front brake caliper problem
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front brake caliper problem
I'm in the process of replacing my brake rotors. When I disassembled the front drivers side caliper I noticed that the piston bolt in the caliper bracket rusted and sized. No way I can get it out. Attached is a illustration. Bolt "C" sized in the bracket "item 8" Can I put it back together and continue driving with this? Any help appreciated.
Last edited by Macius8; 08-30-2008 at 09:59 PM.
#2
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That's the slider ....caliper won't work with that seized. Should be able to clean with emery or steel wool, lube with high temp silicone grease and it should work.
If it's sliding....OK and the retaining bolt is just stuck...put some penetrating oil on it and leave it for a few days. you can change the pads with removing only one bolt
If it's sliding....OK and the retaining bolt is just stuck...put some penetrating oil on it and leave it for a few days. you can change the pads with removing only one bolt
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Got the pin with the rubber thing at the end from the dealership for only 9 bucks. With the rubber boot and overnight shipping it only came out to be 25 bucks. Not to bad I think.
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Ok, I'm having the same problem, but I cannot get that stupid bolt to slide out. One is still sliding fine, but the one one is stuck in there like its welded. Any suggestions?
Rotors and pads look fine, but I just bedded some rotors so the high heat prob didn't do it any favors.
Rotors and pads look fine, but I just bedded some rotors so the high heat prob didn't do it any favors.
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Its not the caliper, its the "frame" that the caliper bolts to.
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I manage to take it out but destroyed the bolt in the process. I think its less than ten bucks at the dealership. Soak it in pb blaster and just try to pry it out. Worked for me after a few hours of struggling
#18
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You should be able to free it from seizing by first rotating the bolt (using slip joint long handled piliers, aka water pumps) and then pull it out. Clean with emory cloth or steel wool and then apply high temp copper grease and re-insert.
Case in point for never letting your calipers get to that state in the first place (preventive maintenance).
Case in point for never letting your calipers get to that state in the first place (preventive maintenance).
Ok, I'm having the same problem, but I cannot get that stupid bolt to slide out. One is still sliding fine, but the one one is stuck in there like its welded. Any suggestions?
Rotors and pads look fine, but I just bedded some rotors so the high heat prob didn't do it any favors.
Rotors and pads look fine, but I just bedded some rotors so the high heat prob didn't do it any favors.
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You should be able to free it from seizing by first rotating the bolt (using slip joint long handled piliers, aka water pumps) and then pull it out. Clean with emory cloth or steel wool and then apply high temp copper grease and re-insert.
Case in point for never letting your calipers get to that state in the first place (preventive maintenance).
Case in point for never letting your calipers get to that state in the first place (preventive maintenance).
#20
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Its the slide the caliper moves on...the two that I have tried to fix never did come loose...even after heating them up with a MAP torch until they were cherry red and beating on them with a hammer....
Talk to Patrick or Mazmart and get a used one.....not worth the work
I think the frame is the same on both sides?
#22
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If you do that you won't have problems.
If you use your brakes around town..you will likely be OK...but if you cook them at the track like I do...the rubber boots crack and break...and need to be replaced. Just like a lot of other parts that weren't designed to be used/abused like that
#24
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Most vehicle manufacturers mandate 15K miles Brake system checks and lubrication. Most people that do there own maintenance tend to forget about the brakes till something fails to work correctly. You should check/lube the slides AT LEAST every time you change the pads
My point was...it you use the vehicle for uses other than intended IE: track days etc....you need to be more aware of the stresses you put on the vehicle by doing so.
My point was...it you use the vehicle for uses other than intended IE: track days etc....you need to be more aware of the stresses you put on the vehicle by doing so.