I bought my RX-8 in Dec. 2003 and heard of a few other owners that experienced flooding. It hadn't happened to me so I thought they were just having bad luck. Then I got to see it first hand. The dealer replaced the plugs and performed some other computer adjustment. After about eight months it happened again. Back to the dealer and adjusted to a higher CCA battery. It happened a third time in early 2006 and then not again until this month (1/2010). I had done nothing unusual except the car had not been drivene garage for about 3 weeks and the weather had been quite cold. The dealership told me that "Mazda said" that it was because I didn't know how to drive the car. I'm no Parnelli Jones but I have been driving for over fifty years including several sports cars and never had to be so particular about a routine task like starting the car. So far I've had no success in recovering from a flooded engine on my own. I appreciated the success story of Jaycee (I think) so I have something to try next time. And I do believe there will be a next time. Any more people who have recovered on their own?

yea push start you take the fuel pump fuse out crank for about 30-40 sec put fuse back in try and see if you car will start ....it should if not and your smart to get manual push start down a hill after cranking with no fuel pump fuse and either get that thing started or towed to the dealer it worked for me

Regarding driving the car, it needs to be pushed a bit. I suggest any run needs to have the engine up to at least 6,000 RPM at some stage. I know some drivers who never use 5th or 6th gear, except on expressways. I don't agree with this, as it's costs too much in fuel. I always give it a good rev in 2nd gear before getting to my destination to clean things out.

Never drive in too low a gear. If the engine is struggling at all, change down.

Ok, so just had my second flooding situation this morning. The first occurred many months ago and I fortunatley was able to get the car towed by Mazda to the dealership and revived, and they added new plugs (even though I just repaced them myself a couple of weeks prior to this) all free of charge under warranty. Is was a huge pain in the butt though not having a car even for one day. I followed the instructions of the mechanic to bring the RPMs above 4k for a few seconds prior to shut down when starting the car for short periods of time (especially when cold); this advice has worked great with no flooding problems until this morning.

Not wanting to go through the same towing/dealership scenario this morning, I was bound and determined to get it deflooded myself. Here is how I did it without moving the car:

I initally tried the self-deflooding steps found in the manual a few of times with no luck of course, however on the third try the engine did cough to life only to slump back into the flood a second later. I noticed that the battery was draining and that I would only be able to try one or twice more. So, I hooked up some jumper cables to my SUV thereby giving me unlimited power supply to the 8 while I tried the deflooding procedure over and over again. Well, it worked; after the 6th time I believe, it came to life with extra battery support.

Wanklehead - Interesting. I believe that the problem is basically a loss of compression due to iol dissolved from the seals. If it happens to me again, I'll immediately connect jumpers so I have plenty of grunt to turn it over. It might just make all the difference.

Hey Guys,

Update on my baby :( problem still persists

Yesterday I did go to the local mechanic shop to let them replaced Engine Mounts (2 of them), they also replaced IG coils, IG wires (they previously did replace the plug sparks, 3 weeks ago).

However !!!! Last night, before I went to the gym, I started the car and the Engine sing was blinking and rough idle in the low rpm btw 1000 -750 rpm I thought that it needs IG coils and wires stuffs so I didn't worry about it too much, the car warm up and I drove to the gym then I drove back (of course the engine sign was on), then when I was approaching the parking lot at my apt, I hit the break paddle and the rpm went down and the car liked losing power and the rpm keep going down under 500 rpm then the engine just shut down!! and I try to start the car again but I could not then I tried 3-4 more times, still not, then I wait in my car for about 10 mins and start then I could but the idle was rough in btw 1000 rpm to 750 rpm, so Any Clues ???????

So I think positive that it was those things, since I will replace them this morning anyway.

Then the mechanics told me this morning that it was the misfire code (Hurrr again !!!!) and they have no clue, Then After that they changed IG coils, wires, mounts. Then I drove home and then happen again ENGINE shut down!!!! and wait 10 mins to start it up.

When I started up the first time after the mechanic shop the idel was very rough it kept flicker up down 1500 rpm and 1000 rpm and the Engine had a noise but i couldn't catch what it was.

Any Clues ???????? Thanks!!!!!

So headache !!! Going to take tylenol and sleep now

I've had my 2004 8 for the past 2 years. From the day I test drove it I had trouble starting it. It was always hit and miss on how long it would take before the engine would kick in. If I drove it at a moderate speed for 9 miles, parked up and went into a store, it never started when I came out. I changed the plugs 5 times since I got the car, coils once, leads once and battery twice. These never made any difference at all.

Just this weekend I did what I should have done 2 years ago. I upgraded the starter motor. I cannot believe how brilliantly it starts now. One turn of the key and the engine kicks in in less than 2 seconds EVERY time! I've even driven it really hard, turned it off and straight on again and it kicks into life straight away. Haven't had any flooding or starting problems since and it sounds 1000 times better. No horrible, slow, weak cranking, just a sound that is VERY similar to that of the Lambo Gallarado crank.

The upgraded starter is the way to go :)

Dorayee, did they clear your CEL after they replaced the parts???

