BigCajun

iTrader: (1)

Then it's probably bad.
I think if it was truly flooded then it wouldn't even sound like it wanted to start.
I've had 2 floods, the last was from a weak battery, maybe 3 yrs. old from Advance.
It sounded ok, but even hooked to a charger/booster, it would slow down after a few cranks, and wouldn't start.
Took it back and they told me it tested good.
I told them I knew it was bad and insisted they give me another battery.
It was a pro rated warranty, so I paid about half price.
Put the new one in and it started on the first try, idled rough for a bit, then cleared out and has been fine ever since.
I still have the OEM terminals, but I had to shim them.

ShadowGryphon

Thats exactly how mine is acting. After 3-4 attempts its so low that all the lights dim and all the warning lights stsrt to flicker. I watched the voltage with my scanner, while jumping it was at 12.9-13.2 but the moment you cranked it would drop to 9.8-10.3. Gonna grab the battery at lunch and test it at work, and bring the printout saying bad to Oreillys. It a red top Optima so it has a 3 year warranty

BigCajun

iTrader: (1)

Red Tops have been getting bad reviews around here lately, but if you have some warranty left, then no worries.
If they insist it's good, talk to the manager and insist on a replacement.
If they won't honor the warranty, go with something cheaper.

ShadowGryphon

I bought it before I saw the bad reviews. If they replace it, then when it dies out of warranty I will either go with a Yellow Top or another agm battery

ShadowGryphon

Maybe the battery just needed to be charged. Its now been sitting on the tester/charger we have for almost an hour and a half. Gonna let it charge as long as it needs to, then test again.

Edit: after an hour and 45 minutes the tester said it is bad, so now to get Oreillys to replace it.

ShadowGryphon

Well, they swapped the battery with no questions asked. Got home, swapped the plugs out as well, good thing I did because the old ones were wet. Put the Aftermarket Injen intake back on because why not, I want the intake to not be part of the issue. Connected the battery and turned the key. Fired up almost instantly, ran for a second and died. Fired it up again and feathered the throttle and its now idling.

Edit: Oddly enough, the only 2 codes to throw so far ar the P0336 ESS sensor performance/range and the P2259 Air Injection circuit (caused by a disconnected air pump). So far, knock on wood, non of the codes for the vacuum solenoids have thrown

BigCajun

iTrader: (1)

I don't understand.
If you had a stock intake on it already, you should have left it on to see if everything would be normal.

Or did you mean that you put it back on hoping it wouldn't be a problem?

ShadowGryphon

I put it back on hoping it wasnt part of the problem lol. Still has a starting issue that is related to the ess sensor and/or signal as it takes a few seconds to start, but I can watch the tach go nuts as it struggles. Gonna tackle that this weekend after I get the wiring diagrams from AllData at work.

BigCajun

iTrader: (1)

I suggest you put the stock intake back on while you continue troubleshooting.
It's the best way to be sure your MAF is not affecting anything.
You can always put the Injen back on once you're satisfied that your other issues are resolved.

ShadowGryphon

Im fairly certain its not the MAF. I can sit there cranking and watch the tach go from 250ish to 0 to 300ish and back. But, I will heed your suggestion just to be safe. What would you suggest for tge P0336 ESS range/performance code? So far youve been right on every issue so I would appreciate your input oh knowledgeable one lol.

I did the brake stomp too.

BigCajun

iTrader: (1)

I haven't read back, but you know about resetting the NVRAM (20 brake stomp) anytime you disconnect the battery and that it takes a few cycles to re-learn it's trims, yes?

BigCajun

iTrader: (1)

I plead ignorance on that one.
You'll have to research it.
Just be sure to reset it and give it a few cycles before you try anything else.

Just spitballing, but maybe it needs to relearn everything since you had several issues at once.

Everything else I've had personal experience with, so live and learn.

ShadowGryphon

​​​I'll crawl back under it tomorrow and check the connector. My fat hands probably didnt reconnect it all the way lol. I tell you what though, at this point I am very happy that I am a stubborn, hard-headed individual. Had I listened to the local Mazda dealer 2 years ago I would have paid for an engine when all I ended up needing are a fuel pump, plugs, wires, coils, a starter, and a battery (so far). So very glad I ignored them.

