View Poll Results: Have you flooded your Renesis?
YES
1,349
54.86%
NO
1,110
45.14%
Voters: 2459. You may not vote on this poll
Engine Flooding Info/Questions
#2001
Flooding is more than wet spark plugs, it's when liquid fuel gets trapped in the combustion chambers. Also remember you have 3 such chambers per rotor. The trick is to expel the excess fuel from all 3 chambers on both rotors, then dry the plugs, then start the car.
Beyond wet plugs, there may also be an issue with the trapped fuel causing the apex seals to not-seal, thus not getting any combustion chamber compression.
Beyond wet plugs, there may also be an issue with the trapped fuel causing the apex seals to not-seal, thus not getting any combustion chamber compression.
to properly expel the fuel, can I just remove all 4 spark plugs and crank the engine?
Is there any potential damage?
sorry for the basic question, I am new to rotary engine and I want to make sure I don't screw up something.
#2002
nah just set it on fire that should clear everything up lol what you do before that idk how bad your engine is flooded but take out the fuel pump fuzes crank the engine for about 30sec then put the fuzes back in and crank it up i would recommend using jumper cables or a jump pack thats what i do works every time
#2006
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Here in Kansas it has gotten to 10 below this winter and no flooding. It hasnt even flooded when I learned how to drive a stick and stalled it a couple times. It seems like a very quirky thing....
#2009
10,000 Revs in the Air!
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Well, I am in the same boat now. I just acquired a 2004 flooded RX8 with 155000 miles.
I can't believe how many posts/pages on this topic.
I am doing more research/reading right now...but if someone would like to take the time to answer these questions I would appreciate:
-I remove the spark plugs and the top ones (T) are the ones that are flooded.
The bottom ones (L) were pretty dry. Any reason for that?
-After I cleaned/dried and reinstalled the spark plugs, they get wet right away when I try to start the car. It's like the entire housing is filled with fuel...any reason for that?
thanks...
I can't believe how many posts/pages on this topic.
I am doing more research/reading right now...but if someone would like to take the time to answer these questions I would appreciate:
-I remove the spark plugs and the top ones (T) are the ones that are flooded.
The bottom ones (L) were pretty dry. Any reason for that?
-After I cleaned/dried and reinstalled the spark plugs, they get wet right away when I try to start the car. It's like the entire housing is filled with fuel...any reason for that?
thanks...
I've got a 2004 too and since I had the same problems you're having, all dealers were saying to try a hotter plug. Another one was take them out, heat them etc. As far as I could see it would work for the next start but it was a bullshit fob off!
The 2004 starter motor (Mazda part No. N3H1) isn't able to spin the engine fast enough in order to ignite the input fuel properly. This leads to the chambers being full of fuel.
Get yourself an upgraded starter motor (Mazda Part No. N3Z1) and your problems will be solved. This upgraded motor spins the engine 100RPM faster than the old one. I got one and I've never had any problems since. Starts first turn of the key every time no matter what.
#2011
I've got a 2004 too and since I had the same problems you're having, all dealers were saying to try a hotter plug. Another one was take them out, heat them etc. As far as I could see it would work for the next start but it was a bullshit fob off!
The 2004 starter motor (Mazda part No. N3H1) isn't able to spin the engine fast enough in order to ignite the input fuel properly. This leads to the chambers being full of fuel.
Get yourself an upgraded starter motor (Mazda Part No. N3Z1) and your problems will be solved. This upgraded motor spins the engine 100RPM faster than the old one. I got one and I've never had any problems since. Starts first turn of the key every time no matter what.
The 2004 starter motor (Mazda part No. N3H1) isn't able to spin the engine fast enough in order to ignite the input fuel properly. This leads to the chambers being full of fuel.
Get yourself an upgraded starter motor (Mazda Part No. N3Z1) and your problems will be solved. This upgraded motor spins the engine 100RPM faster than the old one. I got one and I've never had any problems since. Starts first turn of the key every time no matter what.
-Disconnect the e-shaft sensor
-Remove the fuel pump fuse (the yellow 20A)
-Remove all 4 plugs
-Connect the battery to my 4Runner
-Crank it
-Clean the spark plugs
-Put them back
-Put the fuse back
-Reconnect the e-shaft sensor
-Crank it.
Hope for the best.
It almost started yesterday but I suspect with 155000 miles the engine is pretty tired which does not help.
-Reconnect the e-shaft sensor
#2012
well still no luck. It came really close to starting a couple time since yesterday but not enough to keep going.
It looks like I have the updated starter.
I inherited of the car from my wife's aunt so I don't have much info on history.
She said the engine was making some strange noise and it looks like it was misfired.
I wish I had the right tool to check the compression here.
I am also wondering if changing the oil would help or if it's a waste of money.
It looks like I have the updated starter.
I inherited of the car from my wife's aunt so I don't have much info on history.
