josh95mx

iTrader: (5)

long story short, the oil did the trick. pumped some oil into the intake ports 30cc's and it wouldn't go. then it lost compression and i did it again. and she started, holly crap the smoke that filled the parking garage, the people in my condo NOT HAPPY i can tell you. But she is up and running. new plugs wires and coils and it starts like a dream now.

robertsrx8

At first it took a couples of secods to start the car now it would not start at all even when cranking it for a couple of seconds. At first i thought it eas the sparkglugs so i replaced it . Srill the same. Then i checked the cgarge of the battery it still wasnt it. What could be the probl? Is it flooded and how do i fix that? Any help
would be appreciated .

rx8kush

hard start most likey is a low compression problem and you get a free new engine for that ..... i have heard that an upgraded starter for the rx8 does the trick... mayb taking your car to your local shop is the best thing to do

flippin360

Is flooding an issue on newer rx-8 models say 2007 & up? or is it just the earlier models like '04 & '05?

msrecant

The answer is yes, it is an issue for all RX-8s.

While 2006 and later models have all the improvements (retrofitted to 2004/2005s) for dealing with flooding, the basic issue of shutting down the engine before it has warmed up still has a flooding risk.

The 2010 owners manual carries the warning:

Short Trip Driving: In order to improve engine starting performance on restart, DO NOT turn off a cold engine until one or more of the variable red zones in tachometer have turned off. Warm the engine until the first indicator of the variable red zone goes off.

I believe the term "improve engine starting performance" is a euphemism for "flooding".

rbasurto

Hello all.. I have a 2006 rx-8 sport. Black on black...VERY NICE. i have 90112 miles on it and i bought it when it had 10000. No problems up to now. When i start it i get a cloud of white smoke. It eventually goes away but when i am idle the engine stutters. if i let it idle too long it dies. I recently has it looked at and according to the computer it reads a misfire. The only things that i have not done is a fuel injection cleaning and changed out the spark-plug wires.
I did its recent oil change last week and this kinda just appeared. any idea?

Specialpowers

I recently left my RX8 standing in secure parking for a month or so. When I returned to it, the battery was dead. I called recovery to jump it, and we discovered that it was also flooded. The following day, I restarted it using this method.

1. Hooked it up to a friends car with jump leads.
2. Turned it over without accelerator depressed (for a few secs)
3. Turned it over it with accelerator fully depressed (for a few secs)

I alternated steps 2 & 3 for about 10 minutes with the fuel pump fuse removed, and then for another half an hour with the fuse back in place, before it finally spluttered into life in a cloud of white smoke.

LiLQbn

I have a 2008 Mazda GrandTouring. I baby the hell out of my car. Shes my baby girl!

Last night (1am) after putting in gas she wouldn't start up again! "GREAT!!!" I thought "Not Again" I had to push her back to my house with help from my amazing friends.

I woke up this morning thinking I had to call the dealership to get her towed, when all of a sudden...."ZOOM ZOOM" she cracked right up. A little slower than the usual but she started.

Now MY QUESTION!!!!!

Now whats the best way to burn out w/e little gas is in the engine? I have my car right now sitting in my driveway just running. I figured i would just leave it out there for the next 20min just running. Now is this a good way to vaporize w/e gas is in there, or im i just wasting my time.

What would be the best alternative is recommended when i think it might be flooding aside from taking it to the dealership.

Thank you. I greatly appreciate the feedback

rhjames

I suggest you just take for a short drive. When it's up to temperature, give it a few good bursts (eg 10 seconds each) at over 6,000 RPM. If you only do short trips, you need an occasional long run. As for being your "baby girl", forget it. These cars want to be treated like a wild woman. It likes to run at high revs, and pushed a bit. You don't do it any favours if you travel at 50kph in 6th gear.

LiLQbn

Thank you James, I appreciate the feedback.

1.3L

Well, add me to the list of those having experienced a truly flooded engine. After five and one half years, it finally happened. And, it was my fault. I've been tempting fate for years.

Last Saturday, I pulled my 8 out of the garage to wash it. After the wash, I pulled it back into the garage - no warm up what-so-ever. The car sat until Monday morning. Jumped in to go to work and between the cold shut down on Saturday and the 5.5 year old somewhat weak battery, it flooded. And I mean, it flooded big-time. I could see and smell fumes at the tail-pipes.

