Originally Posted by se3p_s (Post 4014792)

:confused::hey
2day i found my right front tire get buble so will it be any reson for abs light on anf off....

Originally Posted by Mazurfer (Post 4014825)

I can't say for sure, but it's possible. How much tread is left on this tire and the others?
Now.....if you decide to change that tire, take a good look at the other side as well. It would be best to change both at once to insure they have the same amount of wear and tread pattern.

Originally Posted by roadrash (Post 4097570)

DTC code C1222 (unspecified wheel speed error) was read.

So I got the car in for a very precise alignment, and had the wheel speed sensors checked, cleaned and the sensor area blown out with compressed air and reassembled.

On the track there were no electrical gremlins even when the car was pushed to the point of brake fade.

For now it seems to be much improved, but I wish I had a more definitive answer.

-DWF

Originally Posted by rxtreme89 (Post 4148307)

Awesome and very helpful thread. This just fixed my abs problem lol.

Originally Posted by 1.3_LittersOfFurry (Post 4148454)

I have a question about #4.

So my dsc/tcs went out about 2weeks ago. I've been going through the list trying to fix it.

Saturday night my brake lights turn them selves on. After figuring out you can't adjust the switch's height I ordered a new one. Well today I NEEDED to use my car so I bent the bracket down a little and now the lights are working properly. The part came in today, I plan on putting it on when I get off. Do I need to reset everything? (disconnect battery) To be sure or not if this was the problem? I already tried dsc reset when I got the lights to work properly, but no luck.

I just don't wanna lose my fuel trims again if I don't have to.

Thanks in advance.
-Shawn

Originally Posted by Mazurfer (Post 3672834)

Now some questions:

Are you using the right size tires and all the same size, brand, and tread pattern? Yes.

Is one tire really worn more than the others? No
Even a small difference in one(or in the tire pressure) can actually lead to this...............but not really all that common. All at 32psi

If either of the above are true(especially the first one).....it can cause these lights!



Some possibilities and checks:

In no particular order(right now).

1.) Make sure none of the wires leading to the sensors have been compromised. Also check the connectors for good secure contact/connection. Have seen many times where due to road debris or when changing out suspension parts that wires have been cut by accident, sensors damaged, or connectors unplugged. Checked

2.) It can always be the sensor itself, just take off the wheels and make sure the sensor is snug, have someone watch your dashboard while you fiddle around with it, if it happens to be loose on a particular side the light on the dash should go away. The sensor is on each hub and is connected with a singular black wire that runs from the body to the sensor(behind the rotor). Checked

3.) You can do a RESISTANCE CHECK by: Disconnecting the sensors and checking with an ohmmeter for 0.79 - 2.2k ohms resistance.

4.) Brake light switch could be sticking on the brake pedal. I read where someone replaced it after doing #3 above as he read 4.4 - 4.7ohms at one of the sensors. Replaced

5.) Under the hood in the fuse box in location #7 is the ABS/DCS fuse. It's a 60A and you should check this! Checked

6.) You also need to check #13 a 30A in that same engine bay fuse box. Checked

7.) In the cabin fusebox(by drivers foot), check #10 which is a 7.5A Checked

8.) Alignment can cause this issue believe it or not.

9.) A burned out third brake light. Of all things! Checked

10.) Unfortunately I read that the damn PS connectors being dirty can cause this as well. WTF? Cleaned

11.) Oh…I know one………you didn’t stick an LED in the third brake light position did you? That can cause it! I went through that one myself! Some people don't need a load resistor and some do, the value I've seen recommended is........a 2 watt 150 Ohm wire wound resistor. There are some DIY's on how to put it in if you need to do so. Easy to tell, take out the LED and replace with normal bulb and see if issue goes away! Nope

12.) Get your alternator checked out and make sure it’s not over-charging as this can fry the module. Checked

13.) Keep in mind if the center position of the steering deviates, the DSC may also not operate correctly because there is a sensor in the steering which detects driving conditions. (See reset above, but you might want to check the connector) Not checked, but no power steering issues.

14.) Cut or shorted third brake power wire. Checked

15.) Switch itself could be bad. Checked to the best of my ability

Originally Posted by Mazurfer (Post 4149182)

Shawn -

I wouldn't think you would have to do any more than the reset as outlined in the first post when changing out the brake pedal switch. No need for battery disconnect or any reset that might reset the fuel trims(brake stomp).

I am confused however............are you saying that after you bent the bracket down with the old switch on it, brake lights began to work, and you tried the reset as written in post one at that time and it didn't make a difference to the DCS/TCS light?

With how fickle this car is with wiring and/or resistances, I could make a case where if the old switch didn't have the right resistance the car may not like it(DCS/TCS), but the brake lights could still work.

Dave