BigCajun

iTrader: (1)

Did you get a failing compression test, or did they just tell you it was bad?

ShadowGryphon

Their specific wording was that it was "pushing compression through the radiator" and that the radiator cap shot off like a rocket when he went to remove it. I've never seen signs of compression in the radiator overflow tank and I've never had the cap fly off. It only released pressure when I overfilled it. It idles fine now, and the only time it started to run hot was when the plastic shield under the radiator wasn't secured properly.

Steve Dallas

Yes.

Aftermarket intakes, including the Injen, are known to cause all sorts of problems in this car--especially at idle. The stock airbox, with screens intact, is the BEST intake for this car. It is already a cold air intake, and it is not restrictive. If you want it to be louder, disconnect the VFAD and cap the vacuum nipple.

Other than stock, the ONLY other intakes that consistently work well are the AEM and Racing Beat units. The AEM makes noise and looks cool, if you like shiny tubes. The RB looks stock. These intakes preserve solid idle, assuming they are installed exactly according to the instructions. They may even give you a 2 to 3 hp gain at 7500 RPM.

Pretty much ALL other intakes cause idle problems and COST power.

Get everything fixed and running right. Let the car learn to idle and build maps for all driving conditions. Then, if you absolutely must futz with that intake, do it afterward. Like a month afterward.

ShadowGryphon

I'm not saying you are wrong, but last i checked, an intake can't cause issues with a crank/ess signal. Now that I've replaced the battery, the fuel pump, and swapped in dry plugs, it idles perfectly. The only issue it has now is an extremely intermittent crank/ess signal. But as i did swap the sensor a few times in the last week, there is a possibility that the connector is loose. Will check that and my ground before i do anything else. Now i have said i will swap the stock intake back in just for testing purposes, but for now i strongly believe that the issue lies in the ess sensor circuit. If you have any input on P0336, it is greatly appreciated.

Sorry if i seem rude or stubborn or hard headed, it's just really hard for me to see how an intake can affect the crank signal. And i know it's the crank signal as the tach will drop to zero after more than 3 seconds of cranking.

Steve Dallas

It's cool. I'm thinking of 2 things:

1. The first rule of troubleshooting is: change one thing at a time and verify the results. The corollary is: use known good parts as much as possible, and certainly do not use known bad parts.
2. We have a lot of people cling to parts that are known to cause problems around here, and aftermarket intakes are the most popular offenders.

BigCajun

iTrader: (1)

https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-aft...intakes-90202/
The stock intake and PAPER filters are the best option.
The reusable ones do not filter as well, and allow grit to be introduced into your engine, not a good thing.
If sound is the goal, there is a VFAD mod that accomplishes the same thing.

If it's the thought of 'wasting' $350, maybe try to sell or trade it for something that's actually useful, like a used BHR midpipe.

We're not lecturing, just trying to help.

ShadowGryphon

All this talk about vfad makes me wish I had a 6 port lol. I must not have mentioned that its a 4 port AT

Steve Dallas

^ In that case, kill it with fire. All problems solved.

ShadowGryphon

I would rather save up for a 6 port mt swap lmao.

BigCajun

iTrader: (1)

Cheaper & easier to buy another 8 with the MT.

ShadowGryphon

Looks like I'm going to have to buy a better scanner. Theres is a signal somewhere not getting where it needs to be. Also found out that flooring ny gas pedal while cranking does NOT shut the fuel pump. I thought doing that shut the pump off and killed the spark? Either way, as it cranks over it sounds like its just spinning. Almost sounds the same as if you disconnect the ess with the plugs still in and crank it. Any ideas? And yes, I tried both of the ESS sensors I have AND both the Injen and stock intake. Here a picture of the rpm readout, gonna see about gwtting a better scantool to see the crank/ess signal and maybe injector signal.

BigCajun

iTrader: (1)

Did you floor it after it wouldn't start thinking it was flooded?
I do the method where you pull the fuel pump fuse, but if it wouldn't start normally after you've already started it Idk why it would flood.