DCS/TCS light issue here

Reset after removing battery works, light goes off.
Then start it up and after some minutes of running it comes on again, without even moving.

I guess this should rule out wheel sizes etc and will be something else.....

Problem solved.

MAF wired in, but not in the airflow was triggering check engine light and DCS/TCS light too.
After fitting MAF into turbo inlet duct, no more check engine light and no more DCS/TCS light.

That's a new one..................not having MAF in airflow triggered the DCS/TCS.......wow! :scratchhe

I still haven't fixed mine yet... kinda like it broken now, all I ever did was turn it off when I started the car anyway.

better to post here than make a new thread.

I rotated my tires & now my ABS light and Traction control light comes on within 10 seconds of driving.

I did the turn left & right reset. & also 20 brake pedal stomp.

once the lights shut off after doing this for a hour long car ride.
But on restart next morning the lights where back.

obviously its a computer issue & not faulty sensors because its off & on.

any suggestions?

Could be a few things...

Tires worn out unevenly
Could have damaged a wire going to the rear sensors
Dirt, may have found it's way on to the sensor, giving a false reading..
Battery weak/dieing.

If it's coming back on the next day that would suggest a wheel sensor or it wiring is damage. The car does a self check when you start it.
You can try resetting the abs computer by removing the underhood fuse for it for a few minutes, rather than disconnecting the battery.

Which I would like to add here, you DO need to reset the abs (by removing the fuse) after attempting to fix it.
When changing my rear camber arms I had damaged a sensor's wiring, disabling my abs. After getting a new senor, the abs would not work till I removed the fuse for a few minutes and put it back in.



On my own issues with DSC/TC not functioning...

I have been reading the manuals more and more, and one issue listed I do not see here is sticking brakes can cause problems. All my slider pins are frozen on my calipers, so in the coming weeks I will be replacing them and getting some new pads and see what happens.

Spray your sensors with contact cleaner

thanks for the input guys.
Fixed the issue.
My GF realized i had a break light out.
Replaced the bulb & now the problems gone.
There really should be a different indication light in the cluster for this
other than ABS & traction control.

Well....it did cause you to find a shorted and/or burned out bulb.

Which one was it? (See #9 in first post), if you tell me it was something else, then maybe I will change #9 to say any brake light out might cause it.

Thanks Mazurfer for this comprehensive list. Had the ABS and TCS/DCS lights lit together. Didn't even notice the rear stop lights were out also. It was simply the engine compartment STOP 15A fuse. Easy $0.60 fix!

This is causing me to rip my hair out...

2 days ago I've been having the exact same discribed problem. It all happened when I accidentally stalled the car and started it up after. The TCS/ABS lights BOTH come on the second I apply pressure to the brake peddle when the car is started. I've been trouble shooting for days- everything from engine fuse box, to cabin fuse box and to detaching the battery terminals and resetting the steering. NOW my lowbeams won't work and my brake lights won't illuminate when peddle is pressed..

Seriously, I don't know what else to do. I've been reading forms like mad and I'm officially lost...

^.........................how sure are you that you don't have a burned out buld back there?

excellent thread Mazufer, looks like I've got some trouble shooting to do soon.

Well.........if you find something other than listed, make sure you post it.
And, if you find it's something on the list, I'd like to know that as well.

sweet thanks for the post . turns out my 3rd brake light wires were cut/ shorted. repaired the wires and fuse and fixed my problem ;) thanks Mazurfer

Cool.......glad it helped out.
I never had the issue myself, but once IU saw all kinds of threads being made about it and no place where the info was all in one place, I decided I would at least attempt to put it all in one place.
never 100%, but I add possibilities to the first thread once a fix is confirmed.

Thank you Mazurfer.

In my case it was a shorted 3rd brake light wire - burning that 15A fuse. Fixed! zoom zoom

Another possible issue!
 

Great thread Mazurfer! I had the same issue with the ABS warning light and the TCS light (Car with skidmarks behind it) coming on as soon as I depressed the brake pedal. I should add that NONE of my brake lights were working while all other lights were, (including regular tail lights).

The short version of the problem is the wires leading to the 3rd brake light had snapped causing the tail light fuse to burn out.

The following is the long version but could help you locate, identify and solve the problem cheaply and quickly. (Remember the symptoms are: ABS and TCS lights coming on as soon as the brakes are applied, and brake lights failing to illuminate.)

Brake light fuse #21 (a 15A fuse) was burnt in the underhood box.

The cause was torn wiring to the 3rd brake light. My tear was located on the driver's side of the trunk, by the hinges.

(It's a rubber assembly that exits above the rear lamp casing and the black protective wire casing follows the contour of the trunk and connects to a SECOND rubber assembly that feeds the wire to the bulb under the trunk lid lining.)

