head on what it could be

DeViLbOi

iTrader: (1)

Was the underside of your car glowing when you stalled Daniel?