Idle jumping like crazy!!!!
That is typical idle hunt when the ECU can't detect that the transmission is in neutral. It goes away when you push in the clutch, correct?
The problem is with your neutral switch. It's possible that it froze from the cold, it's possible that wiring was damaged (either on top of the transmission or above the clutch pedal), it's possible that recent transmission/clutch/drivetrain work may have left it unplugged, and it's possible that the switch is simply failing. The switches don't commonly fail however, so I'd guess at one of the other items first before just paying to have it replaced.
The problem is with your neutral switch. It's possible that it froze from the cold, it's possible that wiring was damaged (either on top of the transmission or above the clutch pedal), it's possible that recent transmission/clutch/drivetrain work may have left it unplugged, and it's possible that the switch is simply failing. The switches don't commonly fail however, so I'd guess at one of the other items first before just paying to have it replaced.
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That is typical idle hunt when the ECU can't detect that the transmission is in neutral. It goes away when you push in the clutch, correct?
The problem is with your neutral switch. It's possible that it froze from the cold, it's possible that wiring was damaged (either on top of the transmission or above the clutch pedal), it's possible that recent transmission/clutch/drivetrain work may have left it unplugged, and it's possible that the switch is simply failing. The switches don't commonly fail however, so I'd guess at one of the other items first before just paying to have it replaced.
The problem is with your neutral switch. It's possible that it froze from the cold, it's possible that wiring was damaged (either on top of the transmission or above the clutch pedal), it's possible that recent transmission/clutch/drivetrain work may have left it unplugged, and it's possible that the switch is simply failing. The switches don't commonly fail however, so I'd guess at one of the other items first before just paying to have it replaced.
Last edited by Ifoundyou1123; Jul 14, 2017 at 10:24 AM.
Correct about the idle hunt. When the neutral switch is malfunctioning, the revs will oscillate across a 1,000+ rev range. The exact range can vary from car to car, but that entirely sounds normal for a malfunctioning neutral switch.
If pushing in the clutch does not return it to a normal idle, then you probably also have a problem with the clutch switch. Since the wiring for both switches passes right above the clutch pedal, it's possible there was some damage done there, or stuff shorting out.
Keep in mind that our throttle is entirely ECU controlled. What you are seeing is deliberate instructions from the ECU. This is a wiring and electrical problem, not an engine problem. The ECU is telling the engine to do this, and is only doing so because it sees something wrong with the normal idle state. Finding what the problem is that is causing the ECU to make this decision is the goal. And it's going to be related to and/or directly involving the neutral switch.
If pushing in the clutch does not return it to a normal idle, then you probably also have a problem with the clutch switch. Since the wiring for both switches passes right above the clutch pedal, it's possible there was some damage done there, or stuff shorting out.
Keep in mind that our throttle is entirely ECU controlled. What you are seeing is deliberate instructions from the ECU. This is a wiring and electrical problem, not an engine problem. The ECU is telling the engine to do this, and is only doing so because it sees something wrong with the normal idle state. Finding what the problem is that is causing the ECU to make this decision is the goal. And it's going to be related to and/or directly involving the neutral switch.
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 4
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Correct about the idle hunt. When the neutral switch is malfunctioning, the revs will oscillate across a 1,000+ rev range. The exact range can vary from car to car, but that entirely sounds normal for a malfunctioning neutral switch.
If pushing in the clutch does not return it to a normal idle, then you probably also have a problem with the clutch switch. Since the wiring for both switches passes right above the clutch pedal, it's possible there was some damage done there, or stuff shorting out.
Keep in mind that our throttle is entirely ECU controlled. What you are seeing is deliberate instructions from the ECU. This is a wiring and electrical problem, not an engine problem. The ECU is telling the engine to do this, and is only doing so because it sees something wrong with the normal idle state. Finding what the problem is that is causing the ECU to make this decision is the goal. And it's going to be related to and/or directly involving the neutral switch.
If pushing in the clutch does not return it to a normal idle, then you probably also have a problem with the clutch switch. Since the wiring for both switches passes right above the clutch pedal, it's possible there was some damage done there, or stuff shorting out.
Keep in mind that our throttle is entirely ECU controlled. What you are seeing is deliberate instructions from the ECU. This is a wiring and electrical problem, not an engine problem. The ECU is telling the engine to do this, and is only doing so because it sees something wrong with the normal idle state. Finding what the problem is that is causing the ECU to make this decision is the goal. And it's going to be related to and/or directly involving the neutral switch.
Last edited by Ifoundyou1123; Jul 14, 2017 at 10:24 AM.
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