The tear in the wire was caused by the black wire casing... it broke from being pinch down over the years as the trunk was closed over and over again. The wire cover split, yanking the wires until they broke.

This caused the fuse to blow. So a simple splice and solder, electric tape and some messing around with how the wires were fed to prevent pinching, then replacing the fuse (in that order). We solved the problem and the car had a spare fuse too!

Hope this helps!

DSC light on.

Had no ABS or DSC... problem was a 3rd brake light short.

Thanks for the insight.

So I bought my car a couple years ago, and have always had issues with the TCS/ABS lights. They are off when I first start the car, but if I turn the headlights on OR drive about 30 feet they both turn on and stay on. I have boost, oil pressure, and batt voltage gauges in my engine (installed by previous owner), led's in the parking lights, led map lights, and led dome light, as well as compustar remote starter.

Not sure if any of these are the cause, but I took it to the dealership to get checked out. they said it was the wiring harness and would be $2600 to replace. I'm having a hard time buying that.

dealership's diagnosis:

ISOLATED FAULT TO NO SPEED SIGNAL TO ABS MODULE FROM RIGHT FRONT WHEEL. FURHTER DIAGNOSIS FOUND BOTH SIGNAL WIRE AND GROUND WIRE FOR RIGHT FRONT SPEED SENSOR HARNESS ARE SHORTED TO BATTERY GROUND WITH HARNESS UNPLUGGED FROM ABS MODULE

I installed a new wire connector between the wheel speed sensor and wiring harness and it didn't fix the issue. Not sure where to go from here

wow! Thanks! you solved my issue. I was so confused and a little scared that I broke something. I remembered that this morning my car was fine and I got a little too "anxious" while driving to work. I kept thinking over and over what I may have done to trigger both sensors on at the same time. Well after getting home from work, my car was fine like it always was. I then proceeded to change out my bulbs to LED's and made sure they worked. So an hour or two later, I start the car and I freaked out when I saw both sensors stay on. Thank God i read your post because now I know what triggered it...the LED's....now I'm going to change them back out ��

Faulty switch
 

I had an ongoing issue for months with ABS, TSC and E-Brake warning lights all coming on randomly.

My OBD scan tool showed no fault codes.

First I tested the brake switch that appeared to be working correctly.

One of my tyres was a different tread pattern to the others so I replaced all four but it did not fix the issue.

I tested all the wheel speed sensors and even tested output signal with an oscilloscope and all functioned correctly.

I eventually went back to the brake switch and with the car running I started wiggling the switch and all 3 lights came on. My initial testing of the switch with a multimeter appeared fine as the slow meter response time did not show the intermittent break in continuity. Anyway I replaced the brake switch with a high quality switch from my local electronics store and now it's finally fixed.

My issue was number 16.
16.) Not likely, but the actual switch itself could be bad.

So here I am, 4 years and 2 months later. The DSC/TCS system finally works again. Been about 2 weeks now.
What was wrong? No F'ing clue.
Left work one day. Halfway home I realized the light wasn't flashing. So of course on the next turn I kicked the back tires out, stopped me instantly.
Since then I have driven the car down some of the roughest roads I know and nothing seems to bother it now.
:dunno:

New Fault
 

About a month ago I replaced my faulty brake switch and everything has been working great until about a week ago. After a few minutes of driving my ABS, TCS and Brake warning lights all came on together. This was occuring every day after a cold start and about 5 minutes of driving, if I turned the car off and restarted warm all 3 lights would come on after about 1 minute of driving.
First up I decided to test my rear ABS wheel speed sensors. I jacked the car and connected my oscilloscope to the driver side sensor and while rotating the wheel by hand watched the output waveform. It was showing an irregular waveform. I inspected the teeth on the ABS sensor rotor and found a small stone stuck in the teeth. I removed it and now I have a clean output waveform.
The stone must have had a high iron content to interfere with the sensor and I could pick it up with a strong rare earth magnet. Anyway removing the stone fixed my issue and everything is good again.
Although this may be a rare occurrence I would recommend inspecting the ABS sensor rotor teeth if someone has a similar issue.

possibly a wheel bearing/hub
 

This just happened to me as well. ABS, TCS, and park brake lights all came on after some moderately hard turns in the road. I was starting to feel vibrations from my front wheels, and came to the conclusion that my wheel bearings/hubs needed to be replaced. (I had felt the same sensation in an older car of mine, too) After talking to a mechanic friend, he said that the ABS and TCS lights should come on and detect when a wheel bearing needs replaced. Just confirmed my assumptions...
But I will add that the lights have not come back on after starting the car the next day... I might venture out to see if I can replicate it.
From what I've read on this thread, doesn't seem to be that high on the list of possibilities (or on it at all), but whatev.