For everyone with a 2004 or early 2005 model, check your vehicle's maintenance history to make sure you have:

- upgraded battery
- upgraded starter
- upgraded plugs
- latest PCM flash

The first three changes werer phased into production over time. IIRC, RX-8s with an April 2005 build date or later have the updated battery/starter/plugs.

ive done some searching and an upgraded starter is about $300 anyone know where to get one cheaper and anyone have any suggestions on a good battery for the rx8??

Another option here.

You wanted a cheaper option. You can call to confirm that it's a reman of an upgraded starter (not an original 2004 unit).

thanks for the link whats the price look like for the yellow top i got 150??

Hey kingaaron,

They did clear the CEL and he said it's the misfire code, and he didn't how since I replaced the spark plugs 3 weeks ago, IG coils and Wires last Friday.

RIWWP suggested that it might be the CAT so I schedule the new mechanic to check it for me this Thursday so will see, I already bought the used one in case. My previous mechanic insisted to pull out the CAT to check, he said no code for it. But on that Friday after he replaced the IG coils, Wires, Engine mounts, My car still got the rough idle (no engine sign or blink yet) but the car did die (stall and shut down) after I drove up hill for like 15mins and 10-15 mins later It did start again. Any clue kingaaron? Happen to you too?

Also Before last Friday (2 weeks ago), I did went to the mazda dealer to check, though the misfire code was cleared by that mechanics, he replaced the spark plugs for me 3 weeks ago, so Mazda dealer run some tests and find nothing wrong with the car except he said you need the engine mounts that's what you got the engine vibration from.

https://www.rx8club.com/ne-rx-8-forum-29/engine-vibrate-almost-shut-down-when-its-low-rpm-189644/

Hey,

As I went to see a new friendly mechanic this morning, and found the source of the problem (this guy used to work w/ RX7 before at NJ area, now he moved to Central NY).

The problem is not the CAT clogged/failing but it's a vacuum leak !! he used a spray bottle to trace it and he said the most likely would be in the nozzle intake before to the Rotor engine, whenever he spray in that area the idle of the car changing so he would say i would need a ring gasket in that .... Anyone experience like this ???? and What part I am looking to replace/order ???

PS: Engine CEL Code, P2096 --- CAT runs lean ---> vacuum leak
P3000, P3001 , misfire random misfire, rotor #1 misfire

He said you got the low rough idle and stall engine at the stop sign/when you hit the break to slow the car........ ====> All these are from your VACUMM LEAK !!!!!

Thanks Guys!! Let me know what part i am looking to replace, def some people on this board would go to the same experiences as I did.

Where can I get an "upgraded" starter?

http://www.mazdarotaryparts.com/bfe-...orb-1469-p.asp

That's your best bet as it's a helluva lot cheaper than the Mazda OEM one if you want to buy new.

Had a big flooding problem. Wouldn't start, dealership did two days of work to get it going, I was thinking "new motor." It runs ok now but I'm still concerned.
Apparently I was driving it too conservatively, "wind it out in all gears" was what I heard from several sources.
Mazda doesn't tell ya that stuff when you're shopping.

Since I installed the upgraded starter, I haven't had an ounce of trouble with flooding or the hard-to-start issue. I can start it cold, turn it off straight away and start it again and it's grand. Mine is a 2004, maybe installing the upgraded starter is the solution to everyone's problems???

flooding
 

[QUOTE Every morning I take the car out of the garage, then I turn it off and start it again 2-3 minutes later when I'm ready to leave for work. That's been going on for the 5-6 weeks since I bought the car and it hasn't flooded once. I don't know why people think this is a problem.


BECAUSE IT IS. IF YOU KEEP DOING IT, YOU WILL LIKELY HAVE PROBLEMS.

florida.
Yup.

One thing to add. After a Flood, follow the procedure here.

https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.p...ight=ecu+reset

Everything that goes on in the flood, clear, start, barf crap out exhaust, limp along until cleared, can confuse the heck out of the ECU and car will not run quite right. This will solve.

Thank you Teknics.

The problem is not actually flooding - apparently it's the excess petrol dissolving the oil in the seals. This probably takes some time. You're more likely to see the problem if you park the car outside the garage, and let the engine go cold. Then move it into the garage, with the engine running for about a minute. Next morning you're stonkered.

Well, I am in the same boat now. I just acquired a 2004 flooded RX8 with 155000 miles.
I can't believe how many posts/pages on this topic.

I am doing more research/reading right now...but if someone would like to take the time to answer these questions I would appreciate:

-I remove the spark plugs and the top ones (T) are the ones that are flooded.
The bottom ones (L) were pretty dry. Any reason for that?

-After I cleaned/dried and reinstalled the spark plugs, they get wet right away when I try to start the car. It's like the entire housing is filled with fuel...any reason for that?

thanks...

Flooding is more than wet spark plugs, it's when liquid fuel gets trapped in the combustion chambers. Also remember you have 3 such chambers per rotor. The trick is to expel the excess fuel from all 3 chambers on both rotors, then dry the plugs, then start the car.

Beyond wet plugs, there may also be an issue with the trapped fuel causing the apex seals to not-seal, thus not getting any combustion chamber compression.