Mazurfer

Just wondering as I'm about 1 1/2 hour south of you down just South of Cocoa Beach.

I've noticed that when my idle begins to dip at stop signs or lights, it's my throttle body. If I don't clean it, it will get to the point of stumbling and even stalling at lights without keeping the gas on it. I usually clean both the ESS and the throttle body, so not really sure which it is, but clears it up every time. I now make these both part of my preventative maintenance when doing oil change or whatever.
Yep, and check all those grounds as well.

It's worth a shot.

andrewhelmus

Thanks for the tip! I'm going to clean both tonight. If it helps then I will make that a part of my normal maintenance as well.

My grounds should all be good. I added a grounding kit earlier this year as well.. so if anything it's overkill!

RonniEdwards

iTrader: (1)

So i've grounded, i've cleaned the ess, tb, maf, all of it is very good and i have noticed improvements, but it hasnt completely made it go away. Still drops occasionally. Esp with the ac on.

Mazurfer

When you did the TB, did you open the butterfly valve and clean both inside and out as much as you could?
It's not real easy to hold open, but I always clean really good around the lip it sort of closes against.
I also try and clean the pivot points for that valve as well.

andrewhelmus

My throttle body was clean as a whistle.. didn't even bother with it! ESS is clean too.. I gave it a good wipe down anyways.

I did notice something that didn't seem right though.. Some of the vacuum lines might not be connected to the appropriate places. Perhaps someone could shed some light on this..

On the lower part of the intake manifold, where the two nipples are (for seafoam or de-carb access).. there is a vacuum hose that comes from each port that are connected to a T, and then run to the oil neck. I don't think that is correct..

You can see the T in the photo below... it's a yellowish color.





What do you guys think?

I thought the port on the oil filler neck was supposed to run to the intake.. ? And furthermore.. there are three ports on my intake, all of which are being used for other items.. (Injen CAI btw, installed by previous owner)



I did take a look at the popular color coded vacuum line diagram floating around here.. but none of my vacuum lines seem to be run according to the chart, so I'm confused :/

9krpmrx8

iTrader: (46)

You have the updated vacuum routing and it looks correct. It changed from 06-08. But the bigger question is what intake are you running, that could be your problem.

andrewhelmus

Yeah I just did a bit more searching and things started to look correct. Thanks for confirming!

The previous owner installed an Injen CAI.. maybe this is causing the issue. I'm sure it doesn't perform any better than the OEM intake anyways, if not worse.

I do really like the sound it makes, though.

9krpmrx8

iTrader: (46)

Check it.

https://www.rx8club.com/attachments/...-oil-gauge-pdf

9krpmrx8

iTrader: (46)

Yeah that intake is crap, get the stock on on there. Aftermarket intakes are known to cause an array of little glitches in idle, etc. Due to the fact that the MAF readings are off due to the aftermarket intakes inside pipe diameter being different from stock.

Mazurfer

Holy crap, that's a lot to go through to cure milky oil on the dipstick!
I know you were just using this to point out that he basically has this setup, but my god!

9krpmrx8

iTrader: (46)

Yeah but look how many new threads every winter are generated from this issue. I imagine the dealers were inundated with people freaking out over this,

RXperimentsz

Hey my 8 is making that tractor noise. Engine just got replaced at 135000 and now the cars at 157000 the reman engine only has 22k kms on it. and the spark plugs were changed with the reman engine. I started feeling powerloss above 7 rpm and then all of a sudden it stalled as I pulled up on my friends driveway. I tried starting it. It wouldn't start. I waited 5 mins and started it again. This time it took atleast 7-8 secs of cranking for it to start but it started making that tractor noise. It drove fine, till Iwas pulling into my street. The noise got louder with higer revs and started making a louder noise each time I let the revs come down. I checked the cels I got p0302 rear rotor misfire and p0171 system running too lean bank 1 and the p2076 (noticed cat was glowing so I gutted it out) so its not the MIAC sound. So p2076 is gonna stay I'm okay with that. I changed my coils yesterday and the noise went down a lot but its still making the tractor sound. So I checked the codes again and now the misfire and lean are both pending codes. I played around with my ssv and that's moving easily. The noise is there in idle and under load. Need help pls.!

