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Wheres the best place to purchase a replacement, and what brabd for that matter? I can get a Delphi for $130 on RockAuto, and was about to order it but dont want to do it again for atleast another year lol
I am using a flat head screwdriver and a mallet to remove the ring. What is the percent chance that all of these issues are fuel pump related? I can get a pump today, but I don'/ want to spend the money if that isnt a very likely reason for my problem. Or should I just replace it anyways?
I have the worst luck. I got to the store to pick it up and the inlet siphon for the other side of the tank was broke off, and no one else has it in stock. They couldnt even order another one.
I have the worst luck. I got to the store to pick it up and the inlet siphon for the other side of the tank was broke off, and no one else has it in stock. They couldnt even order another one.
That's weird.
You can have it shipped directly to you if you don't mind waiting.
I am using a flat head screwdriver and a mallet to remove the ring. What is the percent chance that all of these issues are fuel pump related? I can get a pump today, but I don'/ want to spend the money if that isnt a very likely reason for my problem. Or should I just replace it anyways?
It probably won't solve your solenoid issues, but it could help with your starting problem.
Also, if you have a used pump with 60k, it's probably weak/clogged.
If you plan on keeping it, it won't be wasted money.
It probably won't solve your solenoid issues, but it could help with your starting problem.
Also, if you have a used pump with 60k, it's probably weak/clogged.
If you plan on keeping it, it won't be wasted money.
Since the only thing that changed between Fridays cold start and Saturdays Cold start was the fuel pump its more than likely the pump causing all my issues. I'm going to wait until the refund hits my account and then order it online. Hopefully it wont show up broken lol.
Good news on the intake.
It seems they're more trouble than they're worth for the most part.
Most people here agree the stock intake is very good as is, and it appears from what I've read is the sound difference is the most obvious improvement.
Idk if there is a sticky about aftermarket intake pros and cons, but we really should have one.
Good luck with your solenoid issues.
I find such upgrades to be completely useless, much like installing a K&N filter and exhaust that make more farting-through-a-can sounds. But that's me.
To stay ontopic, you might want to check whether the ignition is set up correctly, and whether all plugs also actually fire. I've once disconnected the Leading 1 coil to see what it does, and it ran similar to how yours is running. Except that I believe that an entire rotor is just dead in this case. Dead, meaning it just doesn't spark.
Also try to disconnect the MAF sensor, and see how the car runs. But since it doesn't get any feedback of the density of the air, it will assume it runs in -40 degrees celsius and make it run very rich.
It might help to record the OBD2 data and put it in a graph, so we can see when what happens at what time, what load and what RPM. In my opinion, that's the best you could do so we can maybe spot something. Otherwise we are just randomly guessing anyway.
I find such upgrades to be completely useless, much like installing a K&N filter and exhaust that make more farting-through-a-can sounds. But that's me.
Hell, my daily driver hasa Weapon R intake, an OBX Header with no cat, and a DC Sports cat back. The cat back had what people would refer to as a "fart can" but it sounded really really good. Put a thrush turbo on it until I go to court for this noise violation ticket and it sounds more "fart can" than an actual "fart can".
Either way, with the 8 I want to run the exhaust as unrestrictive as possible, and the intake was really an impulse buy. But I prefer cleanable to replaceable filters all day long. And there is a good chance that the intake wasnt the problem anyways. If Advanced had another fuel pump that WASNT broken in the box I would know, but now I have to wait lol. Either way, this car will be running by the end of the month lol.
I do agree to some extent. Just throwing an intake on the car will have little to no effect unless you remove the coolant lines amgoing to the throttle body as well. Cold air intake aint gonna do much if the throttle body is heated lol.
Last edited by ShadowGryphon; 04-02-2017 at 12:56 PM.
Hell, my daily driver hasa Weapon R intake, an OBX Header with no cat, and a DC Sports cat back. The cat back had what people would refer to as a "fart can" but it sounded really really good. Put a thrush turbo on it until I go to court for this noise violation ticket and it sounds more "fart can" than an actual "fart can".
Either way, with the 8 I want to run the exhaust as unrestrictive as possible, and the intake was really an impulse buy. But I prefer cleanable to replaceable filters all day long. And there is a good chance that the intake wasnt the problem anyways. If Advanced had another fuel pump that WASNT broken in the box I would know, but now I have to wait lol. Either way, this car will be running by the end of the month lol.