She said the engine was making some strange noise and it looks like it was misfired.
I wish I had the right tool to check the compression here.
I am also wondering if changing the oil would help or if it's a waste of money.
#2013
10,000 Revs in the Air!
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Sounds like you could have a compression issue. You should take it to either Mazda or your local garage and get a compression test done.
Also it would be a good idea to decarb the engine. Info on this here:
http://www.rotaryheaven.net/showthre...-Engine-decarb
Best of luck and I hope you get it running as soon as possible.
Also it would be a good idea to decarb the engine. Info on this here:
http://www.rotaryheaven.net/showthre...-Engine-decarb
Best of luck and I hope you get it running as soon as possible.
#2014
just take it to a mazda dealer tell them your car has a hard start and you feel a loss of power ask for a compression test... thats what i did and i really had a compression issue so they gave me the reman and installed a new clutch with no labor cost. make sure the problem isant your battery or starter tho if you have a compression issue trust me u will know
#2015
Has anyone tried running a lower octane fuel. I think that in cold weather the high test gas just doesn't ignite well enough. Since getting my sons running again, he has been using 89 octane. He says it runs better and the fuel mileage is MUCH better.
#2016
RX8 Engine Deflooding - a real solution
Ok...I am new to owning an RX8. My wife owned it before we met and of course I thought, "any woman that owns an RX8 has to be cool!" So, I introduced myself to her and here we are...fixing her RX8!
Coil packs gone bad (102,000 miles) so I always start with new wires first - $95 from the dealer, found for $85 at another dealer. Looked on line, WOW - $25, but not in stock for three weeks! Bought from dealer (OUCH) for $85. Wires didn't do the trick so off to the coil packs - $300+ from dealer, not this time! Ordered on line from California - $175 (Mazda original boxes and all). Tried to drive it before I got the coil packs in...big mistake! Flooded the freaking engine because I didn't warm it up - running very bad! So, get the coil packs in and install in 30 minutes (now that I know how to take it all apart to get in there). I'm stoked...can't wait to crank the girl - NOPE!! Sun of a mother loving....CRAP! This piece of Ford crap! I am ticked...so, I look on line at blogs "how to deflood" after Mazda tells me to take the plugs out and "blow out the excess gas" bull crap - doesn't work!!! The whole, take the fuel pump fuse out crap...NOPE, doesn't work. Then, my lovely wife looks on line and finds "washer fluid"....really!?? So, I pull the rubber caps off the "maintenance ports" on the intake (qty 2). Inject 10 CC of Mazda washer fluid in each port. NOPE, didn't work!! So read a thread on the same blog and someone mentioned oil because loss of compression is the reason it won't fire! Piston engines don't even think of such a thing - ether maybe! Ok, so I am at wits end and willing to try anything..I inject 10 cc of oil in each port. Surprise...she fires but doesn't stay running. SO I GO TO 30 CC IN EACH PORT!!! OH YEAHHHHH!!!!!!! SHE FIRES AND SMOKES THE WHOLE GARAGE AND DRIVEWAY UP, BUT SHE IS RUNNING!!!! BACK HER OUT AND TAKE HER FOR A LONG SPIN AROUND THE BLOCKS....BACK IN BUSINESS!! This is the only thing I have found to work flawlessly!! I might package this kit and sell it with 100 cc of oil (40 cc to spare) and guarantee it works!
Coil packs gone bad (102,000 miles) so I always start with new wires first - $95 from the dealer, found for $85 at another dealer. Looked on line, WOW - $25, but not in stock for three weeks! Bought from dealer (OUCH) for $85. Wires didn't do the trick so off to the coil packs - $300+ from dealer, not this time! Ordered on line from California - $175 (Mazda original boxes and all). Tried to drive it before I got the coil packs in...big mistake! Flooded the freaking engine because I didn't warm it up - running very bad! So, get the coil packs in and install in 30 minutes (now that I know how to take it all apart to get in there). I'm stoked...can't wait to crank the girl - NOPE!! Sun of a mother loving....CRAP! This piece of Ford crap! I am ticked...so, I look on line at blogs "how to deflood" after Mazda tells me to take the plugs out and "blow out the excess gas" bull crap - doesn't work!!! The whole, take the fuel pump fuse out crap...NOPE, doesn't work. Then, my lovely wife looks on line and finds "washer fluid"....really!?? So, I pull the rubber caps off the "maintenance ports" on the intake (qty 2). Inject 10 CC of Mazda washer fluid in each port. NOPE, didn't work!! So read a thread on the same blog and someone mentioned oil because loss of compression is the reason it won't fire! Piston engines don't even think of such a thing - ether maybe! Ok, so I am at wits end and willing to try anything..I inject 10 cc of oil in each port. Surprise...she fires but doesn't stay running. SO I GO TO 30 CC IN EACH PORT!!! OH YEAHHHHH!!!!!!! SHE FIRES AND SMOKES THE WHOLE GARAGE AND DRIVEWAY UP, BUT SHE IS RUNNING!!!! BACK HER OUT AND TAKE HER FOR A LONG SPIN AROUND THE BLOCKS....BACK IN BUSINESS!! This is the only thing I have found to work flawlessly!! I might package this kit and sell it with 100 cc of oil (40 cc to spare) and guarantee it works!