It took me almost 6 hours to get the thing running again. Here's what I did:

Got out my nearly-new, well maintained (charged) RV battery (yeah, I know RV batteries are not the best choice for starting cars) and my jumper cables. Next, I pulled the fuel pump fuse. I limited cranking time to 2 minutes every 30 to 45 minutes. When I could no longer smell strong fumes at the tail pipe, I plugged the fuse back in. The engine cranked for about 3 seconds, hit, and then went back to that dreadful cranking. So, I pulled the fuse again and did the cranking procedure a few more times until the exhaust smelled fairly clean. Put the fuse back in again and viola, it hit after a couple of seconds and ran great.

I took the car for a 30 minute drive and also hit the engine redline a few times. Runs fine now. Lesson learned.

Oh yeah, I put my battery charger on the RV battery during the 30 to 45 minute intervals between cranking.

Man, I don't want to do this again!

-1.3L

Kingtoy02

Hello,
Im new to the site and relatively new to being a rotory owner. Had I known it would be such an issue.. I woulda considered getting something else instead. At first I figured my flooding problems were much the same as anyone elses... However I did a compression test while priming the engine w oil, (90psi front, 75psi rear).. Assuming I did the test correctly. I did disable fuel by flooring gas peddle opening throttle to trigger fuel cut. After cleaning (newer) plugs (recently replaced from previous flood) I started the engine. With a roar it stumbled to life for a moment only to stall again w a puff of smoke. Removing the plugs rear plug had typical light fuel coverage... Pulling the front Leading plug, the socket began draining a fuel/oil like black liquid. The engine was fired again and again to see the same result. It seems like maybe I have a leaking injector? I'm also throwing a code for a (small) evac leak.. I know what your thinking,, system compensating for air leak causing flooding condition.. Ok but why is it only one port seems to be affected.. and wouldnt it take a larger leak 2 cause such a diverse effect? A friend also mentioned fuel pressure regulator.. Ok but if that was the problem once again.. that would affect all injectors.. I'm at a loss.. This car seemed cherry,, a good price w low miles.. Seems like if my compression test was accurate (may not be) then it was too good to be true... I'm thinking about just checking the injectors myself but beyond an ohm test I'm not sure how to asses if its leaking or not. Any help would be great, and seeing as how problematic these great engines are I'll probably be very involved w the forums 2 avoid cutting my losses w a for sale sign after pushing it to the end of the driveway.......

swiftnet

How often does the car flood? I had a couple of instances of flooding early on, but it hasn't happened in 3 or 4 years. Always rev the engine to 3~4K, and shut it off while the rev's are dropping. I've never had a flooding instance since I started this procedure. The stock coils are prone to failure, usually around 35~60K. If they are weak you may have problems starting the car, or for that matter keeping it running. A leaking injector would be a fluke, not saying impossible but not a common problem. The code for evac leak is pretty common, that is the damned sensor more often than not. Seems to be a Mazda problem because our 3 (35K) is due for a second replacement sensor, my 8 (82K) has had two so far and needs a third.

Kingtoy02

I see, I see.. My concern is the abundence of fuel comming out the first bank, as the second one appears to only be damp w fuel. Did your 8 do the same thing? Id understand both ports doing the same thing, so I can't make sense of what is happening. What sensor should I replace specifically on the evap system? Dang... I should really give forums a thorough look on the car I want before I buy.. These cars are way to problematic.. I don't have time for this crap.

swiftnet

I'm no expert on the rotary, I'm just a satisfied customer.
I wouldn't consider my 8 problematic. The car is unique, but once you are aware of the idiosyncrasies it is as reliable as any other car, imo. The evap sensor is somewhere under the rear window in front of the trunk If I remember correctly. A shop manual would help you find it. A bad gas cap (or a loose gas cap) will throw the same code. These sensors suck, I'm on my second in my Nissan Xterra, and my son's Honda Civic is so sensitive to the gas cap that it throws the code at least once a month. Maybe it is a Florida thing...

I can't tell you why so much fuel is pouring out of your second bank, I'm not even sure what you mean by bank! Do you mean the second rotor housing?

Kingtoy02

Yeah the second rotor housing.. I don't know what "bank" it would be but its the forward chamber. I"d like to find a shop manual, in fact I probably need one.. Figured out a possible way to check for leaking injectors, I just need to find out if the fuel rail stays pressurized when engine is off. The fuel rail might have a bung to hook up a fuel gauge.. So hopefully I can check that without taking off the entire upper intake. I hope your right about the rx8's. Don't get me wrong, i've been very impressed with the car but simple issues like this is something mazda needed to address. Seems like a shop manual a necessity so I'll see what I can do on that.
Thanks for the help.

