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Free brake pads

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Old 11-15-2004, 06:49 AM
  #26  
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i did....i just told them they were squeaking and i had tons of dust,,,,,then they changed them free of charge
Old 11-15-2004, 07:07 AM
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why dont you do brake tests mark up a empty parking lot with tape measure speed at 30 mph then brake and count how many feet it takes
then get the brakes changed.
and do it again 10 bux stock brakes are better.
Old 11-15-2004, 08:43 AM
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The whole point of the new pads is to eliminate the squeaking plus they reduce the brake dust a ton. So what if the stock ones are alittle better...I dont enter a whole lot of braking competitions. If im going to take the car out to a track and do some real driving I switch the stock pads out anyway. For street use the new pads are fine.
Old 11-15-2004, 09:57 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by magixpuma
why dont you do brake tests mark up a empty parking lot with tape measure speed at 30 mph then brake and count how many feet it takes
then get the brakes changed.
and do it again 10 bux stock brakes are better.

$100 says that they'd be exactly the same (within the precision of the test). First of all, 30 mph is too slow to gauge anything. Even a 70 - 0 test would yeild the same results. Both pads will be aggressive enough to engage the ABS. If they're able to lock the wheels, that's all the braking that you can use. I don't care if you put a 14 inch cross drilled, vented, slotted, cryogenically frozen ceramic rotor with 8 piston calipers and the best racing pads and fluid you can get on there. You're not going to significantly reduce your 70-0 stopping distance. The only gains (which are important in racing) that you're going to get are in heat dissipation and resistance to fade. If your brakes have the capability to lock your wheels, then they're not the weak link. Then next in line is the tires. So, you go to racing rubber and then you can start decreasing your stopping distances. If your tires are sticky enough that your brakes can no longer lock the wheels, then you can talk about an upgrade.
Old 11-15-2004, 10:09 AM
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For those of you who are waiting to get the current squealing brake pads to worn out.. don't. go and get replaced. I had mine sqealing all the time then it started to sound less frequent. Now. I don't hear it most of the time and they wouldn't change the pads without duplicating the sound.
Old 11-15-2004, 10:17 AM
  #31  
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Painting your hubs isn't going to prevent you from getting the new pads. My dealership is **** about work and had no issue with my hubs/calipers being painted.

The new pads feel the same as the old pads, but no squeeking, and so far less dust as well.

I say go for it!

If your car is new and doesn't squeek yet, I'd recommend holding off on switching until they start squeeking. No sense in replacing them when they don't need to be (plus you'll get new pads after the old ones are worn down some)
Old 11-15-2004, 03:10 PM
  #32  
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The TSB has fine print at the bottom that advises the dealer that rotor machining will not be covered.

My rotors have noticeable wear....you can see it just at the very edge of the rotor. There is a small "lip" where the pad has not worn away the rotor material.

The origianl pad was very hard on the rotors. Speed Racer's original rotors were worn beyond the point of being resurfaced. This was all from the stock pads. He had to get new rotors.

I would bet all of us in the 15K miles+ club will have significant rotor wear.

My dealer has my new pads in now, i'm unsure if I like the idea of putting brand new pads on rotors with wear on them. It just seems to make more sense to resurface or replace the rotor which the dealer will not do under this TSB.
Old 11-15-2004, 03:32 PM
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That’s what MAZDA gets I complained ABOUT THAT brake noise like 1 000 000 Times and they say no their is nothing now I can go over their and slap them around LOL
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