bluesnickers

Hate to start new thread about an issue that has been discussed before but I'm getting to a point where I don't know what else to do except take it to the dealer.

05 MT with 50,xxx miles,
Just put new plugs, coils, wires, new air filter(Stock intake with k&n filter, the screen thing is still there), oil change with castrol gtx 5-20 about 100mile ago or so.

Cleaned out MAF sensor, TB,(did not part it out, took out the intake and cleaned front of TB).

Here's the problem, when I start the car, it's not too bad but sometimes take more than few seconds to start. And when engine is cold, the rpm stays
1250 to 1500. It doesn't fluctuate or anything, and after few minutes when warms up, drops to 750 rpm which I think is normal.( at stop)

Whenever car is at stop,(when temp is warm) car idles rough, the shifter and I can feel the whole car shaking. The rpm prolly moves up and down btw 725-750. No CEL or noticable power loss. If anything, car stalls alittle or hesitation occurs when rolling on 2nd at stop sign etc(low rpm.)

According to service bulletin, IF engine mount is bad, you will feel hesitaion when decelerating in 3rd and accelerating again, but NOT mine. Still pulls hard in 3rd gear when accerating again starting below 30 mph.

Sorry it's long but WHAT'S NEXT? Any suggestions welcome!

DocBeech

iTrader: (1)

physically check your engine mounts, make sure your ac is off when your testing these things out. double check your screen behind the intake and make sure its in right. when you first start the car it should for a couple mins run at a high rpm since its using more fuel to warm up the vehicle.

bluesnickers

Thanks. I will double check the screen. Is ther easy way to take air box out? Everytime when I take it out, I break plastic parts. As far as engine mount, there's no leak or anything. Ways to test engine mounts? or do I have to take it out?

DocBeech

iTrader: (1)

break plastic parts? as in how? lol. the only problem i have when i pull the box is the wire that runs over the leading edge, if it doesnt pull out or feel like its snagged, it probably is so just double check or get someone to help you.

Mazurfer

Wait guys, so he continually breaks plastic parts off everytime he removes the airbox, so this begs the question...............what have you replaced these plastic part with when you break them?
I also assume it's the hose elbows to the accordian that you are snapping, so you sure you don't have a leak there?

bluesnickers

My bad, it's nothing major, first time I broke the hose elbow(holding hose) underneath the airbox, then third time, one of the legs off of airbox that's supposed go in and hold the air box.
I tried the brake pedal thing but never got it to work. I guess the gas gauge is supposed to move up and down.
If I remember correctly put the key to 'on' position, hit the brake 20 times.
Am I not pushing the pedal enough or something?
And what's ess??

As far as vac leak goes, I doubt it's vac leak as there's not much of rpm movement.

Mazurfer

No, you gotta turn the car to on but not start, then you have to tap the brake pedal pretty quickly until the oil gauge sweeps to the right and then back to the left. Once it does that, you know you got the ESS(Eccentric Shaft Sensor) reset.
If it doesn't work, turn the car off, wait a few seconds and repeat it again.
Keep an eye on the oil gauge while you do this and watch for it to sweep. You gotta tap pretty quickly but not hard(only enough for the brake lights to come on), and it may take 20-25 times until it sweeps.