Slidin8

Get a compression check, you may have a dead engine. The quality of remans is questionable

Phatty3dgar

I've been having the same issue with the iddle fluctuating and even the engine shutting off when the AC is turned on. I would like to know where and how you changed the O2 sensor? I just bought my RX8 a few months ago and still new to this site

RonniEdwards

iTrader: (1)

YOooo, so not cool. O2 sensor wasn't my issue. (i went with a premium bosch) yea i can tell a little cleaner idle and startup, but i'm still at the intermitten power under low RPM. And lean as F\_/( l<. Idle is at normal AFR. 14.7, left of the gas for shifting and spikes to 20.6

bhop

What do your fuel trims look like?

RonniEdwards

iTrader: (1)

This is in 3rd gear at a steady climb to 8k RPM

9krpmrx8

iTrader: (46)

Ronnie,

You are way lean, stay out of boost at all costs. You either have a vacuum leak (not a boost leak) or your tune is jacked or even more likely is that it is both.

MastrShake2129

Having a similar problem, when I have the clutch depressed and coming to a stop (with engine warmed up) will occasionally drop the rpm from like 800/900 to under 500, with completely stalling out like once or twice a week, (only really drive it to and from work 70m round trip). The most recent was in stop and go traffic on the highway. Everytime it stalls out the car starts right back up, no having to wait, and no excessive cranking needed. And if the car doesn't stall after coming to the stop, the idle corrects itself and sits at 800/900 again. Going to try cleaning the throttle body and MAF sensor, but this doesn't seem to be a guaranteed fix. Any other ideas before I start replacing wires, coils, (plugs were done about 30k miles ago). All of this has been with the AC on as its been 80+ in NJ the past few weeks.

It also seems to be more of a problem when the clutch pedal is depressed. Will try driving home today while breaking in neutral after I get the speed down, and see if that makes any difference.

2005, Manual 6spd, 125k miles. I did just replace the radiator, thanks to the plastic nipple on the old one connecting to the reservoir. Doubt that would affect much.

andrewhelmus

I'm looking into getting a new intake shortly.. I might just get an OEM one, but I was wondering if you had any input on either the Mazdaspeed or AEM one, if I were to go that route. From what I understand, these two are essentially the same, aside from the Mazdaspeed logo. Also they seem to be the best ones, if upgrading from OEM..

I really want to maintain the awesome growl I get from my current Injen junk intake, but not at the cost of rough idle, etc.

If it weren't for the fact that I'm getting married in March and have a wedding to save for, I'd probably just go all out and start planning a turbo build, but that will have to wait :P

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

https://www.rx8club.com/rx-8-discuss...rx-8-a-233937/

AEM and Mazdaspeed are identical. The MS one is just an AEM rebranded. It's a solid intake with proven gains (though still small gains).

The Racing Beat is the other one with proven gains, however the gains appear to be mostly from the duct that comes with the kit. A popular mod is to get just the duct and use that with the stock intake, since that is almost all of the gain still.

andrewhelmus

When's the last time you replaced the coils/plugs/wires?

Cleaning the MAF is a good place to start, since it's quick easy and cheap. You can pick up some contact cleaner from Walmart or local auto parts store for a couple bucks.. Just be careful not to damage the sensor.. they're fragile.

Check all your vacuum lines for leaks, too.

When you have the clutch in and this happens, are you in gear, or neutral?

andrewhelmus

Thanks for the input!

You know.. I read your Newbie Guide to Modding when I first joined this forum.. It's crazy how much information you gather over time and how much you easily forget. Time for a re-fresher - I'll be reading over it again!

andrewhelmus

That's a bummer man.. sorry to hear that. Keep me posted though on your progress in finding a solution.

Have you checked all of your vacuum lines?

MastrShake2129

Can't remember off hand when coils and wires were done, only did plugs on last change, 30kish miles ago. So ill go ahead and get them anyway.

I figured if it was a vacuum leak or coils though I'd have a problem just simply idling there would be misfires.

And it seems to happen just whenever the clutch pedal is depressed, whether in gear or not. I will still try to drive home without holding the clutch while stopping, and just keeping it in neutral til traffic picks up again.