I've read many threads and can't find my exact problem. So I started with this thread and checked things off
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tec...t-here-222280/

Problem: Hard starts, Harder starts in the warmer ambient weather (70-80°F). Barely started a couple of times in the last few weeks. Idles rough for 30 to 60 seconds at 200-500 rpm, with a fair amount of smoke. Then things are ok. Check battery light goes on and off while driving. Loss of power and acceleration whenever the light is on. Runs well otherwise. Sweet smell to exhaust so it is rich. Slight whining from a belt occasionally but not worn.

Previous possible related issue: Heard a POP sound when starting a few weeks before with a lot of smoke. Had misfires and a cat O2 error code. Took the cat off and the first portion was cracked. So I gutted the cat and it seemed to run ok for a few days.

Background: 2005 Grand Touring Manual Trans 130,000 miles

Checked:
Battery - replaced in December 2010, I've checked 12.5 V when off. Put a full charge on it, but battery light comes on (autozone checked and says it is good)
Alternator - I've checked 13.97 V when on, stays there when headlights and heater are on (autozone checked and says it is good, but I've read here you need 14.2-14.4 V)
Plugs - replaced 8000 miles ago
Coils and wires - replaced 4000 miles ago
Oil - changed regularly every 5000 miles
Antifreeze - never replaced until just recently with a 70% mixture, but never overheats
MAF - Cleaned recently but not regularly
ESS - Cleaned recently but not regularly
NVRAM - never reset

Not checked:
Fuel Pump
Starter
Compression (local mazda dealership wants $190. I've read it shouldn't be more than 1/2 hour labor, so I don't want to take it to them)

Thank you for any and all support. I've tried to do my research and I've done as much as I can before the big money items.

 

What is the CCA rating on the battery and did Autozone LOAD TEST it?

That's a bit low, adjust the alternator belt, that should help,

 

Thanks for the reply.

The battery is 750 ca / 600 cca. Autozone did test it under load, but I called them back today to confirm and the guy said he would get a second opinion.

I increased the tension on the alternator and it didn't help, but maybe stopped the squeak.

 

Battery light means alternator, get it checked on a bench.

 

I agree with 9k. When you have your alternator tested at autozone. If everything checks out but it says Diode N/A. Get a new alternator, it means the diode is shot. For some reason the machine's they use to test them can't just tell the diode is done, it will just show up as N/A.

 

Yeah and ideally I would take to an alternator shop not Stunnazone. FYI, I had an issue where my alternator was acting up years ago and it actually over charged, blew up my battery, ruined my ABS module, all the interior lights, the tail lights, etc. to the tune of about $2700.00. The dealer told me it was the battery (battery light was on, steering was acting crazy, etc) I replaced it and it happened again and that was when most of the damage was done.

Luckily I did not end up paying for the fix, I had a an extended warranty and I let them deal with the misdiagnosis by the dealer. When it happened the second time (5 minutes after leaving Mazda) I had the car towed and pulled the alternator and battery myself and had them both tested at and alternator shop and the shop told me in five minutes that the alternator was overcharging.

 

I was only trying to give him a location i know wouldn't be to far for anyone. Not every city/town has a shop with those capabilities. Figured advance or autozone is everywhere.