I hear that this is caused by a bad soldered connection behind the **** anyone in the tacoma/fort lewis area willing to fix this for me I have a 90% full bottle of absolute vodka to give to whoever wants to help me with this.

 

Please help bump its getting cold in washington

 

hahahaha, this title is awesome. doesnt blow unless **** is jiggled. rofl.

i had this problem with the a/c. its the logic board. it needs to be replaced. i hope you are under warranty.

 

i'm having similiar problems. I got to hold down the **** all the way to the right for hot air to start blowing.
I do i replace the logic board?
hope it isn't expensive...

oh... and my warranty is up...dang it...

 

I was told it was a connection in the back need to be resoldered

 

Me and Big Ireland fixed this tonight cost me a bottle of absolute vodka but well worth it for heat for the winter and way better than $600 at the dealer plus I learned and knowledge is power lol

 

Those three barrels on that PCB are poorly soldered.
When I soldered one for a local RX8 I noticed less than 10% of the barrel was filled.
Solder fill for PTH should be no less then 75%.

 

When me and Ireland looked at them we didn't see any problem at first but there were very hard to see cracks on the outter edges of the barrels

 

exactly what he said lol

 

Hello Gentlemen,

I've had this issue 2 years ago. At the time i had no idea what it was and spended up sepending 300 on some parts, one of which was the temp control thingy. It worked fine for some time but now that is starting to get cold again the same issue is emerging once again.

Good thing i know what it is now. Just got to solder something. Here is a helful thread

 

this is excellent.
you are a gentleman for posting this.
i just need to find a friend who has a solder at home...

 

Your local auto parts store or radio shack should sell basic/cheap soldering irons for $5-$10.
Then just get a spool of rosin core solder, not acid core.

 

I'm getting this done tomorrow. Can't wait to get this heat problem fixed,.............i was freezing in there today.

When this happened to me originally it was febuary. The windows would fog up fairly quickly and then freeze up. I would have to drive with the windows wide open to keep temperature similar on both sides of the window to avoid condensation. It was a horror..........

 

^^ Jon actually fixed this on my car...

There is a diagnostic mode you can see what your temp is set at by holding the volume/power button at the same time as holding the scan up button... hold for 3 seconds and the display will say "AC TEMP" or something... its on a scale of 0-16.

0 = coldest 16 = hottest.

I had a small piece of paper jammed in the **** for months before Jon got around to fixing it for me (slacker)

Just put it in that diagnostic mode and remove the **** and jam something in there to complete the connection for a short term fix.

You don't need any new components and if if its fixed under warranty, I don't know if the new parts have the same solder issue or not.

 

Maybe that's because I was too busy working on everything outside your car.
Took awhile to final get to the issues inside the car.