Your intake likely was causing problems with your idle issues.
It's VERY common.
You coincidentally have other issues, which isn't unheard of either.
Your intake likely was causing problems with your idle issues.
It's VERY common.
You coincidentally have other issues, which isn't unheard of either.
Hey, that just means I have something to test when I replace the pump. I would like for the $315 intake to not be part of the problem, but will accept that it might be lol. I do now that even with the stock intake the idle issue and misfire didnt completely disappear until I swapped the stock pump in. And even then, it still had a small hesitation every couple times I revved it. Thats why I am hoping it is just the pump lol. But its a project car, its meant to be fiddled with and experimented on. Someone once gave me a piece of advice that I had forgotten until now. "A project car is never completely finished, theres always something you can do with or to it"
I do agree to some extent. Just throwing an intake on the car will have little to no effect unless you remove the coolant lines amgoing to the throttle body as well. Cold air intake aint gonna do much if the throttle body is heated lol.
On other cars, sure. The RX8 intake already takes cold air before the radiator. At speed intake temp is 2-4F above ambient. There is nothing to improve.
I find such upgrades to be completely useless, much like installing a K&N filter and exhaust that make more farting-through-a-can sounds. But that's me.
To stay ontopic, you might want to check whether the ignition is set up correctly, and whether all plugs also actually fire. I've once disconnected the Leading 1 coil to see what it does, and it ran similar to how yours is running. Except that I believe that an entire rotor is just dead in this case. Dead, meaning it just doesn't spark.
Also try to disconnect the MAF sensor, and see how the car runs. But since it doesn't get any feedback of the density of the air, it will assume it runs in -40 degrees celsius and make it run very rich.
It might help to record the OBD2 data and put it in a graph, so we can see when what happens at what time, what load and what RPM. In my opinion, that's the best you could do so we can maybe spot something. Otherwise we are just randomly guessing anyway.
I didnt realize you had added to your post until now. As for checking the ignition, it has been checked, rechecked, and triple checked this week trying to solve the dead miss. And to be honest? The way it idled before swapping the stock intake and stock pump back in, it felt like it had a dead rotor. Not sure if the intake contributed to that as the misfire and half-engine feeling didnt go away til after I swapped the stock pump in. Once I swapped the stock pump back it it idled perfectly, at the correct rpm. It also had instant throttle response where as before the pump swap it was laggy. Another thing I noticed is that the fuel trims after the swap were all negative, where they were all positive before. Now, the stock pump did take a few couple seconds to restart the enfine when it was at operating temp, where the aftermarket one I would have to wait 15-20 minutes to restart. I will grab my big scanner from work and grab all the data when attempting to start with it that I can. But for now, I am fairly certain that the problem keeping it from starting is the fuel pump. Especially since I was able to cold start it on Friday with the stock intake and aftermarket pump, but Saturday it refused to cold start with the stock intake and stock fuel pump. As the only difference was the pump, thats where I am starting, especially since my stock pump has 60k on it.
Got the fuel pump today, will be installing it after work. Figured I would post pictures as it appears CarQuest/ Airtex has redesigned the pump again. It also appears to use the shorter style pump. Well, shorter than the stock Arram anyways. Looks the same length as my 265lph pump I had in the stock housing. Will update yall on how the new one works.
You and me both. One thing I dont see is that piece you have to melt on the stock pump. Would I still be able to swap a 265lph pump in? Or would it blow something else?
You and me both. One thing I dont see is that piece you have to melt on the stock pump. Would I still be able to swap a 265lph pump in? Or would it blow something else?
I have no idea what you're talking about concerning melting anything..
Update: new pump improved its ability to WANT to start. Itll fire up for a second then die. There is a huge chance it is flooded again so will be pulling plugs after work and deflooding.
Update: new pump improved its ability to WANT to start. Itll fire up for a second then die. There is a huge chance it is flooded again so will be pulling plugs after work and deflooding.
Is your battery healthy?
Be sure it's fully charged and the terminals are clean and tight on the posts, they can stretch over time.
Is your battery healthy?
Be sure it's fully charged and the terminals are clean and tight on the posts, they can stretch over time.
Ive got beefy marine terminals on it with the nuts cranked down. And as for health? Personally, I think its bad. The tester I have at work (Nissan Dealer) shows bad, but Oreillys shows good.
04-02-2017, 09:37 AM