Kingtoy02

Sweet.. don't know what was different about today.... Cleaned the plugs, oiled combustion chambers, cycled, and she fired right up.. All seems well even though I did subscribe to alldata.. Who knows.. maybe I'll need it in the future....

rexilia

Can someone help me please. My engine flooded I started it to move into the garage then quickly shut it off. Next day heading to school engine wont fire. Tried the flood procedure didnt work so went ahead and did a pull. Now im not sure if its in my head but the car seems abit slower...

Question is, If i left my car with a flooded engine for a day is that bad for my sparkplugs?
2nd question if I keep driving it with faughty plugs is it bad for the car or will it cure the plugs?
3rd question is How do i know if My plugs have gotten bad? does it idle higher or lower?

Kosova

Hi
I had the same problem... my big boots pressed the gas peddal a couple of times and it wouldnt start that day .. the next day it did .. lots of smoke kame out the muffler.. and it also seemed that it was slower than before... but after a couple of days of driving it came back to normal... Im guessing untill it burned out what ever was left in it...

2: if your sparkplugs aren't working well you will notice because they wont fire properly... and you will notice this when you give it gas it wont pull and you will feel the jump when it does...

I would say keep driving for a couple of days before going to the shop and wasting hundreds on chekc ups .. AND really really avoid giving it too much gas.... just in case your sparks aren't working ..and if the sparks dont fire.. you will flood the engine ....

CONCLUSION: go steady for 3 to 4 days

Hope it works out for you buddy

Huey52

iTrader: (2)

^... also keep in mind that the ECU needs to relearn fuel trims regardless of how they were affected. Performance may be off until this is accomplished, post a few cycles.

gusmahler

Only ever lived in NorCal and Arizona. Flooded the engine several times. And as the car ages, it seems that the engine temperature means less. Here's how the current flood happened: my wife drove the car from work to home. About a 15 minute drive in 95+ degree weather. She changed her clothes and then drove to a friends house about a mile away. Normally, a mile drive would not flood the car, even cold. Especially in 95 degree weather. Even moreso when the car was just driven for 15 minutes. Still flooded, though.

rexilia

Its weird my engine loses power for .2 of a second at 7rpm then spins back normally again up to 9.5rpm. This is the ECU?

JIM BATTY

I have a 2009 RX8 with 27,000 miles and is an automatic. In may the check engine light came on after it started. I drove to work and when I started it to go to lunch, it was still coming on. I took it to the New Orleans Mazda dealer and they kept it overnight. They told me the code was for the intake and they got updates from Mazda and reflashed the computer. They could not say what the code meant. After that, it started taking longer to start and when it started, it stumbled like it had a fouled plug. I took it back and they said that it is normal on these engines. I told him he was nuts and that it never acted like that before. Well, I installed a higher cranking amp battery because the old one did not turn it over like I thought it should. This month, the check engine light came on again and I took it to the Hammond, La Mazda dealer. He checked it and said that I have a fuel injector leaking by causing the engine to slightly flood and stumble on startup. I set up an appointment and took it home. Before I shut the engine off I decided to pull the fuel pump fuse and let the engine die, I then turned the key off and put the fuse back in. I started the car up and this time the car started right away like it used to. They pulled and replaced both leaking injectors and it's back to normal. It pays to find a good mechanic. Anyone looking for a red 2009 rx8 automatic with 28,000 miles on it. I think 27000 miles is a little soon to have a problem like this. I'm going to my toyota dealer this week.

rhjames

Why would you want a Toyota dealer?

I've had my RX8 for about 6 years. I've had two starting problems, but not since I never turned it off before it was warm, and hit 6,000 RPM. Otherwise, zero problems. Any new car can have a problem - it's a matter of luck. Leaky fuel injector could have been caused by dirt in the petrol - who knows.

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

And since a single vehicle is the entirety of an automaker's reputation and quality measure, I might be able to track down my 2002 Corolla, which blew it's engine from internal oil sprayers failing, perhaps you would be interested in that?

My 8's engine has outlasted my Corolla's engine.



They fixed it for you, under warranty. That being said, if that really scared you about the car, you probably should move to something else that you can ignore...