#2017
Inject oil in the maintenance ports on the intake. 30 cc of new oil will seal the rotors and provide compression. I just did it on my wife's 2004, MT. It is the only thing that worked. Taking the plugs out doesn't work!! Tried it and never worked for me - besides, injecting the oil is easy. Just remove the washer fluid reservoir (2 bolts), unplug connector and hose. Two rubber caps on small 1/8" long "****". Put tubing on each port (2-3 feet long) then get a 30cc plastic syringe or 10 cc syringe and add 30 cc of oil (5W-20 is what I used) into the intake. Fire the girl up!! It worked for me yesterday! Tried everything!
#2018
Thanks I will do that. In the meantime, I am going to try the following:
-Disconnect the e-shaft sensor
-Remove the fuel pump fuse (the yellow 20A)
-Remove all 4 plugs
-Connect the battery to my 4Runner
-Crank it
-Clean the spark plugs
-Put them back
-Put the fuse back
-Reconnect the e-shaft sensor
-Crank it.
Hope for the best.
It almost started yesterday but I suspect with 155000 miles the engine is pretty tired which does not help.
-Reconnect the e-shaft sensor
-Disconnect the e-shaft sensor
-Remove the fuel pump fuse (the yellow 20A)
-Remove all 4 plugs
-Connect the battery to my 4Runner
-Crank it
-Clean the spark plugs
-Put them back
-Put the fuse back
-Reconnect the e-shaft sensor
-Crank it.
Hope for the best.
It almost started yesterday but I suspect with 155000 miles the engine is pretty tired which does not help.
-Reconnect the e-shaft sensor
#2019
well still no luck. It came really close to starting a couple time since yesterday but not enough to keep going.
It looks like I have the updated starter.
I inherited of the car from my wife's aunt so I don't have much info on history.
She said the engine was making some strange noise and it looks like it was misfired.
I wish I had the right tool to check the compression here.
I am also wondering if changing the oil would help or if it's a waste of money.
It looks like I have the updated starter.
I inherited of the car from my wife's aunt so I don't have much info on history.
She said the engine was making some strange noise and it looks like it was misfired.
I wish I had the right tool to check the compression here.
I am also wondering if changing the oil would help or if it's a waste of money.
Let me know how it goes. Plugs should be OK. The hotter plug remarks are stupid! Iridium plugs (standard on RX8's) are the best on the market and NGK is top of the line Japanese plug.
#2021
Inject oil in the maintenance ports on the intake. 30 cc of new oil will seal the rotors and provide compression. I just did it on my wife's 2004, MT. It is the only thing that worked. Taking the plugs out doesn't work!! Tried it and never worked for me - besides, injecting the oil is easy. Just remove the washer fluid reservoir (2 bolts), unplug connector and hose. Two rubber caps on small 1/8" long "****". Put tubing on each port (2-3 feet long) then get a 30cc plastic syringe or 10 cc syringe and add 30 cc of oil (5W-20 is what I used) into the intake. Fire the girl up!! It worked for me yesterday! Tried everything!
Also I have new wires but not the coil. Is there anyway to test them?
#2022
i am not so sure about testing the coils but that is something you should change including the spark plugs and wires.....if you feel like your car has a hard start i would say an 80% chance that it has low compression and you can get a new engine but make sure it is not your battery starter first ..dont want to pay for a compression test
#2024
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So same thing just happened to me yesterday. Turned the thing off cold by accident and it wouldent restart. I knew my coil packs were going bad as it had been starting alittle hard. so bought new coil packs today and then decided to change the plugs too. when changing them found that some dumb *** at the dealer last time the plugs were changed put the trailing in the leading and vice versa. So long story short i have 104K on her and tried every flooding tecnique except the oil int he intake thing, I think shes done! any thoughts?
I should probably try the oil thing and if that doesent work then i guess i should do a comp check.
I should probably try the oil thing and if that doesent work then i guess i should do a comp check.
#2025
i have a thought for you if the plugs were done this way at the dealer sue thier *** take pics and demand that they do something to fix it put the blame on them somehow if you can and hopefully they will give you a reman or something but i am pretty sure your car isant screwd there are many things that could have got flooded mayb take it to the same dealer and have them clean it ...for free cuz they messed up i flooded my enine so bad last time they said that it was the worst case of flooding they had ever seen there was gas everywhere but they still managed to fix it