patriotjj

Thanks for all the replies and info ONCE again, will give yall update on next cold start.

patriotjj

Ill never know what the problem was lol, i show up to mazda, after i told them they can put the coil in and lets see if it some how magically is that, cus i never read about it after a good two hours of research. Once i arrive they just told me they were really sorry, no diagnostic fee, coil, or anything, just tell me if there is ANY problems dont hesitate to go back. I asked what the problem was, and they said it was our fault, nothing to worry about. Sooo, im curious to what could cause flashing CEL on cold start, that isnt ignition related perhaps, or coolant on plugs or something. Ill see what happens in the AM though, car ran beautiful, idle perfect so far. Well not 100% but i do have that vac leak, but so far so good.

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

Then I bet that they either A) forgot to reset the ESS, or B) crossed up a single injector connector.

Both are incredibly common on engine replacements. MAYBE forgot a grounding point.


At least they owned up to it being their fault and didn't stick you with a bogus bill.

patriotjj

Wish I knew as much as about the 8 as you -.- makes no sense how you know everything lol. But hey just curious, yeah how many injector wires and stuff are there? Cus i know they messed up on injector wiring the first time(stalling).

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

6 injectors, each with it's own harness connector.

Frankly, I'm not sure how any of those would only be a problem on cold start, but those are rather common and I can see a dealer being embarassed about it.




I've just been watching the live posts feed pretty much daily for 7 years. Most of it just embeds itself in my head, what's common, what's not, etc...

patriotjj

Ah okay okay i was thinking a lot more than that??? And yeah.. First time, AND second time something happens.. :/ i knew it wasnt the dam coils, as you pretty much did too. As long as this issue is solved, praying no flashing CEL tomorrow morning -.-, next on list is to replace coolant system as i go along.
Dude i honestly feel like your the creator of the rx8 lmao

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

Hardly.

patriotjj

Just went a good 4-5 days no misfires, even on days the car sat way longer than today. So on about a 16-18 hour sit before starting, Flashing CEL AGAIN! Im out of ideas. New engine, whole fresh ignition system. No coolant leaks. Idk, only problem is rougher idle when car is warmed up.
Yeah Idle is extra spuddery on idle when warm, i really doubt a vacuum leak is causing the misfire but i got code p0411 still.

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

Did you pull the plugs to check for coolant on them after sitting a long time?

patriotjj

I did after it sat for about 11ish hours and nothing? I do notice a coolant smell after i drive it.. But they might have spilled some during the Reman, and i know for a fact i spilled some about 3-4 weeks ago. I been checking the level everyday and its the same. What could this possibly be? The Cat? They messed up again? My mind is going nuts
Whats weird is it hasnt misfired until today, and each day it sat for atleast 12 hours.

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

If you are actively smelling coolant when you drive, that isn't a "spilled some 3-4 weeks ago" deal.

There wasn't even a significant smell of coolant in my garage with an open drain pain of 1gal of coolant sitting under my beater for 3 days while I tried to figure out the right thermostat (last week).

Get your cooling system pressure tested.

I have several theories, but they aren't really things that you can clearly link together. This problem will be either really bizzare, or really stupid

patriotjj

Im off tomorrow and wednesday, Im going to take them up on their word "if you have ANY problems dont hesitate to come back".. So im going to drop it off again.. And ask if they can pressure test it for me while their at it... Yeah, the coolant smell should be gone by now, i spilled about idk, a good decent amount like a cups worth -.- but still..
Because that idle is NOTICABLY spuddery when warm even when they gave it back.
Also whats dumb, is I never had a single misfire before the new Reman also. Not one

patriotjj

Okay, I dont know if anyone has been following my story over in "series 1 troubleshooting-Flashing CEL Rattle in cabin", but i have some dumb questions so this is why its being posted here. Long story short, I'm getting misfires during a "cold" startup only, car runs fine, with a spuddery idle though. Actually marked my coolant bottle with perm. Marker when I got my new Reman 2 weeks ago. I am getting a coolant smell after driving, the level has actually dropped now what it seems a half an inch from 2 weeks ago? Now my questions, does the coolant level fluctuate, i know it expands when Hot is why i made two marks, one when the engine is cold and one when hot. Difference is about half an inch gone now. If it turns out to be a leak, if its getting into the spark plug holes, is this fixable by replacing parts? Or is my engine done for, because a seal failure? Thanks.

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

Take it back to the dealer....get them to pressure test the cooling system

It's likely going to fail.....

patriotjj

Checked the coolant level this morning and its back at the mark i marked.. Took it in anyways and told them i have the same problem, and specifically told the guy about me smelling coolant and I believe the coolant could be getting on the plugs. He said hes going to check over everything, hopefully he got the hint on the pressure test, if not ill jus go to this shop down my street does them for 20 bucks.
If it were to fail a pressure test? What is the next course of action?

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

another engine if it is leaking coolant seals.....

patriotjj

Holy crap,does leaking seals get covered under warranty, or the only way for another engine is through compression test?

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

The Mazda warranty doesn't specify a required reason of failure for warranty coverage. Failed is failed. Failing a compression test is just usually the method used. A failed coolant seal can be detected a variety of ways, and does still count as an engine failure.

Coolant seal failures on new remans are the most common form of early reman failure. Usually in the 5,000-10,000 mile range after the cooling system becomes clogged with excess sealant, but it could happen really fast too.

Merging your threads, this doesn't need to be in a separate one.

patriotjj

Okay thanks i appreciate it. Just wondering if its leaking very little, would that be counted as a failure? Or does it have to get worse, sorry for dumb questions but im jus so bummed

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

A failed coolant seal is a failed coolant seal. There isn't a matter of degrees.

patriotjj

Okay, will update yall when they call here later today or tomorrow. If it is that, as long as it can get covered then im not going to be to upset about it. Thanks

patriotjj

Quick question-So they called, and the guy had about an hourish to work on it today and they called to see if i needed a car to drive and what not sounding like it could take a while. Just curious if it is a coolant seal leak, to properyly 100% diagnose, do you have to pretty much take the engine apart, which is why they might be taking a while?

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

They will need to pressure test it and confirm that there is coolant in the combustion chamber...then they will have to order a new engine and re-install it. Hopefully with someone that labels the injector clips and other stuff so they get it back together first try

Otherwise nthey will have to **** with it to try and figure out what is going on...could take a few days...to weeks

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

No, you can diagnose a coolant seal leak in a number of ways, ways that frankly I wouldn't have bothered giving the car to a dealer to find. I'd find it myself, then take it to them with proof and/or tell them specifically what to test. I don't trust them to find a nebulous problem you aren't defining for them.

You can confirm a coolant seal failure if any one of the following is true:
If if fails a coolant pressure test AND you know that every other part of the cooling system is fine
If you have an oil sample sent to Blackstone Labs and their analysis finds coolant in the oil
If you find coolant on the plugs under any condition, best tested for with the engine sitting after a long period, a brief no-fuel crank, then pull the plugs
If you have the coolant tested for combustion gasses and it returns positive

It is technically still possible for you to pass each of these tests at a given point in time and still have a seal failure, but it won't perpetually pass them all. Eventually one of the tests will fail.

patriotjj

Thanks again for the replies. Yeah going to wait and see what they say. Reguardless if they say its not a coolant leak, i will either ask them right there to pressure test or take it to get one ASAP. Because misfire on cold starts after sitting, coolant smell with rough idle when warm from what I've been reading and what yall say, sounds like a internal coolant leak to me.
Also curious, if there was a problem with for example, radiator, or coolant bottle, or hoses.. Could that happen to leak into the chamber causing this, or can that only happen by it being a seal.