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Help with nicked wires

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Old Jul 4, 2014 | 12:59 PM
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From: Canfield, AR
Help with nicked wires

I had to replace my alternator and when I put the water pump pulley back on the wires that sit behind the pulley were nicked. Non of them were cut in half. Well it instantly killed my car. I wrapped the wires in electrical tape and put everything back together and still will only turn over and not crank up. I believe the wires goto the throttle body because once I connected the battery I could hear the throttle body whirling. So I disconnected it and reconnected it and it stopped but car will still not crank. Anyone have any idea?
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Old Jul 5, 2014 | 02:47 PM
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Please upload some photos so everyone knows what u talkin about.

Greetings
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Old Jul 5, 2014 | 09:27 PM
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From: Canfield, AR
Ok will do
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Old Jul 5, 2014 | 10:07 PM
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From: Planet Earth
which wire? got pics ?

you probably burned a fuse, check that.

worst case is u burned ur ECU, well, not really that bad, u just need to get another used one and program it with IDS (dealer, or someone like me who has it)

Last edited by nycgps; Jul 5, 2014 at 10:09 PM.
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Old Jul 6, 2014 | 11:28 AM
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From: Canfield, AR
http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/...ickedwires.jpg

The wires are in this bundle which leads to where my thumb is pointing. Is the ECU the black box with all the plugs or the gray brick one under the black box ?
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Old Jul 6, 2014 | 11:46 AM
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From: Smallville
Mod Edit:

One thread on this issue is enough :-) Threads merged
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Old Jul 6, 2014 | 12:38 PM
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They look like the OMP wiring harness......you will need to fix them or the car will go into limp mode

It shouldn't make it not start though.....
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Old Jul 6, 2014 | 02:07 PM
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From: Canfield, AR
Sorry about that. You don't think I shorted something out do you ? Possibly fuel pump or like someone else mentioned my ECU ? I've repaired the wires still will only turn over.
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Old Jul 6, 2014 | 02:20 PM
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I would think it unlikely that you suddenly got a new and unique unrelated problem.

Look at the circuit that was a problem...any fuses? How does it interrelate with other circuits?

If after you are sure it isn't that...move on to something else

Usually there is a reason for failures

If you need a wiring diagram let me know by PM and I can send you one
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Old Jul 6, 2014 | 07:09 PM
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From: Canfield, AR
I'm gonna get a multimeter tomorrow to check the larger black fuses and take my ECU to the dealership to get checked out and make sure its ok.
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Old Jul 6, 2014 | 08:55 PM
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Your dealer will not be able to do anything with your ECU without the car......
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Old Jul 7, 2014 | 02:40 PM
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From: Canfield, AR
Ya, trying to figure out what to do now. I sent you a PM did you get it ?
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Old Jul 7, 2014 | 08:10 PM
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From: Canfield, AR
Ok used a multimeter and tested the fuel, ignition relays both tested fine. All other fuses were fine. Any other ideas?
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Old Jul 8, 2014 | 11:28 AM
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From: Bay City Tx
It's either a fuse, flooded, or the ECU is fried. Our ECU is pretty resilient to shorting, but if you connected one of the sensor leads to +12volts you MAY have let the smoke out of it.

Check ALL fuses both under the hood and in the foot-well. If you popped one of the ECU related fuses (they are not well labeled at all), but the problem is solved then you may be good to go. Also what exactly are the symptoms? It will crank but won't start? Anything else? Gas smell? Could it be flooded from your attempts to start?

After testing ALL the fuses I'd pull the e-shaft sensor connector and all 4 plugs then spin it through a few times to dry it out. When the gas smell stops put everything back and try to fire it up. It's the only way to know for sure. Also it's a lot better than having the dealership spend thousands of dollars of your money diagnosing a flooded Rx, because they gladly will.

Oh and if you do take it to a dealership, do not under any circumstances tell them that you may have fried the ECU. That will just give them reason to replace the most expensive parts first without actually checking the simple stuff.
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Old Jul 8, 2014 | 03:14 PM
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From: Canfield, AR
Well did everything you mentioned. All ready checked all the fuses and relays in foot well and main fuse box, all tested ok. The fuel pump 20a fuse looked a little dark maybe corroded so changed it anys but no change. I cleaned the ESS it had some metal dust on it, the MAF, and plugs. I tried deflooding but pretty sure wasn't flooded. There wasn't any gas smell or mist coming out when I would turn the engine. All the car will do is just keep spinning still will not crank.
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Old Jul 8, 2014 | 03:46 PM
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From: Bay City Tx
I still think it's flooded. Could you be specific about when you said " Well it instantly killed my car." Did it crank and run then die? Did it refuse to crank? Did some things not work? Did smoke pour out?

Also how many times have you tried to start it since then?

Pull the plugs again, I bet they are wet. A simple deflood may not be enough if it's bad enough, and the only solution at that point is either what I recommended above, or the windshield washer fluid deflood (which I've had hit or miss with, but should at least try to fire), or pull start with another vehicle. If the plugs are completely dry then it's time to go to the dealership and expect to pay thousands of dollars as they throw parts at it.

Oh and did you disconnect anything else when you replaced the alternator? Maybe one of the plugs on the ECU? I've had the immobilizer go screwy because one of the plugs wasn't seated all the way.
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Old Jul 8, 2014 | 10:02 PM
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From: Canfield, AR
I figured it out today finally. I had overlooked a fuse that went to the ECU or ECI comp 1. I think it was a 10amp fuse. Once I replaced it, it fired right up. Thanks for the help everyone !!
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