http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AXzcYmHOrew

 

Yikes, looks like compression failure possibly. Sounds like one of your rotors is shot hence the shaking. Im sure someone else can confirm/deny that claim. I would get it towed to the dealer and not drive it

 

did you change the
1-coils
2-wires
3-spark plugs
????????????? more info of the car

 

right after this video i changed the sparkplugs they were pretty messed up the turned the car back on and the shaking did not stop i had another thread on this its just wasnt with out the video i put t he video so u guys can c what i was talking about

 

Please give us some more info... How many miles? What service and parts(coils and wires most likely) has the car had? Have you been having any other problems. What mods have you got? Can you get a hold of a Rotary compression tester?

 

the car has 82.xxx miles on it its 04 the only mod i have is an k&n intake as u can c on the vid right after the vid i went ahead and and change the spark plugs which were pretty mest up. the day before this happen i dint have any problems it was till the next morning that i came to work then my cousin came and borrowed the car and like 10 minutes later he called me and told me that my car was idling low then he said it turned off him and a few hours later he said it just didnt want to turn back on at all so he towed it home and thats when we made this vid

 

How where the plugs "pretty mess-up"?
Were they saturated with fuel or oil?
Was it evident on one rotor? both? just leading? just trailing?

 

ummmm well they looked black and rusty all four looked the same

 

DUDE!! I have the same exact problem with my RX8 now! I don't know if you realized or not but if you let your car on for 5 more mins your CAT will glow like a star! and also u'll notice a smell like burnt plastic or something coming from it with smoke :s I changed my spark plugs already and now im going to change the coils and give it a try.

https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.p...31#post3743431

I read some say its because of the failed compression in the rotors?? I wonder how bad that could be! Now im scared if the engine has an issue!!

 

yeah i was reading you thread earlier but i did let my car on for like 15 min but no i didnt anything like what just described it was just the rattling

 

time for new spark plugs or even coils
if still the same, new engine

 

this is so wierd !! my car started doing the same thing 3 days ago and it kept stalling in me before. the thing is that i already had a misfire going on and was about to order the plugs, wires and coils and then this happened. the thing that freaked me out was that when i got home and started to try and figure out what was wrong with it, there were flames coming out of the exhaust while the car was at idle... i never thought to check the cat and see if it was red hot... does anyone know how to check if the coils are still good? im starting to get a feeling that the dealer didn't change them before i bought it

 

ok..so I also had the same problem..glowing near the cat and O2 sensor area..excessive "Harley" sounding idle, while check engine light flashes..when the car is cold, it fires up normal..after several minutes..it flashes the engine light..i get the rumble..I was told it was a clogged cat, by a service tech..i took off the cat and gutted it out completely..installed it back on..started it up..blows good, sounds good..however..it took a little longer for it to "stall" on me again with the harley sound, flashing CEL..,

Could this mean that the O2 sensors are bad and it is still causing the stalling???

Plz. help???!!! and information or questions will be appreciated!

 

I just fixed my car over the weekend and it's running perfectly fine I not better... I replaced the coils wires and plugs but didn't gut out my cat... It took me 10 minutes to change the parts and like two hours to get it started, it would crank but wouldnt start... I figured my engine was flooded, so after deflooding my engine I kept cranking and no luck so I kept the cycle going for about 2 hours (cranking, deflooding,cranking etc) ... Once It started it had a hard trouble staying on and that Harley sound was still there so I reved it up till it unclogged my cat and after a big cloud of white smoke and strong odor of gas the car idled perfectly.. Check engine light went away after a while of driving

 

I am having similar problem. Replaced wires, plugs, coils no avail. By any chance does your OBD II port work, cause mine doesnt. The only difference is I am boosting. I am currently chasing wire diagrams and schematics thanks to a buddy of mine that works at the dealer.

The OBD II port is numbered 1-16 from right to left with the upper row 9-16 and bottom row 1-8. As you look at it the pins would be
16 15 14 13 12 11 10 09
08 07 06 05 04 03 02 01

Pin 16 is the Batt+. Pin 14 is CAN L (G & Black wire). Pin 6 is CAN H (Blue & White wire)The trouble shooting table says that. Pins 5 & 4 are GRNDs.

1.With the ignition off you check the resistance between pins 14 and 6 you should read 60-62 ohms.
2.If you disconnect the Instrument Cluster or the PCM ( one at a time) and re-measure the resistance at pins 6 and 14. You'll see 120-123 ohms.
3.you can determine if the CAN circuit is complete to both the IC and the PCM. The resistance should match both times.


A. Loose or open connection at #1 CANL at TCM module (pin 14 on OBD II port) or any point between the module pin and main CANL circuit.
Cause
* Eng RPM lowers due to increase in AT line pressure
* Noticeable XMSN whine from increased line pressure.

B. Loose or open connection at #2 CANH or at any point between the module and the main CANH circuit.
Cause
* Eng RPM lowers due to increase in AT line pressure
* Noticeable XMSN whine from increased line pressure.

Here is the thing though, I have a MT and the procedure above is for a AT. (We didnt read the fine print when we found this). I got as far as step one after deciphering what the hell the book was talking about. I did get the 62 ohms in step one but it got late and taking the Instrument Cluster out after 12 hrs of troubleshooting was more than I could handle for today. My buddy does have some more schematics for me but I will get them tomorrow. Sorry I am not at home or I would have scanned the pages I am looking at. Hope this helps someone. If this leads me to a solution I will elaborate in greater detail with pics. For now I am going to bed

 

That sounds just like my 01 Sebring Convertible with 107,xxx miles after we fixed the water pump (after the car just died on me on a hot day in the middle lane of traffic [pushed into the gas station myself cuz im a boss]) anyways that lasted 300 something miles and i ran over 100 mph on the fwy blasting music, got off, and i got that same exact sound that you have. I guess this isn't really related, I just thought I would put in my 2 cents in because that sounded EXACTLY like it. Which led to my beautiful RX8 :D good luck to your 8

 

Spent all day chasing wires. ObdII magically works. After troubleshooting everything we got a hold of the compression tester from the dealership and found my rear rotor was done. Forward gave me 7s back housing gave me 0! Yes folks 0. Couldn't believe it so we switched leads and nozzles and second rotor was always 0. Rebuild starts next weekend!